[Thomas12477]

Those cap nuts as well as the exhaust clamp nut/bolt are places that using a torque wrench is a pretty good idea. Anti-seize is also a good idea.

Not sure the torque specs but I'll have to look it up in the shop manual I got here.

 

[a4twenty]

also, re-torgue those nuts after the first heat cycle to avoid this happening again. make sure to wait for the engine to fully cool before re-torquing.

I would check again after a few more heat cycles, just to be sure.

 

[pdwestman]

Not sure the torque specs but I'll have to look it up in the shop manual I got here.

8mm x 1.25 thread , 180 Inch Pounds , Anti-seize grease on the flange of Acorn nuts & the threads to prevent corrosion/rust. It is best to use anti-seize grease on all exhaust nuts, bolts & clamp bolt threads.

 

[Thomas12477]

Those cap nuts as well as the exhaust clamp nut/bolt are places that using a torque wrench is a pretty good idea. Anti-seize is also a good idea.

Thank you, I must have rattled them loose, I'll check everything.

 

[Thomas12477]

8mm x 1.25 thread , 180 Inch Pounds , Anti-seize grease on the flange of Acorn nuts & the threads to prevent corrosion/rust. It is best to use anti-seize grease on all exhaust nuts, bolts & clamp bolt threads.

Went around town, no one had anything like it, other than In brass. I'll just wait for it in the mail. Thanks, I've been checking everything, found 3 bolts in total missing and one who's heads snapped off, from some dude forgetting what way to turn in upside down while removing the back finder, to replace the broken rear turn signal.

 

[Timlang60]

If you were anxious to run it, you could use regular nuts of the correct size and pitch. Replace them with the acorn nuts when those come in. I believe the reason they use them in that location is that in keeping things covered, they do a better job of protecting the stud/threads from corrosion.

 

[Thomas12477]

If you were anxious to run it, you could use regular nuts of the correct size and pitch. Replace them with the acorn nuts when those come in. I believe the reason they use them in that location is that in keeping things covered, they do a better job of protecting the stud/threads from corrosion.

Really debated on it but 15 bucks for the pack of nuts that has the one you need... not sure if the lady was just up selling the special treated ones bit reading your post now could just used regular ones huh..

 

[Moeggsy]

Hay,
Long story short, the roads are slick af when it rains for the first time and I lost traction on my frunt wheel going around a righthand corner. I felt something weird, and went to pull over and the bike went out from under me. I live in a rual area so lucky I didn't meet oncoming traffic. The bike kinda did a sick grind on the side of the road, where it meets the ditch, I did a quick shaka bra before turning to a fresh grind spot, Than I stoped, my bike kept going into the ditch than stoped. was like "mfer" than i slammed the ground with my fist, than got back on it and drove it back home, was the first corner from my house.

I bent the bracket on the right side that holds the water tank. Brain storming ideas on how to get it bent back before I end up buying a new one.

I also poped out the exhost copper washer, but I've been experiencing an unavoidable popping so its probably been going out for awhile. Exhost is loose.
The nut on the back wheel is missing material, but I can live with that for now.
I had to re ajust the back wheel to get the chain to run strate.
I need new foot pegs, to much material Is missing for me to feel comfortable holding my f. A. Up lol.
Rear brake pedal needs replaced.

Waiting for the copper washer before a start it back up.

Hope I can cetch everything, the bike has 5k miles on it.

Watch out for the rubbery asphalt fill in the cracks jointment. They say those can be slippery and take the wheels out from under you. Believe there's some YouTube videos

 

[Timlang60]

could just used regular ones huh..

Could have used regular ones temporarily. If you do that, replace them with acorn nuts as soon as you get some, or it'll get forgotten and you'll someday wish I'd kept my mouth shut when you twist the studs off trying to remove the header.

 

[banditcilik]

Watch out for the rubbery asphalt fill in the cracks jointment. They say those can be slippery and take the wheels out from under you. Believe there's some YouTube videos

In my area people call it tar snakes. Good way to save tax payer's money but very harmful for motorcyclists in summer.

