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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,



First up -- confession: I'm not a KLR owner. I have a DRZ400SM that I'm putting the CVK40 carb in from yall's KLRs...what can I say, it's a good carb off a good bike!


The trouble is the choke plunger...they're kinda spendy.
The compatible parts that I've found are

16016-0013
16016-1068
16016-1085

(based on ADVRider, TT, here, and KLR650 net)

However, on RonAyers, there's a whole HOST of Kawasaki 16016 parts....
including some that sell slightly cheaper on the eBays.

Obviously I want to buy one of the cheaper ones BUT...
I don't know which of the 16016 series is compatible with the KLR carb.

Does anyone have any input about what other choke plungers / starters are compatible in this role?
 

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Why not try a Harley CV40 choke plunger?

I have a Harley "shorty" choke cable (Drag Specialties); works fine on a Kawasaki CVK40 carb from the "pull" end; the plunger may be identical.

Just to clarify: Keihin Harley carb: CV40
Keihin Kawasaki carb: CVK40

Similar, many interchangeable parts, except . . . CV40 has accelerator pump, CVK40 does not. Other differences may exist.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hey Damocles!

I thought of that, but the 12" whip or so would be a nightmare to deal with.
The carb isn't so buried on a DRZ... it's just kinda right there, so the Harley choke setup would kinda of hang off the bike pretty oddly--unless I could mount it somewhere...

I'd heard about the model differences... I know the airbox mount
is totally different on the CV vs the CVK.
I do wonder if the pumper CV would be a nicer upgrade on the little DRZ...

thanks for the thought!!
 

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hey Damocles!

I thought of that, but the 12" whip or so would be a nightmare to deal with.
The carb isn't so buried on a DRZ... it's just kinda right there, so the Harley choke setup would kinda of hang off the bike pretty oddly--unless I could mount it somewhere...

I'd heard about the model differences... I know the airbox mount
is totally different on the CV vs the CVK.
I do wonder if the pumper CV would be a nicer upgrade on the little DRZ...

thanks for the thought!!
Ain't no thang about the Shorty cable, rogueguineapig:



I trimmed the stem (knob permanently attached) because I wanted less outboard projection, then threaded for a screw-on knob; drilled a hole in the kickstand switch cover and wound up with this:



Not trying to proselytize you on the Shorty "choke" cable (although it's convenient, doesn't interfere with the legs, and eliminates the troublesome elbow near the attachment point with the carb); I just mentioned: The KLR enricher plunger fit the Harley cable like it was made for it, suggesting to me the Harley (CV40) plunger might work with a KLR, at considerably less cost than a "genuine" Kawasaki part.

Best wishes!
 

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That yardstick looks like a collector's item.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Montgomery Ward... methinks I've fired one of their fine weapons at some point in the past...

So I've attached a photo of the DRZs current carb (the KLR CVK will sit in the same spot)
and I think you can kinda make out my dilemma about the cabled choke plunger.
I'm certainly not against it by any means... but my understanding is that it would cost
about the same as a 16016 part, but create an interesting issue because of the length.
Literally add an inch (or 25.4mm if you prefer) to the existing plunger and it's sticking out well past the frame/plastics, etc.
That's what I'm running into. :(
I really like the way you implemented yours though...that looks great!

 

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So I've attached a photo of the DRZs current carb (the KLR CVK will sit in the same spot)
and I think you can kinda make out my dilemma about the cabled choke plunger.
I'm certainly not against it by any means... but my understanding is that it would cost
about the same as a 16016 part, but create an interesting issue because of the length.
Silly me; I somehow didn't catch the fact you're considering 'implanting" a CVK40 on a DR or DRZ or something; I was blinded by KLRiana!

Maybe you mentioned it, and I overlooked it, but . . . what's the advantage of a CVK40 to Suzuki stock carbs? EDIT: Just re-read first post on thread; isn't a 40 mm venturi somewhat outsized? Maybe not; what was OEM venturi diameter? 34 mm?

