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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, I have a problem which someone with more experience than I may have encountered. I have a 2008 KLR 650. 35000+ miles. The bike shut off when I made a hard left hand turn into a parking lot. Got back my garage and recreated the bike shutting off while stationary. Bike would crank when handle bars were back 'centered'. Saw a similar thread on the Forum and started trouble shooting the 'choke cable' binding the CDI. Now the bike won't start at all. I've checked wiring connections, all ok. Installed new key switch. Fuses are good. Electrics come on, horn blows, no power to the starter. Before I take the bike to the dealer, I'd like some advice....Thanks in advance and my thanks to the Forum.
 

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Which fuses are good? Including the 20 amp one Under the starter Solenoid, on Gen 2 units?
 

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Kick stand down? Kill switch Off? Try it with clutch NOT squeezed, neutral, kick-stand up.
 

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I was just kidding about the Spare Fuse Under the starter relay. I can read that the Main fuse under the RED Connector is good, "the horn blows".
 

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Can you hear and Feel a single 'CLICK' from the starter solenoid each time you depress the starter button or not?

One more posting and this thread may move to "RECENT Discussions" and get more input.
 

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I can't do klr650.darknet, Glenn & I don't get along. But I didn't find you over there anyways.

Too many sites and too much BS on Facebook to even attempt to look for your issue. I can see that you are still 'logged-in'. See if this wakes things up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Kick Stand is up and I have inspected this 'kill switch'. All ok there. 'Kill Switch' in the handlebar is in the correct position. Neutral light is on when I turn the key.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No clicking at all. Press the starter button, nothing. All instrument panel lights are on and the horn blows.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All fuses are good. Visual inspection shows no 'burn through'. Is it possible that the fuse appears to be intact but isn't?
 

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Do You get ONE click from the starter solenoid each time that you depress the starter button? Or multiple clicks from it?
 

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Then you may not have any 12V power reaching the starter button. Do you have a VOA Multi-Meter? Or a 12V test light?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update: I disconnected the wiring harness junction which goes to the cut-off switch and the horn. I used a multi-meter to test for continuity of the wiring. I did not get any indications from the meter. I took the 'kill switch/horn' unit apart and identified the correct color of wiring going to the switch and tested continuity again. Negative results. I pulled the wiring up and out of the harness holding points and inspected the sheathing. I found a tear. I split the sheathing at the tear site and discovered a repair/splice using electricians tape on two wires. One of the wires fell apart. I will repair the splice and test the circuit.
 

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I had the very same problem on a Honda XR250. The wiring to the kill switch was getting pinched in the steering stop and grounding out every time I hit the stop when turning left. Taped up the wire and secured it out of the way. Problem solved.
 
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