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Discussion Starter #1
Am familiar with some of the differences between the "C" and the "A" model but generally speaking you don't see many "C" models around here. Local salvage yard is parting out a KLR 650 C model. All they say is that is has a "broken head" whatever that means. I asked for a price for the entire bike.

So in anticipation on getting a favourable price just wondering if there are any engine differences between the "C" and the "A". I understand that the carb is a little different but other than that I'm thinking it's the same. My intent would be to do a complete engine swap or head replacement. It's a 2002 model KLR 650 C.

Thanks for any input.
 

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If I recall correctly, the carb is like the Aussie carb. It has that coolant circulation going on.

Drop an "A" model carb on it and use the ports on the head and water pump to build a bypass. Or just build the bypass. Or just plug it up.

Don't know if that system is troublesome; never heard anything along those lines.

A "C" is a variant I'd love to have.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got a price back from the salvage yard of $1000. I haven't seen the bike so don't know if that's reasonable or not. I thought it was a little on the high side considering it won't run without major work. I assume that's why it ended up there in the first place. Repairs cost more than the bike is worth. I'm trying to find out what exactly they mean by "broken head". If it has been run low on oil it may be more than that. Don't want to invest more than it's actually worth but I sure would like to have the bike. A rebuilt head would run around $1000 CDN by the time I had it in hand. From the salvage side the only things I see that might fetch some money is the forks and the wheels and the front brakes. After that you'll have a hard time getting rid of the stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Some more details from the salvage yard. I'm going to say that the head is definitely pooched based on this. Would I still be safe to use the old cams in a new head?

This is the response to the question I asked:

the cam holder broke on head side, on exhaust cam, looks like who ever did last valve adjustment did not torque the bolts. the cams do look okay.
 

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I don't see why not if the cams don't look damaged klr4evr. Is that a Tengi? I can't remember the designation.
Regards....General JustJeff
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
No Jeff the Tengai is a "b" model. Love to grab one of those.

This is a "C"

 

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IF it's in a scrapper I would check if it's been hit anywhere, the frames twist extremely easily. The gas tank mounts are all different and the european tank is useless for us who do not have a gas station every 5 miles or so. The carb should be easily swapped to an A version. as for the internals, I can't say 100% but would think the lower end is identical to ours....if anything the cams may have been slightly tweeked? BUT IF the head is junk the bike is worth tops $500 imho.....like you said, engine complete is worth so much, the front forks if good are so much and wheels if good so much the rest is junk wieght! I have tried to part two now, never again! I have only ridden with one once way back, he complained about it and wanted to swap out the seat and tank but couldn't figure it out or wish to pay for it to be done. it's cosmetically different so all attachment points may be diffeent like the tank and seat....something to think about?
$500 is the top dollar I would give them......just tell them where else are they going to sell it? Non-working engine is a total risk imho, nothing fits our bikes...so they are left with front forks and two wheels....maybe...take it or leave it.
:stickpoke:
 

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Some more details from the salvage yard. I'm going to say that the head is definitely pooched based on this. Would I still be safe to use the old cams in a new head?

This is the response to the question I asked:

the cam holder broke on head side, on exhaust cam, looks like who ever did last valve adjustment did not torque the bolts. the cams do look okay.
Hello 'Willys'. Good to read a posting from you.

klr4evr,
I tried to post about this bike back when. Had it all typed out, previewed, ready to submit, hit the 'Submit' button and fizzelled-out! Dang it. Went home.

I'll guess the PO broke the 'guide channel' off of the LH exhaust bearing cap. If all the pieces are still there, have it welded back together. If the outer flange is missing, have a machinist weld it up and mill a guide back into it. The guide does not have to be perfect, doesn't even have to be very strong. But it does need to be there!

If some bonehead thru the broken parts away, purchase 2 or 3 caps ONLY, off of E-bay. Chances are 1 will fit the dowel pins and have 'enough' clearance. Check the clearance with 3 strips of "Plastigage" all at once. Position them at 10,12 and 2 o'clock.
Minimum clearance at any position, .030mm or about .0012 inches. Maximum clearance at any position, .15mm, yes that is correct .006 inches. Yea, that is a little sloppy, it is a KLR after all!

All the cam journal loading is "UP", and only when the valves are open.
But maybe the bike or part of its parts are already 'Gone'! Sorry!
 

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I agree they do look much nicer than the typical A version we get....closer to the DR650 looks imho.....can't say that looks better than a KLR but you know what i mean, more dirt bikish...lol
:Tongue2:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
To update. I more or less abandoned the idea of saving this bike primarily because I haven't been able to find a head for it. That's likely the reason it is where it is. I did contact EagleMike who basically gave me similar info to that mentioned, and that he could repair the head if the damage wasn't excessive. Shipping it back and forth though wouldn't be practical. I haven't had an opportunity to go and see the bike. As was mentioned I feel a price of $500 is the most it is worth in it's current state. I'm not much into bargaining and felt that we were just too far apart on the worth. By the time I fixed the bike I would have spent more than what a running KLR sells for of that vintage. I've parted a Goldwing 1000 in the past and the hassles just aren't worth it. Got so tired of the parts hanging around that I finally just chucked them and swore I wouldn't do it again.

Thanks for the input. I'll keep looking for my project.

.
 
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Too bad, that was a cool scoot! I agree, $1000 for a bike needing fairly major repair is kinda steep... Unless you just happened to have a donor bike already behind the garage or something!

I'm on the lookout for a cheap Cub (Passport) to redo one of these days. Passed on a nice one at Recycle last summer for only $500 and it looked mostly complete. Failing that I'll probably get a CT90. Just something simple and easy to work on that I can tool around on a bit when it's finished. I have a soft for the old Honda singles... Or maybe I'm just soft in the head, not sure?
 

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Stew I'm also after an old Honda 90 or similar just to repair and ride around the block on.....something very very cheap for obvious reasons...lol Oh and it has to have an ownership...I would eventually possibly completely redesign it once I got it road worthy.
Something like the perfect Zombie type bike...lol. Yes I watch TWD...lol
:character00201:


Because a KLR isn't the perfect machine for the job, far too heavy, drinks too much and well I care about it.....lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Damn Stew. Back off. I've been looking for a good CT 90 for a couple of years now with no luck. Mostly basket cases. Used to ride one around on my lunch breaks when I first started working at the Prov. Parks Shop after getting out of high school. Now I want one.
 
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I'll take a basket case that is rebuildable with paperwork!...All I can see around here is someone offering serious coin for them and then the rediculous prices for running good machines.....seems we are far behind the curve on this one!
A veru good one fetches more cash than a similar KLR!!!!
 
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