 

[a4twenty]

In my area people call it tar snakes. Good way to save tax payer's money but very harmful for motorcyclists in summer.

lok, there are some roads up here that have more tar snakes than open asphalt.

 

[MN Willie]

lok, there are some roads up here that have more tar snakes than open asphalt.

+1

Willie

 

[KLR Kool-Aid!]

In my area people call it tar snakes.

Yep - that's what we call them and they can really be an unpleasant surprise when they start to get hot and viscous, especially on a hard turn.

 

[pdwestman]

How many of you have encountered a steel grid cattle guard/auto gate on an asphalt road, on the crest of a rise, in mid corner?
Granted, I was doing half again + the speed of the Yellow & Black, Cautionary sign 'recommended speed'!
Was on a back road between Geogetown & Grant, Colorado IIRC in 1981, was headed to Pikes Peak Mtn Road Race on my '74 Z-1 900. I didn't crash. But I'd swear both tires changed wheel tracks on that 5 or 6 ft span!
Thank god, it wasn't wet.

 

[Timlang60]

A cattle guard in the middle of a corner would be a serious 'clench' moment under the best conditions!

 

[banditcilik]

How many of you have encountered a steel grid cattle guard/auto gate on an asphalt road, on the crest of a rise, in mid corner?
Granted, I was doing half again + the speed of the Yellow & Black, Cautionary sign 'recommended speed'!
Was on a back road between Geogetown & Grant, Colorado IIRC in 1981, was headed to Pikes Peak Mtn Road Race on my '74 Z-1 900. I didn't crash. But I'd swear both tires changed wheel tracks on that 5 or 6 ft span!
Thank god, it wasn't wet.

Not me but when I was a kid I've been victim to wet rail tracks couple of times on my BMX .
Since then I pay careful attention and make sure to hit it close to 90 degree direction in rainy weather.

 

[Thomas12477]

Hay apparently I have some tubless tires, been fighting with them all day. .. what size valve stems do I need ?

 

[Timlang60]

Hay apparently I have some tubless tires, been fighting with them all day. .. what size valve stems do I need ?

Not sure what you mean? There are people that have converted their KLRs to tubeless (not without issues), but the pop-in valve stem remains a standard pop-in valve stem. If you mean that you're fitting a tubeless tire on a tubed rim (which is perfectly fine) and wondering that stem the tube should have, they're all the same diameter. The only difference is length of stem, and whether it has an elbow in it. The 'standard' tube has a straight, threaded stem, and the length doesn't really matter.

 

[Thomas12477]

Not sure what you mean? There are people that have converted their KLRs to tubeless (not without issues), but the pop-in valve stem remains a standard pop-in valve stem. If you mean that you're fitting a tubeless tire on a tubed rim (which is perfectly fine) and wondering that stem the tube should have, they're all the same diameter. The only difference is length of stem, and whether it has an elbow in it. The 'standard' tube has a straight, threaded stem, and the length doesn't really matter.

Tubless tire on original tubed rims. Thank you

 

[Timlang60]

Tubless tire on original tubed rims. Thank you

Okay, good. The OEM rear wheel actually has the 'tubeless retainer ridges' (or, whatever they're called) built into the rim, while the front does not. This means that seating a 'tubeless' tire on the rear rim will require both more lube and more air pressure to 'pop' the bead, because of the ridge, and the way a tubeless tire fits more closely to the rim to eliminate air leaks. Regardless, the number of rim penetrations for spike nipple holes means you still have to run a tube. Most motorcycle tubes have a straight threaded stem, in a standard diameter and of various lengths - most any will work on a KLR so long as the actual tube size is correct. Standard would be a 90/90-21 front (2.75/3.00-21 in inch sizing) for the front and a 130/80-17 (5.00/5.11-17 in inch sizing) rear for both tires and tubes.