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Discussion Starter #1
Adding LED Turns to '03 KLR650 and I'm getting confused by diodes/resistors/LED flashers and a few other 'electronical-type' terms so I'm coming to you folks for some guidance please!

IF!
I add LED Turns F/R and R/L, and I also add a correct Resistor (eBay) to each Positive Wire (+) lead into each Turn, am I GoodToGo???
Will I have any issue with my dash 'Turn Indicator' signal?

Many thanks from the Noob...
 

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First I'd ask a question: WHY?

POWER: If you're trying to save the amps for other items, then adding resistors are going to defeat any gain you may get. Turns are not turned on enough to matter anyway.

LONGER LIFE: If you're interested in longer life of the light. Keep in mind that there are "Long Life" bulbs you can buy.

PREVENTING FUTURE PROBLEMS: If a bulb was buried deep inside some housing, I could see swapping to an LED, but since turns are easy to change what's the point?

No offense but when it comes to the turns, I don't see the point.
 

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I believe for the turns to blink properly you need one resistor for each side. Or you can get a led compatible flasher relay.
 

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You also need diodes in the circuit, either @Bluehighways' very clever method of repurposing a KLR OEM diode matrix on a Gen 1 or using an indicator light that is not polarity sensitive on a Gen 2.

To @Toney's point, putting LEDs in the turn signals is far more trouble than it is worth and has a zero return on investment.

The only reason to do it is if you are going to rig the turn signals as running lights that burn all the time.
 

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I like the instant on off character of led bulbs. Looks good in the tail light with a backoff style flasher.
I picked up led turn bulbs once that didn’t fit. Decided to just leave the incand bulbs.
 

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I like the instant on off character of led bulbs. Looks good in the tail light with a backoff style flasher.
I picked up led turn bulbs once that didn’t fit. Decided to just leave the incand bulbs.
LED's do come on faster since regular incandescent bulbs have to warm up before they light up. That's one reason it's a must to install them in the brake light when using a brake light modulator.

You can modify about anything now days. If you wanted to, we could wire them up so you could control them with Alexa from anywhere in the world over the internet or a Dot on the gas cap. A 2 buck NodeMCU with a shield, cell hotspot, tweaked using Arduino and we're there! Alexa turn on the fog lights. LOL!

I'm thinking about working on a cruise control for my Versys 1000 (No joke).
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The Bike is an exploded diagram currently, involving:
some clean up of DipStickPriorOwner,
Deferred Maintenance,
some 'well as long as I'm in there' and
'updating (LEDs, Convenience items, Luggage Rack).

As far as the LED Turns, I’m going there to improve the ‘See-ability’ of my Bike (it’ll ALSO look better than OEMs). I don’t need amps (just runnin’ Fogs, 12V Charging Station, Fan O/O Override switch, and the LED Turns). Yes, I’ll get Running Lights on the Rear Turns and that’s part of the appeal as well. Really, the LEDTurns just look better and I made sure to buy quality LEDs that actually ARE brighter (LEDs to Head/Tail/License Tag lights too).

Whether a good idear or not, I’m committed now… SO!
LED Turns (4), CHECK!
LED Resistors (4), CHECK!
LED Diodes (ajkl%!), aX%#(Jc aklhc !!! X)*!...
WHHHAAAAAA?!?!
Is this for the proper operation of LEDTurns AAAND Single-Bulb-Dash-Turn-Indicator I’m guessing?
SO DO I GOTTA HAVE 2 DIODES (for left and for right Dash-Turn-Indicator circuits)?!?!
And lastly, an LED Flasher is NOT necessary if doing all the above (right)?

Thanks for the reference to the diode and especially the Diagram; it helped a lot!
'Couldn't find 'BlueSky's' creative solution but this'n'll work just fine.
Ordering 2 diodes to be able to properly complete the Project unless anyone directs me differently.

I'll try to post photos for Toney and KLRForum so this LED conversion at least has the smallest CHANCE of being more sensible than I feel like it is now [I respect Toney's 'experience' here and have often found myself doing that which would cause some Pros to ask, 'Bro, WTH are you DOING?!?!' Started w/ my first car, a '76 Chevy Vega. In an effort to make it perform better (aka 'sound' better) I inverted the Air Cleaner top. This caused the Racing/Mechanic friend of my Step-Dad's to ask me at 16YO, 'What the he77 are you doing THAT for?!' Heck, I told him the truth... IT SOUNDS BETTER DUUUUUDE!!!! He didn’t respect that… OH WELL!].
Yup, put playing cards in my bicycle schpokes, too!!!

I'd-a been SO disappointed if I did Turns/Resistors to have the thing not work...
Thanks KLRForum!!!
 

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From previous discussions . . . the stock (Generation 1) dashboard turn signal indicating lamp REVERSES CURRENT, on left and right turn signals. LED signals? Since LEDs are DIODES, no can do. The dashboard indicator bulb must be armored with a diode "rectifier" of sorts for its input, and one side grounded, for the bulb to function indicating both left and right turns. Without the rectifying diodes and grounding of the dashboard turn indicator light, typically, the indicator flashes for only ONE direction, not left and right.

