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Discussion Starter #1
I have just bought a KLR 650 1999.

First post. Always wanted to own one.

Im 60, never been without a bike since I was ten , mostly old and crap so have some experience making them run.

One owner from new, 6500km, has not run for three years. He reported that the last time he rode it it was popping and banging as if the timing was off.

I put a new battery in, completely dismantled and reassembled carb - (it was clean inside, watched a great video series on here) Both diaphragms look good. Plugged the vacuum line at carb to the fuel petcock and took the spring and o ring out of the petcock.

The plastic fuel enricher attachment is broken off and has been siliconed, but right at the outside end where the cable outer fits in. I dont think its leaking air.

It sparks fine - spun over with plug out,

All I am getting are some impressive backfires and occasionally it fires once nicely.

Ordered a doohickey kit so will do that as soon as I get back, as well as a Vulcan petcock and a no cable choke kit.

Unfortunately I leave for work tomorrow for a couple of months, so thats it for now, but any ideas appreciated - particularly how I go about checking ECU.

Thanks , Charlie
 

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Three other things that I would have done even before ensuring that the carburetor passageways Above the pilot jet were clean (did you see the 3 tiny holes under the bottom lip of the butterfly plate?).

#1, Inspect, clean & Re-Oil the foam air filter. inspect for dust inside the Clean Side of the air box.

#2, Measure the Cold Cranking Compression of engine with throttle Wide Open. (77-124 psi)

#3, Check spark strength with plug cap unscrewed from the coil wire, 7mm + of spark ? And install a brand new spark plug.

Wishing you Good Luck upon returning from work.
 

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Plug-even a bad one can spark outside,compression takes more umph.
Try a new plug-worked for me.
And drain float bowl and refill.
KLR is a VERY cold natured beast-after this use starting fluid sparingly.
Check choke adjustment at handlebar-mine tends to backoff.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for all the good suggestions. I had cleaned the air filter, and I think I got all the holes clean in the carb body.

I did get it to start after cleaning the plug again and gapping it. Sounded nice but did not want to accelerate and still cut out occasionally but it idled nicely at half enricher/ choke.

When I get back ill bring a new plug and plug cap. I think a good check of grounds and connections is in order.
 

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Did you drain the ethanol gasoline from the carb before leaving for 60 days + of work?
 

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I am a new KLR owner too. At 58 I’ve come from the Harley world to get a little dirt under my butt again. One foot in each world for now. Lol. And I’m reacquainting myself with this ‘old’ but tried and true technology. Owning fuel injected cars and bikes forever I need to remember what it was to hop on the YZ and chock her till warm before riding off.
I’ve no business giving advice here Since I’m learning all over again but I’ll tell you what I did notice/remember after reading your post(s).... any twist of the throttle before she’s warmed up and she bogs or dies. Choke on at various settings allows an ease into the throttle to get going if I don’t have time to warm throughly then disengage choke once under way.
I’ve observed that as she warms with choke on the RPM’s will go up after a minute or two. This seems to signal she’s almost ready and I can back off the choke.
You probably are aware of this and your starting problem is beyond my expertise at the moment.
Hope you get it worked out when you get back!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I got back from France and am self isolating so bolted some bits on the KLR.

New plug and plug cap. New front tire. Eagle Mike doohickey and spring. Raptor fuel valve - I soldered the long reserve off the KLR valve onto it. Clutch cable.

I also put this on from amazon KAWASAKI-CHOKE-ENRICHNER-CABLE-ELIMINATOR as the plastic part on the original choke was broken.

The bike is running great now, but still hard to start when cold, it's almost like the choke makes no difference. I am not sure that it is opening sufficiently, the knob only moves about a 1/4", seems like much less than with the original cable set up. The bike fires instantly, but just won't pick up until I have cranked for a while. It then runs and idles beautifully once it starts. I think your advice RE throttle is spot on, but I just dont think the choke is working correctly. I'm going to order the plastic part and go back to the cable and see if that helps.
 

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Well I got back from France and am self isolating so bolted some bits on the KLR.

New plug and plug cap. New front tire. Eagle Mike doohickey and spring. Raptor fuel valve - I soldered the long reserve off the KLR valve onto it. Clutch cable.

I also put this on from amazon KAWASAKI-CHOKE-ENRICHNER-CABLE-ELIMINATOR as the plastic part on the original choke was broken.

The bike is running great now, but still hard to start when cold, it's almost like the choke makes no difference. I am not sure that it is opening sufficiently, the knob only moves about a 1/4", seems like much less than with the original cable set up. The bike fires instantly, but just won't pick up until I have cranked for a while. It then runs and idles beautifully once it starts. I think your advice RE throttle is spot on, but I just dont think the choke is working correctly. I'm going to order the plastic part and go back to the cable and see if that helps.
The cold start plunger only travels about 7-8mm.
If the cold start enrichener makes no difference then maybe the non-replaceable cold start jet is varnished closed.

I'll also suggest that the 3 low speed transition holes under the bottom lip of the throttle plate are restricted with varnish or flakes.
With the carb removed. float bowl off, pilot jet removed, I used a tiny wire bent 90 degrees to poke down thru those 3 holes & then aerosol carb cleaner & compressed air to back-flush the pilot passageways.
Then with external mixture screw lightly seat, I spray aerosol carb cleaner Up Thru the pilot passageway to check for full flow thru those 3 holes. Re-set mixture screw to where is was and spray again. Reassemble & reinstall.

Have you read the high-lighted link in this link? And then watched the videos?
https://www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tech-guides/45258-care-feeding-cvk40.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the reply, those articles and videos are excellent.

I will have another look today, I am getting fast at removing the carb.

I think my aftermarket enricher assembly is not opening sufficiently to uncover both ports that I see in the carb. drawing. It seems to be stopped by the spring becoming coilbound where it enters the brass body.

I will also check all the passages, but I think I have them all clean now.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I tried to start this morning with the enricher brass barrel almost fully unscrewed and it started instantly. I then swapped the spring that came with the enricher assembly with the one that was originally on the cable operated system (its about 4mm shorter) and I got more travel. I can now hear a drop in idle rpm when I push it in, so I think I have solved this. Ill see tomorrow am when its cold again.
 
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