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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started my bike as usual. Took off to a hill to enjoy the view from a top. Bike was idling fine for about 5 minutes. When I tried to take off it would stall. Turned it on again but upon using the throttle it would die. Pushed the bike up the hill and coasted downhill home. Charging my battery now after this situation which drained it while attempting to start it. Tank vent hose connected and not kinked. Fuel in tank (almost full) Opened gas cap when re starting it but still would die upon using the throttle. Could this be a petcock issue ?
Read I can turn this vacuum petcock into manual by opening the petcock, removing diaphragm and spring, then using a square piece of rubber in place and bolting back the petcock (using silicon to close vacuum opening on back of petcock) Bike has spark, new plug (less than 100 miles) and side stand was not down (jic someone asks)

Bike was running good before this at highway speeds and in town no issue

Gen 2 2014 with about 8K miles on
 

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Not a petcock issue, IMHO. Diaphragm (the one connected to the carburetor slide) air leak (perforation or improper sealing) could cause the symptom.

Another possibility: Contaminated fuel, as in moisture collecting in bottom of fuel bowl. Main jet is lowest jet; denser fluid (water) collects low down; main jet "drinks" the combustion-hampered water-laced fuel when the throttle is opened; higher altitude (measured from ground) idle jet affected less by moisture (since fuel is "lighter" than water), provides combustible mixture at idle.

Suggestion: First drain carburetor float bowl, insure fresh, "dry" gas is in the tank. And/or: Put fuel conditioner (e.g., "Heet") in tank; alcohol mixes with moisture in fuel supply, insuring a combustible mixture.

Next (if that doesn't help), examine diaphragm for perforations/tears, and insure air-tight circumferential sealing when re-assembling plastic mixing chamber cap atop carb and diaphragm "skirt."

DISCLAIMER: Fanciful postulation only above; yet . . . I THINK I've, "been there, done that!"
 

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Confirm that the fuel tap handle is properly positioned, not half way between positions.

If you were running on reserve position and you refilled your tank with bad fuel (watered) that could be your issue if the fuel valve is still in the reserve position, taking fuel/water from the very bottom of the tank.

I'll also suggest that you should inspect what comes out of the float bowl, by using a clean hose & clean glass jar to drain into. Then with bowl drain still open and cold start lever OFF, crank the starter motor 5 seconds to confirm that the automatic vacuum operated fuel tap is functioning properly. If functional, close the drain screw & crank the starter motor 20 seconds continuously to refill the float bowl.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi guys.

As said before bike idled but would not allow to be ridden dying every time I attempted to up the throttle

I replaced the air filter with new UNI brand filter

Oiled it properly with MOTUL A2 air filter oil

Same , idled improved but nothing else

So I took the carb out and took it over to a friend for cleaning

I was flabbergasted !!!

As soon as he opened the carb water came out !

Before I took the carb out while I was trying to find out if there was duel flow I did empty the carb by loosening the drain bolt at bottom, remember using a plastic bottle that was dry ... and a small hose

Remember seeing water in the bottle and unable to believe it I thought the bottle which I washed in and out a day before might have had water in it

I never ever found water in a tank unless we were talking about a boat

The fuel cap is key operated , no possibility of any prankster pouring water in it.

I never had a motorcycle or car that had water in the tank, but as soon as my buddy opened the carb we saw water coming off with fuel

Gees !

He disassembled it and it was dirty to, with gum deposits so the carb got a good cleaning service

I have it at home and will re assemble the bike

Will empty the tank and take the petcock out to clean the filters

Will so need any special sealing agent for it or is it just “unbolt, clean a bolt it on” ?

Any advise on additives to use ? What could cause water in a fuel tank ?
 

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Old tanks on gas stations could have water in them on the bottom, temperature changes form condensation and over time the amount of water increases, there is no magical cure, change the place where you tank and hope for the best.The engine will probably run fine even with some small amount of water in fuel
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Are there any fuel additives that would eliminate water from fuel as preventive measure ?
 

