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Discussion Starter #1
I finished my doohicky with torsion spring mod by flashlight last night and added fresh oil this afternoon. The odometer was at 560 miles.

Anyway, on the initial start up and subsequent test ride I noticed that it sounded more quiet and there was less "chugging" while in taller gears at low RPM.

I'm wondering if the additional tension of the torsion spring might somehow make the counter balancing system operate more smoothly?

Alternatively, maybe the swap to Yamalube 10w40 is responsible?

Option #3, emptying the tank of *non* ethanol fuel and refilling with 10% ethanol made the bike more responsive? One would think that the opposite is more likely, though.

#4 The engine is broken in, having become more so within the last 50 miles.

Lastly, it's my imagination.

Regardless, it feels like a different bike and I learned a few things in the process.
 

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I finished my doohicky with torsion spring mod by flashlight last night and added fresh oil this afternoon. The odometer was at 560 miles.

Anyway, on the initial start up and subsequent test ride I noticed that it sounded more quiet and there was less "chugging" while in taller gears at low RPM.

I'm wondering if the additional tension of the torsion spring might somehow make the counter balancing system operate more smoothly?

Alternatively, maybe the swap to Yamalube 10w40 is responsible?

Lastly, it's my imagination.

Regardless, it feels like a different bike and I learned a few things in the process.
subvetssn,
Genuine Kawasaki 10W40 Petroleum Motorcycle Oil has already 'out-performed' Yama-lube! Sorry!
http://www.klrforum.com/437105-post44.html

Divide the miles, 2.0 thousand into to PPM of Wearable Metals to get ppm per thousand miles traveled.
19ppm/2.0K miles = 9.5 ppm per thou Aluminum, Yama-lube.
22ppm/5.0K miles = 4.4 ppm per thou Aluminum, K Oil.

http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-motorcycle-related-discussion/38962-laboratory-oil-analysis-thread.html

IMO, the difference that you hear is attributable to the fitment of the EM Doo-hickey to the idler/adjuster shaft and the torsion spring pulling on the EM Doo-hickey, for "zero-slack" in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
subvetssn,
Genuine Kawasaki 10W40 Petroleum Motorcycle Oil has already 'out-performed' Yama-lube! Sorry!
http://www.klrforum.com/437105-post44.html

Divide the miles, 2.0 thousand into to PPM of Wearable Metals to get ppm per thousand miles traveled.
19ppm/2.0K miles = 9.5 ppm per thou Aluminum, Yama-lube.
22ppm/5.0K miles = 4.4 ppm per thou Aluminum, K Oil.

http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-motorcycle-related-discussion/38962-laboratory-oil-analysis-thread.html

IMO, the difference that you hear is attributable to the fitment of the EM Doo-hickey to the idler/adjuster shaft and the torsion spring pulling on the EM Doo-hickey, for "zero-slack" in the system.
Yamalube isn't my permanent option. It was intended for my stolen XT250. I simply put it use because it was laying around my garage.

I'll be swapping to synthetic (brand and weight TBD) at 2,000 miles once I've done more research.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No but why would you do that?

...and yes, having proper tension on the counterbalance system can and will reduce some engine noise.

Dave
I should clarify that empty = ran dry.

As to refilling with 10% ethanol, that boils down to limited availability.

The recent flood we experienced destroyed the only local gas station that carried unethanoled fuel.

What ethanol free fuel I have on hand is reserved for power equipment.

Anyway, this provides me with an opportunity to compare fuel economy between the two types.
 

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Yamalube isn't my permanent option. It was intended for my stolen XT250. I simply put it use because it was laying around my garage.

I'll be swapping to synthetic (brand and weight TBD) at 2,000 miles once I've done more research.
I would really like to read an oil analysis of your chosen synthetic oil after 3000 miles, after you switch. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would really like to read an oil analysis of your chosen synthetic oil after 3000 miles, after you switch. :)
Probably Rotella T6 (5W40).

I'm already running it in my diesel Benz and have lots on hand.

It's JASO approved and others seem to be using it in their KLRs without any problems.

That being said, I'm a frequent changer, probably every 2k for this bike. So even it's not ideal I'll probably use it to avoid having to stock a half dozen makes and grades of motor oil.
 

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