Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need some Help KLR is having serious engine trouble I've been told a lot of things that could be wrong. In hopes it was a failed balance tensioner I just did that tonight. Only to find the doohickey had already been moded and the spring was fine. I found a loose piece of plastic and metal around the sump in the left side engine near the sump. Also alot of metal flake at the oil filter. Any guesses? Seems like it actually might be bottom end ! Help ME!
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,842 Posts
I think that I see a miss-placed flywheel woodruff key and a Black Plastic unknown square.

Have you drained your engine oil? If so, how much did you drain out?

First place to look for source of metal flack found on oil filter is the RH Exhaust camshaft bearing, especially if one drained less than 1 quart of oil out of engine!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Shit that's the woodruff key? Was wondering what the Grove was for on the inside of the flywheel is that where this piece goes? Also there was some clear scraping in the left side engine cover from the balancer chain and even after adjusting the tensioner the chain still seemed to be in direct contact with the case WTF! Is the chain worn out? What did I do
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Also the black plastic looked the same as the chain guides in the motor, but I wasn't able to find anywhere it had broken
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,842 Posts
If the flywheel was not Real Close to properly indexed on last assembly it would not have run well, if at all. Did you drop the woodruff key?

What is the actual problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Bike ran like crap then one day made a loud noise at high rpm , then rpm dropped off and immediately picked back up. Has had some nasty vibrations and rpm drop under acceleration sounds terrible alot of klacking and knocky noise. Could this be a Head issue, I'm starting to suspect it may be bottom end. How do I correctly line up the flywheel with woodruff key and get the timing right in the left side of side of engine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Will be taking back apart and installing woodruff key tomorrow and also looking at the camshafts and journals for damage. HELP ME
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
After Wood-ruff Key is replaced, check the camshaft bearing journals and if they're OK also check the compression. There is always the possibility that the Camshaft Bearing Journal(s) are damaged. But from your description, the self re-indexing of things due to the absence of the Wood-ruff Key may have allowed the Piston to come into contact with one or more of the Valves. This would be a bad thing. Low engine compression would be an indication of this. As long as you have the Valve Cover off to check the Camshaft Bearing Journals you can disable the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release) in order to get a valid engine compression reading. If I had to guess (and I am guessing), the bit of plastic looks like a part of the Cam Chain Guide that fits and pivots on the front side of the Cam Chain between the Cylinder Head and the Cylinder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Okay, real quick: You've found metal parts that appear to be (or at least used to be) part of the engine, inside the case. Your bike made a loud noise at speed and started malfunctioning. What it sounds like is that you want to put the woodruff key back in and start the thing up. Please don't do that.

That said, you're gonna need to do a compression test like blue hwys said above. The KACR needs to be disabled before doing so. Tom has a great youtube video below, detailing the function of it.


Now would also be the time to pop the clutch cover off and take a look at the oil screen. If you haven't done so already, you're probably going to find some rubbery crap in there, which isn't too bad. What you want to look out for is metal bits and shavings, which indicate that your engine is trying to grind itself to pieces.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,372 Posts
To @bluehighways point, a compression test will tell you quite a bit. There are a lot of variables when you are doing a compression test with the KACR functioning, so the acceptable range is quite broad. I prefer to disable the KACR and do the compression test because then the numbers relate to what we understand are normal and abnormal for an engine.

This video will show how to do a compression test with and without disabling the KACR. It should be noted that if you are not going to disable the KACR then you don't need to remove the valve cover.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bluehighways

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thank you guys but I think I'm giving up, this internal problem is far to much for my novice motorcycle ability. I took the valve cover off but not the journals and didn't see any obvious damage on the cam lobes everything looked super smooth no gouges. I also compression tested but did not disable the KACR and got a reading of 90ft/lb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
If you still have the Valve Cover off, at the very least, you really need to remove the Right Front (Drivers perspective) Camshaft Bearing Journal Cap (two bolts). If/when there is any damage, the Camshaft Lobes almost always look perfect. It's the Camshaft Bearing Journals that get damaged. You'll not see that until/unless you remove a Camshaft Bearing Journal Cap. Since the Right Front Exhaust Camshaft Bearing Journal is the first to show any signs of damage . . . . if it's OK you can be 99 44/100 ths % sure the other three are OK as well.

Your compression test sounds good. That's an excellent reading for not having disabled the KACR.

Don't give up to easily. There's a very good chance that whatever damage there is, will be minimal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Already put everything back together as I was incredibly frustrated and felt in over my head/ also doing all this work in a friends dirty carport. Is it possible my problems/metal shard damage is simply from running bad timing since I bought the bike used two months ago? Still very confused about setting timing right at all places I need to even after searching fourm/YouTube/clymer manual
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,256 Posts
The woodruff key only sets the position of the rotor on the shaft. It does not affect the cam timing, the balancer timing or the valves.

The balancer chain doesn't wear (stretch) much at all over many tens of thousands of miles. It is running in oil. However, the rubber shoulders on the balancer sprockets do compress and/or deteriorate causing slack in the balancer chain. Too much slack will allow the chain to drag on the bottom of the case and produce some aluminum flakes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
The woodruff key only sets the position of the rotor on the shaft. It does not affect the cam timing, the balancer timing or the valves.

The balancer chain doesn't wear (stretch) much at all over many tens of thousands of miles. It is running in oil. However, the rubber shoulders on the balancer sprockets do compress and/or deteriorate causing slack in the balancer chain. Too much slack will allow the chain to drag on the bottom of the case and produce some aluminum flakes.
Maybe possible that the doohickey has never been adjusted?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Doohickey was intact and has already been replaced with an eagle Mike, the spring was also intact. There was still gouging on the case in multiple places from the balancer chain, I went ahead and also installed torsion spring. None of this helped any of the engine problem
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Just sell the bike to me for $300.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Just a quick update, broke down after frustration and took it to local Kawasaki tech. Heads are in great shape and bottom end looks great no bearing damage in bottom end. Looks like it might be from all balance chain wearing on inside and out that cause exccesive damage to all chain guides in the left side of engine. Having to get new chain guides and a new balancer chain. Since the motor is apart already probably going Schnitz 705 big bore kit too
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
$275. Final offer. :animal0001:
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top