Regardless, Harley CV40 parts generally cost less than Kawasaki CVK40 parts, even though they may be identical.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
haha no worries!!

I'm not sure about exact diameters...it is supposed to be a tight but doable fit.
A lot of the DRZ-heads (Zed-heads?) over at ThumperTalk have done it actually.
At my altitude (Phx) they usually open up the airbox with a 3x3 and do a 148MJ and a 40 or 42 PJ.
The needle gets washered up, or set to the 3rd notch usually.
It's been a long time since I saw dyno numbers, but it does give a nice kick to the mid-and-upper range HP,
and the low range benefits from a lot better responsiveness after the slide gets drilled out a tad.
It's a nice upgrade from stock, and while not as much punch as a Keihin FCR, it's also about $300-400 less, which is nice.
Just one more way to squeeze a little more hooligan out of the DRZ. :)
 

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Ain't no thang about the Shorty cable, rogueguineapig:



I trimmed the stem (knob permanently attached) because I wanted less outboard projection, then threaded for a screw-on knob; drilled a hole in the kickstand switch cover and wound up with this:



Not trying to proselytize you on the Shorty "choke" cable (although it's convenient, doesn't interfere with the legs, and eliminates the troublesome elbow near the attachment point with the carb); I just mentioned: The KLR enricher plunger fit the Harley cable like it was made for it, suggesting to me the Harley (CV40) plunger might work with a KLR, at considerably less cost than a "genuine" Kawasaki part.

Best wishes!
I would like to understand a little better how you are shortening the Sportster enricher cable for use directly off the side of a KLR carburetor.

I need to replace a couple of wide gen2 light/turn/horn/enricher fixtures with a thinner aftermarket light/turn/horn only fixtures so I can add additional rear brake levers next to the clutch levers.

It appears to me that I only need about five inches total from the side of the carb to the enricher knob. This includes the little automatic failure plastic couplings which I have replaced with metal ones. Is it necessary to modify the lengths of both the sheath and the inner cable for this short distance?
 

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I would like to understand a little better how you are shortening the Sportster enricher cable for use directly off the side of a KLR carburetor.

I need to replace a couple of wide gen2 light/turn/horn/enricher fixtures with a thinner aftermarket light/turn/horn only fixtures so I can add additional rear brake levers next to the clutch levers.

It appears to me that I only need about five inches total from the side of the carb to the enricher knob. This includes the little automatic failure plastic couplings which I have replaced with metal ones. Is it necessary to modify the lengths of both the sheath and the inner cable for this short distance?
I did NOT shorten the cable itself; while the cable remains longer than it need be, it quietly coils loosely between the knob and the carb.

I only shortened the STEM of the cable assembly, threaded the stem stub, and screwed on a threaded knob. The original projection from the sidestand switch cover was greater than I cared for, although the setup worked fine.

A more elegant solution, instead of drilling the sidestand switch cover, would have been to fabricate a metal BRACKET to anchor the cable. Then, the bracket could be located to optimize the distance from the carb, given the length of the cable.

Even MORE elegant, I suppose, would be shortening the cable (and sheath) to an ideal length. That task, however, remains in the, "TOO HARD" box for my skills and capability!

Perspective may be a little hard to grasp, but here's the original (permanently-mounted) "choke" knob, sticking out from the sidestand switch cover:





Didn't like it, so . . . with Mr. Moto Tool's cut-off wheel, shortened the cable stem and jettisoned the original knob. Threaded the shaft, and screwed on the replacement knob shown:





Final result:





I'm satisfied with the mod; the choke knob is easily reached by the rider from the saddle, in riding position (not as much bending and groping as the KLX choke control might require); tension is adjustable, for partial application (better, I'm sure, with a proper metal bracket), and--has worked satisfactorily for a few years.

Let us know how you make out with your control modifications on the Generation 2!
 
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