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2013 Kawasaki KLR650
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So this seems crazy but my 2013 KLR 650 wasn’t starting (after only running with choke for a few weeks even in the heat), so after doing research I figured I need to clean the carb. Start taking it apart and when i remove the seat i noticed that the vent* line that connects to the gas tank was gone! Just nowhere to be found.
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This is my first time working on this bike so i’m not sure how this could happen or if i’m looking at it wrong, i saw videos of people removing their seats and they had a line coming out of this hole which mine didn’t. Would really appreciate some advice here!

*update: not the fuel line, the vent line
 

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2013 Kawasaki KLR650
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The fuel line is in the bottom picture. You must have ripped it off the petcock when you removed the tank.
Maybe i worded it wrong, when i took off the seat i noticed the tube thing (not sure what its called) that connects to the fuel tank was missing. I removed the 2 tube things that connected to the petcock to remove the tank.
 

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Show us a picture of the left side of your carburetor.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It seems like someone had the same concern as me here a few years ago and you answered it haha. I guess its a vent hose and not needed? I just found this:


Onwards with cleaning the carb
 

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The Fuel tank CAP vent hose off of the rear nipple of the fuel tank simply keeps over-filled fuel tanks from dribbling Flammable Fuel from getting near a very HOT exhaust pipe when one fills-up Before eating lunch. Best to fill-up after a pee or lunch break.

The oem fuel cap vent hose used to terminate near the rear brake pedal pivot. Any piece of proper ID hose will serve the purpose.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Now i found 2 of the screws on the bottom of my carb are stripped😭going to order the eagle mike ones but in the meantime how do i remove the stripped screws?
 

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Those screws probably aren't in there that tight. They have a JIS head and are probably stripped because a Phillips screwdriver was used on them. The Phillips bit will cam out, damaging the JIS head.

There are several options to remove the stripped screws. You can blunt a Phillips bit and put valve grinding compound in the head, then apply strong pressure, forcing the screwdriver into the screw head. Twist the screwdriver and gently tap the screwdriver handle with a small hammer. Same process with a JIS screwdriver, if you have one. You can also cut a slot in the head with a Dremel and a disc, then use a flat screwdriver. You can cut the head off, remove the bowl, and remove the remaining screw with vise grips. You can try to use the smallest screw extractor size after drilling off the head and into the screw shank.

The above are presented in increasing order of risk of fucking up.
 

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A sharp chisel held at the side of the screw head & wacked with a small hammer will loosen them.

But every mechanic will appreciate one of these in the long run.
Wow have the kits sky-rocketed in price, nuts

The driver can be purchased separately for a mere $88.00, go figure!

Harbor Freight or other tool suppliers will have similar, cheaper versions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Was hoping to do it without removing the carb, got one out which was barely stripped (and then dropped it in the middle of the bike😭) only one screw left now!

here’s the culprit:
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A long enough, sharp enough chisel held on the forward edge of the head would jar it loose.

I prefer to do ALL carb work on the work bench. Removal from a clean bike is pretty easy with correct technique.
See this,
 
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2002 gen 1 street-ized commuter special--Flatland Flyer--
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Vessel brand JIS screwdrivers are available on amazon. price is reasonable, seem to be good quality
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Managed to grab it with some pliers and twist it out. Then i dropped the pilot jet into the bike🤦‍♂️so now i’m looking for that…

edit: found it!!
 

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A long enough, sharp enough chisel held on the forward edge of the head would jar it loose.

I prefer to do ALL carb work on the work bench. Removal from a clean bike is pretty easy with correct technique.
See this,
DAM,, I thought it was a nite mare to remove the carb,, you make it look easy!! I did kinda miss what you did to remove the enricher though. Is it true the enricher is easy to break when removing?? Thanks
 

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KLRs: 2013, 2005, 1998; 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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The nut that holds the enricher cable into the carb is plastic, so use appropriately gentle force. if you break it, no biggie, they are cheap to replace (about 9 bucks) or buy an aluminum one that won't break (about 20 bucks).

It really is easy to remove the reinstall the carb. After you climb the learning curve by doing it a handful of times, you'll agree. Another thing working against you the first time you do it, is that the rubber ducts are stiff from sitting in one position for years. Flexing them around seems to loosen them up so that it's easier the 2nd time, etc.
 

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The nut that holds the enricher cable into the carb is plastic, so use appropriately gentle force. if you break it, no biggie, they are cheap to replace (about 9 bucks) or buy an aluminum one that won't break (about 20 bucks).

It really is easy to remove the reinstall the carb. After you climb the learning curve by doing it a handful of times, you'll agree. Another thing working against you the first time you do it, is that the rubber ducts are stiff from sitting in one position for years. Flexing them around seems to loosen them up so that it's easier the 2nd time, etc.
FANTASTIC,,, I've heard a lot about the MCP carb mod,,planning on that and the Thermo Bob this winter. Mine is a 2010,,1350 miles, and runs good (as far as I know) but seems his kit can really wake things up a bit. Cant imagine working on a carb in place,, dropped screws, dirt, bad angles,,, THANKS
 
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