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Discussion Starter #1
Some pretty okay LED Fogs came with my '03 KLR650. The DPO (DipstickPreviousOwner I just learned) didn't quite do everything correctly though (and there's a LOT more evidence of that on the Bike, which is now an exploded diagram so I can get her 'safe').

Here's my Qs before I 'fix' 'dem fogs:

1. There was no relay in the line; should I, must I add a relay so the relay runs the fogs and the cheaper 'switch' does not (avoiding a busted switch)?

2. Can I just attached the (-) leads on each fog to the frame for the ground, or must a run a true 'Common' (-) from the Wire Loom and/or Switch?

Thanks!

P.S. Added yellow tint to lens for a more easily 'seen by others' light and it looks great! I even feel kina European now...
 

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I'd use a relay and a FUSE. The fuse should be close to the battery. I'd ground lights to the frame. NOT the forks. Grounding to the forks may cause voltage to pass through fork bearings. I'd solder and heatshrink tube all connections adding sealer to heatshrink before shrinking. I'd wire them to come on with high beam lights automatically using hot from high beams to energize relay coil. Cover all exposed connections with dielectric grease.
 

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High beam Really doesn't work very well to actually See the roadway in foggy conditions.

But if Daytime running lights are your sole intent of installing these extra lights, then high beam is the better choice to activate from.
 

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I'd use a relay and a FUSE. The fuse should be close to the battery. I'd ground lights to the frame. NOT the forks. Grounding to the forks may cause voltage to pass through fork bearings. I'd solder and heatshrink tube all connections adding sealer to heatshrink before shrinking. I'd wire them to come on with high beam lights automatically using hot from high beams to energize relay coil. Cover all exposed connections with dielectric grease.
Toney has described the first class way of doing this through either the hi beam or low beam (your choice). For actual fog lights I would go with pdwestman's low beam suggestion.

For down the road lighting I just connected a six element spot light (not fog light) to the high beam wire and ran it through a second switch and grounded the light to the frame.

When the secondary switch is on the spot comes on and off with the high beam. With the secondary switch off the spot does not operate. I like the setup and the low amp LED spot has not overloaded the lights fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
all right, all right... I'm learnin'!!! Thanks for the (schpeedy) responses!

I'm pretty anal despite not being an Electrical Engineer, so I'm already doing some of what Toney schpelled out (was not aware of sealant for shrink tube... TRICK! 'Always thought just shrink tube alone weren't enough MMMAAANN!).

So, AWESOME idea to make them Running Lights (which I hadn't intended though I had thought I'd be using them an awful lot, if not all the time), but I want the ability to 'flick 'em off' in case a Cager gets upset with my 'lighting them up' from behind. I always upgrade lights and even have a 'thing' for FlashLights and not everyone seems to appreciate that fact I've found over the years. I aim my lights low(er), too.

And it appeared PDW 'meant' to tie Fogs to 'LOW' beam (either way a better idear).
However, what do ya'll think if I run it off the 'extra' 2-wire female connectors at the Headlight Assembly (Euro 'RunningLight' unused in US) so they'll ALWAYS be on! I'll 'Switch' that Circuit, 'Fuse' that Circuit (insert in the wire loom closer to the Battery) and also 'Relay' it so the 'China' switch won't overheat/melt (Switch is kinda 'custom' actually... RUH ROH, NOW I'm gonna have to post photos huh. FAIR ENOUGH! I'll bring those later; promise).

Use that vacant circuit??? THX!!!
 

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I like to add my own wiring that only connects to the battery and the frame for ground. On most bikes I use a marine style fusebox but on a KLR that's hard to do. Space is so limited. By adding my own stuff, I know that I'm not splicing into something that might cause an issue and one main fuse kills all my stuff if there's any issue. If I need "key on" power, I use a relay and splice into the running lights to power the relay coil. I hate seeing wiring where there's 6 hots on the battery post. On my KLR, I ran a large hot wire from the starter solenoid and covered the wire in rubber hose as an extra insulation. I figured that way the battery would only have two wires on it and the connection at the solenoid would never have to be removed. Splicing in all over the bike for all the extra stuff you add (and will add) may cause you issues down the road. As time passes, you may even forget where you tapped in to power (INSERT DEVICE HERE) and have to figure out WTF you did a year or two ago. Buy red, orange and black wire. Red is hot. Orange key on hot. Black is ground. Leave room for the next electronic DooDad the some geek invents that is a "must have".
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Toney makes much-sense (as per usual perusing KLRForum a month or so before finally Registering)... I'm thinking similarly but on a smaller scale. At a minimum I shy away from 'Cutting into the OEM Wire Loom' if I can help it (sometimes I can't).
For example,
I'm GOING OFF soldering all that should be soldered,
I'm 'sealing' the shrink tubage that I've made ample use of, and
I'm QUADRUPLE checking my newly added Connectors for strength and attachment.

I can't isolate it all as much as I'd like to (not skilled enough to do what some-a you guys are accomplishing on your Rigs), but I am thinking more correctly about these things at 55 vs when I was 16!!! Along your lines, Toney... I'm:
Isolating Fogs to 'extra' Pigtail at Headlight assembly (add Fuse, Relay and Switch),
Isolating Charging Station (Switched 12V Outlet including 2 USBs) to Battery for 'charge without key',
Inserting Switch in Fan Circuit for MY control of O/O in addition to thermostatic control (don't really need a ThermoBob in Phoenix do I?).
Running Trunk Light off Red/White wire in Stop/Run light string to be able to run Trunk light only when 'Parking Light' is on (that way I won't forget to turn off light at Trunk EVER),
Okay, the above is not an Isolation, but it shows I'm 'thinking', yes?

DPO (DipstickPriorOwners) had a 6 wire solder (at least he soldered it) at the Tail and covered it with that spray Plasti-Dip and electrical tape on toppa THAT! Needless to say rear lighting was possessed of evil spirits. I cut a lot of it out (preserved as much OEM as I could) and started over. He had 3 wires off the BattPositive and one was fraying at the poor connect tab he added. I'm so glad I tore this Bike apart and the benefit'll be that I get to 'ride in' on the Trail and I know the status of my Ride thoroughly... NOICE!!!

KLRForum rides with since I'm getting some SOLID guidance here... THX!
 

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I think that most bikes are dark a night. On the KLR I added small (but bright) amber LED's to the sides of the front fender. Then I added red side markers to the sides of my EMGO trunk with two brake lights on the rear of that trunk. I wired them to a brake light modulator. Two bucks on ebay. Much safer.


PS: Added trailer plug to trunk so I could still remove it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GS-100A-LED-Brake-Stop-Light-Strobe-Flash-Module-Controller-Box-For-Car-Vehicle/391712871797?hash=item5b33e81575%3Ag%3ATTkAAOSw4A5Yrk3S&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=brake+light+modulator&LH_BIN=1&_from=R40&rt=nc
 
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