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Discussion Starter #1
i want to put in a switch that will alow me to turn off my headlights. Can some one help and what wires and were a should tap in. Thanks.
 

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What year? It's really easier than you think, I would switch the ground/earth wire as opposed to the hot wire, this way it will be off for both the low & high beam.
On the other hand you could switch the low beam hot, then if needed to just hit the OEM high beam switch if a quick need arises.
Either way just locate the wires close to the head light
 

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Discussion Starter #3
2014.5 were do I cut the ground what ground do I cut? Coming off the switch on the left handle bar???
 

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That all depends, on where your gonna mount your switch, I'm not familiar with that model, but we can figure it out
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I have a flat metal plate just under my wind screen. This is from klrdash.com. I was just think to run wires back to the light fuse wires under the seat. If you pull this fuse it cuts head and tail lights. But leaves the dash and turns. What do you guys think. This is the swich I want to use.
 

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Doesn't matter what we think, what is it exactly you want to do, turn the light off completely, no low or high beam? Just low? And you mentioned the taillight, do you want to disable it as well?

If just the headlight I would recommend doing all the modifications to the wiring inside the housing, Al least you have some room, and nice short runs for your wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was looking to kill the tail and head lights when I am on the trails if not needed and at start/warm up.
 

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I was looking to kill the tail and head lights when I am on the trails if not needed and at start/warm up.
You already have it figured out. To kill head lights and tail/tag lights just pull the head light fuse. Or cut the red wire coming out or the headlight fuse and bridge it through a switch. Switch open = no lights. Switch closed = normal lights.

I do wonder what benefit you expect from this. The gen2 KLR has about 100 watts of power above normal operating needs including operating both high and low head lights. With the high beam off you have about 150 watts of excess power.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I just wanted the option to turn off my lights at start/warm up, when I am stopped to air up tires with my pump that runs on the battery. Also when I am out on the trails if the lights are not needed there. Does the gen 2 make enough juice that I don't need this? Seems to be such a small battery. And I thought the generators/alternators just made enough to "keep" the battery and not "charge" it. Thanks again for all your help.
 

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Keep in mind that if your KLR uses a "SHUNT"style R/R that not using the electricity is bad. As any unused is shunted causing the R/R to run very hot, and in most cases causes failure due to overheating.

I personally would look into replacement LED bulbs first, before anything else
 

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i want to put in a switch that will alow me to turn off my headlights. Can some one help and what wires and were a should tap in. Thanks.
EDIT: Euro/Non-USA switch applicable to Generation 1 only. Your best bet, IMHO: Install a "Euro-Switch!" AKA, "Non-USA Switch:"

http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/online-store?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=190&category_id=50

This component is 'way cool, and plug 'n' play. EDIT: This product is similar (if not identical) to the one described in Post # 11 above.

Don't want to go that far? EDIT: This next product should work with both generations. Here's a lower-cost alternative:


http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/online-store?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=191&category_id=50
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I know nothing on this over heat thing. Motorcycles are simple but complicated. Mmmmmmm.
 

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Well I just wanted the option to turn off my lights at start/warm up, when I am stopped to air up tires with my pump that runs on the battery. Also when I am out on the trails if the lights are not needed there. Does the gen 2 make enough juice that I don't need this? Seems to be such a small battery. And I thought the generators/alternators just made enough to "keep" the battery and not "charge" it. Thanks again for all your help.
Well . . . the alternator and rectifier deliver 12 volts (nominal) direct current to the battery, which charges or "keeps" the battery, depending upon battery charge condition.

Don't worry about the shunt voltage regulator; it can handle the full alternator output, as necessary.
 

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Your best bet, IMHO: Install a "Euro-Switch!" AKA, "Non-USA Switch:"

http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/online-store?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=190&category_id=50

This component is 'way cool, and plug 'n' play.

Don't want to go that far? Here's a lower-cost alternative:


http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/online-store?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=191&category_id=50
Damocles,
I think he is working on a 2014, therefore the 1st switch is Not Plug n Play, fits up to 2007 wire connectors Only!

Second switch, would work. But he has a dash plate with space.
 

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Well I just wanted the option to turn off my lights at start/warm up, when I am stopped to air up tires with my pump that runs on the battery. Also when I am out on the trails if the lights are not needed there. Does the gen 2 make enough juice that I don't need this? Seems to be such a small battery. And I thought the generators/alternators just made enough to "keep" the battery and not "charge" it. Thanks again for all your help.
From what you say above, I don't think the switch is worth while for you. The charging system on gen2 KLRs makes about 240 watts even at near idle. As I mentioned above, for normal steady state operation - the brake light, turn signals and fan are not normally on steadily - it uses about 140 watts including both high and low beams lights. That leaves about 100 excess watts for aftermarket accessories (air compressor, heated grips, heated vest, extra running lights......) plus 50 more watts if you turn off the high beam.

I have had nine flats on the road/in the woods and air the tube up with my 12 volt compressor with the engine turned off.
 

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Damocles,
I think he is working on a 2014, therefore the 1st switch is Not Plug n Play, fits up to 2007 wire connectors Only!

Second switch, would work. But he has a dash plate with space.
Thanks for the clarification, Paul!

I'm obviously blinded by "Generation 1 itis!"

I'll see if I can clean up my previous post with some editing; sincere thanks again.
 
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