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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have a knock in my engine after riding for a bit without oil... So I'm heading home after a good ride when I notice theres a knock in the engine. I stop and inspect the bike and find that I have just about 0 oil in my bike... Immediately I scream the appropriate curse words, limp back home and add oil. "Yes , it was Motorcycle oil." Anyways, the knock diminish's but IS STILL THERE!!! I just read a post kinda similar to this where the oil was the culprit. My dad's KLR runs great with the same oil though. I still have the power, but that knock is driving me insane like the "Tale Tale Heart!" Any suggestions other than double checking my oil or sanity?
 

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Your Dad's KLR runs great with the "appropriate amount" of the same oil.
 

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The brand of oil is not / was not the problem with your bike.
I'll suggest that you read this recent thread,

And read the 4 threads directly below this in 'Recommended Reading'.
 
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............I notice theres a knock in the engine. I stop and inspect the bike and find that I have just about 0 oil in my bike......... limp back home and add oil.........
So you knew the engine had zero oil and rode it home anyway??? Wife was giving birth or what? You don't ride it with zero oil that's what the kill switch is for! Anything would have been better than zero. Transmission fluid, WD40 or even vegetable oil. Air isn't that great of a lubricate. The damage is done and there isn't a magic bullet. Sounds like a rebuild to me. After it's fixed, put a quart in the saddlebag.
 

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Have a knock in my engine after riding for a bit without oil... So I'm heading home after a good ride when I notice theres a knock in the engine. I stop and inspect the bike and find that I have just about 0 oil in my bike...
I recon that we ought to ask if by this statement that the OIL WINDOW had just about zero oil showing in it?

Maybe you ought to stand the bike straight up? And have another look? Or Lean it far to the RH side & have another look?
Or stand it straight up & add oil until the level nears the top line & tell us how much you had to add to get to the top line?

The KLR650 can still operate on level highways with about 1 & 1/2 quart below full level of 2.5qt. But this is NOT Recommended practice!! There is no safety margin left & steep up-hills or down-hills may still damage it.

The oil filter can be removed after setting over night without hardly spilling a drop of oil.
One can remove the oil filter to inspect it for abnormal amount of 'glitter' & re-use it if you do not find glitter.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm going into the motor in a couple of days to look things over. Talked to a Mechanic friend and after listening he said it sounded like a lifter cap had come loose... I've never heard of that but either way I'm going in... will let you know.
 

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One of the worst things that YOU can do is get ahead of your self!

How much oil does it take to bring it back up to a full window? Oil is cheap! Use any oil, I don't care!! You can drain it later.

What does he mean by "a lifter cap"? I've never heard of THAT either. How long have you owned it? How many miles have you ridden it?
 
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Yoiu can inspect the oil filter to see if there is a lot of metal shavings. If YES then you can start looking for an used head. It's the first thing to get damaged when the engine oil get low.
 

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KLR doesn't have lifters. As Paul said; how did you determine you had zero oil? ....more importantly, exactly how much did you add? How long/far was the ride? When was the last time you checked the oil? ........I suspect a rebuild is in order; running low on oil is the number one cause for premature KLR engine death. As noted above, first thing to go is the camshaft caps/bores, starting with the RH exh.

good luck,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
And now I'll tell the story... So I got a new back tire delivered and went to my local motorcycle shop to get it put on. 2 hrs. later mechanics come out and Thank me for my patience and say my bike is ready... cool... I go to work and back home.. The next day I go for the Afformentioned ride and discover I now have about 1/2 a quart of oil. after I hear knocking and check it out. I dont know if my bike got mixed up with another at the bike shop and they drained the oil by accident or what.. I do know that I heard the Co-owner making excuses to 4 other customers while I was waiting about how they were still working on or waiting on parts... Anyways, I'm not going back there to bitch and cry.. I enjoy learning to work on my KLR which just hit 20,000 miles. I bought it at 16,000. So I'm gonna do this myself. I will keep u guys updated.. Thanks much for the advice and support.
 

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KLRblueWolf, I agree with others posting on this thread: Unclear to the reader how you determined your oil was low, and how you measured this volume. And, how far you rode with only 1/2 quart of oil in the crankcase.

Riding too far with too little oil grenades the cylinder head. Here's hoping you had enough oil and a short enough ride to avoid this catastrophe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I've pulled my head and found that the knock was a loose camp cap... The one that has the thinnest journal. Anyway, the cap has lost material that has gaulded up on the journal of the head. Is it possible to get that gaulded material removed without damaging the head?? Assuming that the head isn't already toast.. If not, Will a Gen 1 head fit on my Gen 2 bike?
 

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A Gen 1 head, complete with Valve Cover With chain slipper/guide in the top, will install onto your Gen 2.
Can you provide pics?

Have you read the other thread that I linked?
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A Gen 1 head, complete with Valve Cover With chain slipper/guide in the top, will install onto your Gen 2.
Can you provide pics?

Have you read the other thread that I linked?
First off, you guys and this forum are AWESOME!! Thanks for all your help. I did read the thread you linked after you reminded me on this message and you were all over it. It is the right exhaust journal and cap that I'm having issues with. The cap shows wear and the wore material is now galded to my journal. AND one of the screws holding the cap is broken! Half of the screw is still in the head. Ima grab some pics and postem in a few min's. I like the "line bore" with those inserted bearings idea from the other thread. Still worried about that broken screw though.
 

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It is not "Wear" on the bearing, it is Damage. There is usually Only one way for that damage to occur on a KLR650.

If you send the head, cams & cylinder to Eagle Mike, he probably then sends the Head & cams to Engine Dynamics if the damage is bad enough to need the insert bearings to be installed.

Or Engine Dynamics can do the whole job. They probably have to purchase the JE piston from Eagle Mike.

You could PM @TaylorW and confir directly with him about his sources for repair.
 

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Engine Dynamics can attend to both of those issues.

Don't make it worse for them (more expensive for you), by attempting bolt extraction if you have Never done it before.
Bolt the cams with sprockets back into the head with all 4 bearings before shipping. And ask that they re-shim/adjust the tappet clearances also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK. So I tore down my bike to the piston. Cleaned everything up, BOUGHT a Low mileage head and rebuilt it. It was still a bit off when I took it for a spin. Checked the valve timing and guess what? Gotta re-shim. Looks like this will be my fix though. Really appreciate all the support from u guys. Will update soon.
 

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BOUGHT a Low mileage head
How much did your Low mileage head cost? Did the head come with the exhaust camshaft, possibly both camshafts?

Valve Timing is not the same thing as Valve Tappet Clearances, but we get the point.

Did you also replace the piston and rings to hopefully reduce or eliminate the oil consumption which caused the problem in the first place?
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How much did your Low mileage head cost? Did the head come with the exhaust camshaft, possibly both camshafts?

Valve Timing is not the same thing as Valve Tappet Clearances, but we get the point.

Did you also replace the piston and rings to hopefully reduce or eliminate the oil consumption which caused the problem in the first place?
[/QUOTE
So the head cost me $600. Came with both cams, chain guard and head cover. I changed the piston rings put it all back together and she ran. I think once I get my shims in, I'll be set... Keep you posted.
 
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