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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning the servicing of my bike for my pan Africa trip next year. To organise maintenence i need to understand what parts i am likely to neeed when.

The trip breaks down broadly as:
South Africa - Zimbabwe: 6,000 kms, 90% pavement (service 1 at end)
Zimbabwe - Uganda: 4,500 kms, 50% pavement (service 2 at end)
Uganda - Ethiopia: 2,500 kms, 50% pavement (service 3 at end)
Ethiopia - Egypt: 3,500 kms, 50% pavement

The bike will have 1500kms on it and will be serviced before departure.

I am planning oil, oil filter and air filter changes at each of the 3 services.

My question is how long are tyres, brake pads and chain and sprockets likely to last (and should anything else be on this list)

Appreciate you thoughts.
Cheers
Andy
 

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Tires are highly variable depending upon the tire, type, and terrain. The stock Dunlops usually won't make 7k Km under any circumstances while a tire like the Kenda K761 will usually run about 15k Km.

Stock brake pads should be good for considerably longer than your trip. Again, usage will play a big part. I have gone 30k Km on stock pads.

With proper lubrication a chain and sprocket set should last the length of your trip. 30k Km is not an unreasonable expectation if the lubrication is attended to. By that I mean hand lubing the chain from a squeeze bottle of oil every day or, better yet, a chain oiler. On the other hand, I have had a chain go from good to bad in 400 miles while riding in a heavy down pour. Using a spray lube at the recommended intervals should make the chain last the length of your trip.

I would carry two extra air filters, oiled and ready to go. It's a simple thing to pop the side panel, remove the door, and swap the filter. It might be wise to keep an eye on the filter on those off-pavement legs.

The tool kit that comes with the bike is inadequate. You will need to supplement the kit with an 8mm socket, an extension, a t-handle, tire irons, etc. You should have a spare tube for the front and rear, and a tire patch kit and pump. In short, you should be able to do any reasonable service to the bike from the kit you carry on the bike.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tom, thats really helpful.

I've not decided on tyres yet, i'm leaning towards Mitas e-07 or heidenau k60 scouts.

I was going to have a look at filter skins for some of the heavy off road stuff.
 

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Hopefully others will be along to add their thoughts so you can build a consensus of opinion.

No experience here with those tires, though I know the K-60 is used quite often over here.

I've not used filter skins as it is unusual for me to be out on the road for more than 3000 miles at a time. That's my oil change and air filter interval. For those occasions (rare) where I'll spend hundreds of miles off-pavement I carry a filter. Skins sound like a good idea for an extended trip.

Tom
 

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Most likely a dumb Q, but that's never stopped me before. You have a crutch or a center stand, yeah?
 

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This type of trip is my pastime. Trans-America Trail = 6,800km dirt across USA and 6,500km highway to/from. Trans-Canada Adventure Trail =15,000 dirt across Canada. Mexico to Arctic Ocean and others.

A good o-ring or x-ring chain like the stock chain on a new KLR should be good for well over 25,00 km.

New steel sprockets = 15,00 to 20,000 km or more.

New clutch and throttle cables = 50,000 km.

brake pads = over 25,000 km for long distance riding.

The Kenda k270 tires on my KLR now are at 16,000 km and FULLY worn out on a trip from the Texas coast of the Gulf of Mexico to Canada, a few thousand km on the Trans-Canada Adventure Train and back to the Gulf.

I use the same oil for the engine, the chain and the air filter. I have 160,000 on the original filter. I put the filter in a plastic bag with a little siphoned gas and squeeze it until clean, squeeze out out the gas and add engine oil and reinstall with no wait time needed before riding.

I oil the chain each morning or 600 km with engine oil kept in a small medicine bottle and a tooth brush. I do this with the engine turning the wheel. Nothing but an old tooth brush is at risk.

Tools include:
Small 1/4" drive ratchet wrench with 8, 10, 12, 14, 17mm sockets and a short extension. Also, A short piece of pvc pipe with tire irons inside for a cheater lever.
A 10mm wrench for the shift lever pinch bolt and a small adjustable wrench.
Flat blade and Philips screwdriver
The two stamped axle nut wrenches and the spark plug sock from the stock kit.
The two hex keys from the stock kit.
Tube patch kit, a 12 volt air pump and tire irons.

Spares:
Front and rear inner tube not just the front.
Spark plug
Head light bulb packed with cotton in a medicine bottle.
Chain master link if used.
Fuses. Consider a circuit breaker.
Brake and clutch lever.
Not necessary with new cables but spares strung in place may give peace of mind.

Supplies:
500ml engine oil in a hard plastic unbreakable graduated water bottle.
JB Weld epoxy
Zip ties
Electrical tape
Rubber bands
Waterproofed wiring diagram
Thread locker
Siphon tube
Short length of 14 gauge wire and some wire nuts

Consider checking valve clearances on the new bike and taking one size smaller shims.
 

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Consumables lifespan in my experience:

Chain and sprockets...25-30000KMS

Tires....6000-15000KMS Bridgestone TW21 front easily 12000kms and Metzeler Tourance rear tire...easily 10000kms

OEM brake pads....20000kms
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My trip is getting close and i am planning to order all my parts this week.

I am very grateful for the pointers in this and a few other threads and have compiled 1 shopping list from them all which i will use.

The only question i have left is the chain. I had decided, based on this thread, just to use the OE chain. I fitting an automatic oiler.

However, on my South African bike it appears it has a standard DID chain (not O or X ring). The links are stamped "520 VP2". It also does not (apparently) have a clip style masterlink. A few google searches suggest the standard DID chain may not go this distance, and the VP2 chain my bike has is not the chain DID list as standard for the KLR on the DID website (the 520 VX2).

