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Discussion Starter #1
On my 09 kawasaki Klr I've been having some electrical problems, mainly my speedo and tachometer are not lighting up. I also noticed that when I put the kick stand down that it does not shut off the bike. I read about "electrical armoring" basically covering wear spots on wiring with electrical tape. Think this could be a problem with some of my electrical issues?
 

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That can never be a goodthing. My son has a Harley Nightster that blew the main fuse.
A wire from the switch was testing against the head. From the heat and vibration it wore off the insulation and shorted out. Electrical tape fixed the issue to get him home.
I went to Radio Shack and grabbed a small package of wire wrap. 8 inches installed in seconds and did the trick.
It is available in a variety of colors.
 

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On my 09 kawasaki Klr I've been having some electrical problems, mainly my speedo and tachometer are not lighting up. I also noticed that when I put the kick stand down that it does not shut off the bike. I read about "electrical armoring" basically covering wear spots on wiring with electrical tape. Think this could be a problem with some of my electrical issues?
Electrical shorting is not likely the problem with your lights because a short that would kill the dash lights would blow a fuse. When lights don't work the first thing I suspect is the bulbs. Have you checked the dash light bulbs?

If the engine continues to run IN GEAR when the stand is down, the neutral switch light green wire or the side stand switch light green wire is shorted to ground either accidentally or intentionally. Any chance a previous owner jumped out the stand switch intentionally due to intermittent operation of the switch?
 

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I have not checked the bulbs yet, I am going to tear into it this weekend and see, my guess is that the speedo and the tachometer share a common ground so that will be what I look at first. If everything seems fine their ill check the bulbs. But the rest of the dash lights, nuetral light, high beem indicator, all work fine. While i have it apart I'll check wiring wear spots and see what I can do to fix that, if their are any.
 

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I have not checked the bulbs yet, I am going to tear into it this weekend and see, my guess is that the speedo and the tachometer share a common ground so that will be what I look at first. If everything seems fine their ill check the bulbs. But the rest of the dash lights, nuetral light, high beem indicator, all work fine. While i have it apart I'll check wiring wear spots and see what I can do to fix that, if their are any.
They do share a common ground along with several other dash lights. If the ground were bad, the other dash lights would be out too.

Here is another diagram that might help you. I keep a copy of it on waterproof paper in the pouch with my proof of insurance. It saved my bacon one dark night 2,000 miles from home. http://www.klr650.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26023&d=1251918868
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good to know, Is there any immediate way to tell if the groundings are bad? im going to start taking off panels to get to the dash wiring Saturday or sunday.
 

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As I said above the THREE meter lights including speedometer and tachtach lights in addition to the temp and tachometer gauges (the instruments not the lights) and high beam indicator lights all share a common ground wire to the dash. If that wire had a bad connection, all the above would be off. If you had a loose ground problem, it would have to be two separate problems in the short individual Black/Yellow ground wires going to the two individual lights that are out.

The THREE meter lights are served by a single RED 12 volt power wire that does not serve other devices. If that wire were "open"/ broken those the THREE meter lights only would be off.

I can't make a case for a shorted wire causing your problem. If a ground wire is shorted to ground, it is still ground. If hot wire is shorted to ground, it would blow a fuse and take out everything served by the fuse.

In the wiring diagram I linked above, look at the upper left hand corner and you will see the THREE meter lights and the other dash devices. The Black/Yellow wire is the common ground wire throughout the entire wiring harness of the KLR.

Once you have the back of the dash exposed it is easiest to pull the THREE dash light bulbs out from the back and see if they are burned out. Each of the sockets holding the bulbs has two wires (Red 12 volt power and Black/Yellow ground). You can pull the socket from the back of the dash and then pull the bulb from the socket. You can also check for 12 volts between the two contacts in the socket. Don't short between the contacts or you will blow a fuse.
 

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The dash bulbs seem finicky. I replaced mine with LEDs and they were good for a year or more, but now one of them will occasionally flicker. No big deal as I seldomly ride at night. I can still see the dash just fine at night.
Since the PO did those mods to your bike I'm sure he disabled the sidestand switch. That's a good thing.
 

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A quick test of the wiring to any dash bulb is to move a bulb that is working -maybe the neutral light - to the socket of a bulb that is not working. If the relocated bulb still works in another socket, the socketis good.

Savage has a good point above. The vibrations in single cylinder motors seem to cause light bulbs to burn out quicker than the same bulb would in a car. I replaced all my dash lights and my brake/tail light with LED bulbs at around 20,000 miles and have not had a failure in the next 80,000 miles.

For my gen2 KLRs all the dash lights are 194 type miniature wedge base type lights.
I use LEDs from http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/miniature-wedge-base/ because the LEDs stand up to the vibration and don't burn out as quickly as incandescent bulbs.

For the three instrument panel illumination lights I use 194 LED Bulb - 5 LED Wide Angle Wedge Base bulb #WLED-CW5. The radial arrangement of the individual LEDs gives a good spread of the light across the instrument panel.

For the green turn signal indicator I use a 6 lamp green 194 LED Bulb - 6 LED Wedge Base bulb #WLED-G6. The narrow 35 degree focus aims all the light at the green lens and the green color doesn't waste light in the green filter lens. I like for my turn signal indicator to be as bright as possible to keep me from driving down the road with a signal flashing. It is a non-polarized bulb, so it works fine for both left and right turns.

For the blue high beam light indicator I don't want so much light because it is easy to see the indicator at night and a really bright light is distracting at night when I use the high beam. I use a 4 lamp blue narrow focus 194 LED Bulb - 4 LED Wedge Base bulb #WLED-B4-32. Next time I may use the wide angle WLED-B4-90 to wast some of the high beam light and make the indicator a little dimmer.

For the neutral light I use the same LED as for the high beam except in a green color bulb #WLED-G4-32.

All these LED are non-polarized and have multiple individual small LED lamps in them so if one little lamp burns out, the others continue to work.

You could use a dimmer single lamp bulb for the neutral and high beam indicators, but if it burns out, it is completely out.

I have not seen a need to replace the four turn signal bulbs with LEDs because they are so seldom on and when they are on they are on only half the time and I have never had one burn out in over 100K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It turned out that both of the lights for the dash had gone bad, bought two new bulbs and it's working great.
 
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