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Are there any fuel additives that would eliminate water from fuel as preventive measure ?
"Heet," or . . . ask your friendly AutoZone (or whatever) automotive parts and stuff store salesperson, regarding "fuel treatment additives."

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Just a comment. Moisture condenses and accumulates over a long period of time. Mere atmospheric changes can cause condensation contamination, over time. The main jet is the lowest in the carburetor; the bike may idle fine, ingesting fuel from higher-elevation jets, but . . . opening the throttle causes fuel to flow through the main jet, where the water concentration is greatest (since water has higher density than gasoline, thus accumulating in the bottom of the float bowl).
 

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Will empty the tank and take the petcock out to clean the filters

Will so need any special sealing agent for it or is it just “unbolt, clean a bolt it on” ?
Jaimesix,
You will NEED to Siphon the 2 - 4 ounces of water out of each of the forward corners/wings of the fuel tank. Then siphon or drain the rest of the Usable fuel.

The petcock has a normally re-useable o-ring seal between it & the tank.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jaimesix,
You will NEED to Siphon the 2 - 4 ounces of water out of each of the forward corners/wings of the fuel tank. Then siphon or drain the rest of the Usable fuel.

The petcock has a normally re-useable o-ring seal between it & the tank.
Update

Took the fuel tank off and put it upside down emptying it. Put some fresh fuel in, shook it well and rinsed it.

Then re installed it with fresh fuel.

Carburetor got cleaned throughly

Everything back together and now it works fine. Also new UNI filter , oiled it and added a new platinum plug.

When not in use for a while I will add fuel stabilizer, run it for about 15 minutes so the stabilizer reaches the carb, then before turning it off, close the fuel valve, and let the bike idle until it stops for lack of fuel. By then the stabilizer mixed with fuel will have ran through the carb providing protection against gumming up.

Usually I use either Stabil or Liqui Molly brands stabilizers.

Gas stations with poor maintenance habits collect water in their tanks hence selling water with their fuel.

It would be good practice to every couple months while going low on fuel, to empty the contents of the tank in order to get rid of any water. The vacuum assisted petcock does not help in this realm

I was thinking, rather than installing a non vacuum petcock, could I use the stock petcock as a non vacuum assisted one for reason of easy tank emptying by attaching a vacuum pump like those used for brake systems to the vacuum hose attachment point in the fuel valve to make it flow ?

In that case emptying the tank, and using pure alcohol to rinse the tank would rid it of any water ?

Water in the tank amongst other things rusts the fuel tank and that is not cool
 

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I was thinking, rather than installing a non vacuum petcock, could I use the stock petcock as a non vacuum assisted one for reason of easy tank emptying by attaching a vacuum pump like those used for brake systems to the vacuum hose attachment point in the fuel valve to make it flow ?
No need for a MityVac pump.

An empty Visine bottle squeezed & then attached the petcock vacuum hose will open & hold open the petcock diaphragm to allow draining the entire fuel tank.

Of course, like I said earlier, one must siphon the forward corners dry. That is where any sediments or water will collect.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No need for a MityVac pump.

An empty Visine bottle squeezed & then attached the petcock vacuum hose will open & hold open the petcock diaphragm to allow draining the entire fuel tank.

Of course, like I said earlier, one must siphon the forward corners dry. That is where any sediments or water will collect.
In order to rid the bottom corners of any water, I was thinking about something like a sponge on a stick , sponge shaved thin so it can enter those corners and suck on that water / gas mix until all gone

👍👍
 

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Six feet of 1/4" clear vinyl hose from Ace Hardware or Lowes, etc is quite cheap & very effective at cleaning those corners.
Only need to siphon about 1 cup per side, out & into a glass jar to if there is or was anything.

A tank full of Gasahol gasoline will absorb any residual water. Or you can use some 'Heet' in non-ethanol gasoline.
 
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