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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, a few weeks ago I picked up a 2002 or 2003 KLR 650 for $1,200. I was under the impression the only thing the bike needed was a new ignition switch and gas cap as the original owner lost the key to the bike. It sat for 2 years so I cleaned the fuel tank and carb when I brought it home.

I ordered a new ignition switch and fuel cap for it. When I hooked the ignition switch up, I put some gas in just for it to start. No fire up or spark. But, it cranks/ turns over fine.

I ordered and changed the coil, still no spark. Now, I'm leaning towards it could be the CDI or Stator? Can I be pointed in the right direction what would be causing the bike to not have spark?
 

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If you used a cheap NON-OEM ignition switch other owners have found the wires incorrectly inserted into the multi plug.
Use the Search Community bar. I think member @campfire has corrected wire re-positioning post or thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you used a cheap NON-OEM ignition switch other owners have found the wires incorrectly inserted into the multi plug.
Use the Search Community bar. I think member @campfire has corrected wire re-positioning post or thread.
I got a Caltric ignition switch. Couldn't I just swap the wires from the original to the replacement?
 

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If you used a cheap NON-OEM ignition switch other owners have found the wires incorrectly inserted into the multi plug.
Use the Search Community bar. I think member @campfire has corrected wire re-positioning post or thread.
Sorry, I've never rewired the ignition switch, but I have by-passed the clutch & kickstand switches.
If it cranks with the new switch installed that means that power is getting through it.
If you have, or can get a Multi Meter or good electronic probe, check for voltage at the CDI. Sitting that long I would start looking at connections at all the major places.
Do you have a manual to trace out the wires with?
Or even start by taking the electrical portion of the old switch out and try that a simple check of that new switch.

Good luck, we're here to try and help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry, I've never rewired the ignition switch, but I have by-passed the clutch & kickstand switches.
If it cranks with the new switch installed that means that power is getting through it.
If you have, or can get a Multi Meter or good electronic probe, check for voltage at the CDI. Sitting that long I would start looking at connections at all the major places.
Do you have a manual to trace out the wires with?
Or even start by taking the electrical portion of the old switch out and try that a simple check of that new switch.

Good luck, we're here to try and help.
Yeah it cranks over, just no spark
 

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When you say no spark, do you mean it won't fire when turning over
or
that you have removed the spark plug lead, inserted a spare plug, grounded it and checked to see if it sparks when turning the motor over?

As with any fault finding, it is usually a matter of elimination steps.
I know that a lot of people "clean" their carbs but fail to clean every fuel passage due to a lack of knowledge that they exist.
 

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Sorry! It was member @foo that re-connected the multi plug Correctly.
 

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I'll suggest that you need to invest in a Clymer Service Manual for your age of bike & an analog (dial type) Volt-Ohm-Amp meter from Radio Shack or auto parts store & learn how to use them both. Quit simply Throwing money AT it.

Your bike could have damaged ignition system wires near the engine sprocket or mice could have chewed on some, anywheres above there. Learn to accurately test the individual components first before replacing anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you used a cheap NON-OEM ignition switch other owners have found the wires incorrectly inserted into the multi plug.
Use the Search Community bar. I think member @campfire has corrected wire re-positioning post or thread.
The ignition switch were indeed incorrectly inserted. I referenced and corrected the wiring. She has spark now
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good news. I corrected the wiring in the ignition switch and she had spark so I put the fuel tank on, poured just enough gas to start and she fired up.

But, it won't fire up without the choke on and when it starts, it won't stay running for more than 10 seconds at best. With that said, I'm leaning towards the carburetor is in question. As I said, she has spark and will start.
 

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Btw, on the carburetor. There is a grey fitting. What is it and where does it go?
The Gray plastic fitting on upper front LH of the carb is the float bowl atmospheric air vent. It used to have a translucent pink hose attached to it which ought to go up & over the frame & then route back down between air box & rear shock adjuster. It must NOT be capped or kinked or plugged or submerged under water!

And yes, your carburetor now needs to be thoroughly cleaned.
Read & view here, KLR Keihin CVK40 carb Explained video

And here, "Care And Feeding Of The CVK40"

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
New carb arrived today. Installed it.

She lives. Choke is only needed to start up until she's warmed up, then will start up fine without it. I was hoping to be able to upload a video. But, it needs a few carb adjustment and definetly need new brake pads
 
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