Some outfit sells the aforementioned "rectifier," a two-diode circuit, for less than $ 3. Link's been posted on this website recently.

CAVEAT: Generation 1 circuitry discussed; ain't sure about Generation 2 wiring.
 

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Bluehighways' solution is elegant!

GoMotor posted a link to a simpler solution; works with OEM flasher relay, once appropriate resistances for LED signal lights are installed:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/metric-bike-diode-kit/1190/2805/

Scroll down the link for wiring diagrams, both stock and essential modification (for both left- and right-hand turn flashing from the dashboard indicator light when LED signal lights are installed) shown.

This said . . . I'm with Toney's analysis, posted above in this thread, regarding installing LED turn signals. Nonetheless, to each, his right and privilege to modify his bike to his own preferences!

---------------------------------

Through the magic of Google, I find this link from yesteryear:
https://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/10135-2008-total-led-upgrade-needed-diodes-built-into-some-led-panel-lamps.html
 

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Don't overfill the Blinker Fluid or else the TPMS light will come on.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
T.S. Wish I knew how to 'Search' on KLRForum better... TRIED! Many thanks for that link.
Diode kit it is... SO!
LED Turns, Check;
LED Resistors, Check;
LED Diode Kit, Ordered;
Wiring, Pretty much done.
I'm looking forward to completing all this work when the Diode Kit shows, and I'll be so pleased when I turn on the Bike and EVERYTHING WORKS CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME
(OhPleaseGodOhPleaseGodOHPLEASE!).

I'll work all this up and post some photos in the next 30D or so (Work and Play you know). This'll be combined with my Post about Fogs and I'll be also adding a Charging Station and a coupla little things. Bonus'll be some other thangs to straighten up this little mess I bought last month (for a song).

And for those that question my KLR decision making (the guy who inverted his '76 Chevy Vega Air Filter for better sound way-back-when)... I'm using TRUCK BED LINER, TOO!!!
HOW YOU LIKE ME NOW?!?!

In all seriousness, you guys have saved me timeNmoney so I'll repay with some photos... but be patient; I'm painting the Rims, too (and F'd that up already the FIRST TIME!!!).
 

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POWER: "If you're trying to save the amps for other items, then adding resistors are going to defeat any gain you may get"
Actually, adding a resistor limits the current and conserves power. An LED needs less current than an incandescent bulb - in fact, without the resistor the LED will burn up.
 

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POWER: "If you're trying to save the amps for other items, then adding resistors are going to defeat any gain you may get"
Actually, adding a resistor limits the current and conserves power. An LED needs less current than an incandescent bulb - in fact, without the resistor the LED will burn up.
As I understand the circuit, EXBMW, au contraire! The resistors are connected in PARALLEL to the LED, shunting power to ground, increasing the current load to "fool" the flasher relay into thinking it's feeding an incandescent bulb.

This modification (installing a resistor in parallel with an LED to ground) is unnecessary with the trick flashers sold especially for use with LEDs.

But . . . the resistors get HOT, when installed to work with OEM flashers. Thus, given the Law of Conservation of Energy, MORE current is consumed by the resistor-to-ground modification, than with an LED alone connected.

Otherwise, adding a resistor (in parallel) would result in "free" power (heat) . . . free power in the sense of the PCV Valve Mod? Just kidding, just kidding! :)

DISCLAIMER: I could be totally, horribly, IN ERROR! My perception only; as always, corrections and clarifications welcomed!

Further, I WILL NOT claim to understand nor have competence using Thevenin's Theorem, calculating optimum load resistor values.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I believe you are adding unnecessary complexity with the load resistors. You're adding two electrical joints that are unnecessary simply by using a LED-ready flasher, which requires little to no load.

T.S. Thought the same about Flasher v. Resistors and had already Bought-N-Soldered in Resistors soooo... found good mounting places too so as to not melt/torch anything. 'Wish I'd known about Resistors OR LED Flasher (always understood both were needed). I rvwd thread you suggest, too; helpful (among some others I came across). 'Wish I wasn't so anal about things but then again, electrical seems like something to go ahead and be uptight about.
 

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Surely, a LED-ready flasher remains a superior and more elegant solution; but . . . we're KLRISTAS!

Resistors, I think, are more, well, THRIFTY, than an electronic flasher.

FULL DISCLOSURE: Troglodyte, I; incandescent bulbs all around (trick headlight aftermarket bulb).
 

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Could be, but the plug 'n play flashers from Super Bright LEDs are $10 and ya just plug them in. Diodes are going to be needed regardless of lead resistors or LED flasher, so not a consideration.

The lead resistors have to handle some pretty good wattage, so yer 1-watt carbons from Radio shack are going to cut it; you'll need wire-wound resistors capable of dissipating 25 watts. The least expensive resistors I could find run about $2 each and then you have to install them, creating eight potential points of electrical failure.

Choosing four resistors at $6, plus installation, over a $10 plug 'n play; I'm not sure I like what that says about KLRistas...
 
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