What do you think? I am minded to change the chain for a 520 VX2 (x ring) to be safe.

It seems this chain can be fitted with either the ZJ rivet link, or the optional FJ clip masterlink (but not the RJ masterlink).

I am minded to go for the FJ clip masterlink (with spare) in case i need to remove the chain for any reason. Sensible or dumb?

However apparently you need a special tool for the FJ link. Anyone got experience of this? I have previously just used a small clamp to squeeze the outer plate on and the used pin nose pliers to insert the clip.

Cheers
Andy
 

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My suggestion: Re-read Post # 8 (and others) on this thread.

Carry a CHAIN BREAKER, and a spare chain of the appropriate number of links, and a clip-on master link, in the event you need to replace the chain on your journey. Spare sprockets, if you want to safe-side to that extent (although worn sprockets can last a long time, permit reversal in an emergency).

I'd expect over 20,000 miles minimum on OEM chain and sprockets, certainly if you have an oiler.

ONE CAVEAT: Adjust your chain tension with diligence; a too-tight chain and a heavily-loaded bike can result in disaster. Plenty of chain adjustment tutorials exist; too loose is better than too tight; and . . . optimum is loose enough to allow complete suspension flexing without stressing the chain.

Most expendable consumables degrade gracefully over a period of time/mileage, with ample warning when they're wearing out (your cue to have parts sent ahead for pre-positioning).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Damocles - i probably went round the houses with my question - sorry for any confusion.

The chain on my bike is NOT an O ring chain, as assumed in this thread (perhaps a different RSA spec?). My question was essentially whether this changes the view?
 

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Thanks Damocles - i probably went round the houses with my question - sorry for any confusion.

The chain on my bike is NOT an O ring chain, as assumed in this thread (perhaps a different RSA spec?). My question was essentially whether this changes the view?
Andy,
The "DID 520 VP2" chain on YOUR KLR650 is Most Definitely the SAME O-Ring Sealed Chain that is fitted onto the 2015 model on my sales floor!
Should be good for 10,000-20,000 miles of use, depending on proper slack!
The bottom run of the chain, Needs to Be Loose Enough to touch the rear tip of the rubber chain slider which wraps around the swing-arm , when the bottom run is Lifted UP!
 

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Pdwestman answered your question about the VP2 chain. You should be able to get well over 20,000 km from it if it gets normal maintenance. Stock steel sprockets should last well over 20,000 km. Don't use aluminum sprockets.

I would not take a spare chain. They are too heavy and bulky. Most bikes from any manufacturer in the 650cc size range use the same 520 size chain so you have a good chance of finding one in any city large enough to have 650 size bikes of any brand.

Filter skins are fine. I bought some and have never taken them on a trip. I just clean the stock foam filter with gasoline in a plastic bag, squeeze it out and oil it with engine oil. Takes 10 minutes. No waiting needed.
 

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I would not take a spare chain. They are too heavy and bulky. Most bikes from any manufacturer in the 650cc size range use the same 520 size chain so you have a good chance of finding one in any city large enough to have 650 size bikes of any brand.
520's a standard size, sure enough; however . . . I'm uncertain how common such chains might be in ETHIOPIA, where the OP intends to ride! :)

(The GDP (gross domestic product) of Ethiopia is, $ 769 per person per year. By contrast, the US GDP is $ 53,000 per person per year. I'd wonder if Ethiopia's GDP supports many 650 cc motorcycles and consequent 520 chains.)
 

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Andy,
One should always lubricate the drive chain on the Inside of the Lower run of the chain, about every 250-400 miles. That's what about every 400-600km?
SAE90 gear oil, "o-ring Approved" Aerosol Chain Lube, Engine oil or even WD-40.
By lubing the inside of the run, the lube has to 'go thru' the chain rollers. With 'o'-ring seals, we are Only lubing the rollers, bushings and cushioning the sprocket teeth. The 'o'-rings seal the factory grease into the rivet and inner bushing area. And seal the water, grit and even fresh Lube OUT.

If one sees red iron oxide, "rust-dust" appearing on the Out-Side run of the chain, squeezing out from between the chain side plates and the 'o'-rings, that means the "sealed in grease" has been worn-out, now the chain rivets and bushings are rubbing 'metal to metal'.
Time for a New Chain, with-in the next 1000 miles or 1500km.
One may need to take-up some chain slack daily at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks. I've bought this:

http://bikegear.co.za/product/cobbra-nemo-2-chain-oiler/

I will set it up to drip oil onto the lower inside run. Given space considerations i'll probably just use the engine oil i am carrying.

I'll not carry a spare chain, just a spare master link. I don't expect to be able to get a suitable new chain on the road if needed but if it starts to wear badly i'll DHL a spare to the next major city. I'll only have 12k miles on the bike at the end of the trip so i am expecting the chain to last.

Interesting to know about the red oxide. Only had one chain wear out on me on my road bike - it didn't leak, but stretched so badly it needed adjusting daily and was running out of adjustment.

Frighteningly i have just had an issue with a 520 vt2 chain on my KTM freeride. Inspected it this week to find no spring clip at all on the masterlink - it has come off somwhere! I'm doing a remote through the night 350 mile trial on it a week Friday so that could have been messy!
 

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I'll not carry a spare chain, just a spare master link. I don't expect to be able to get a suitable new chain on the road if needed but if it starts to wear badly i'll DHL a spare to the next major city. I'll only have 12k miles on the bike at the end of the trip so i am expecting the chain to last.
Your chain should last, IMHO. However, if you must DHL a new chain, and you now have a riveted OEM chain, you might DHL a chain breaker also.
 
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