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Discussion Starter #1
As you may have noticed in my Dead KLR post my battery is shot. I want to go with a lightweight lithium style construction. I read other posts but many are old and some confusing. What brand/model lithium style batteries do you suggest? Thanks.
 

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I have the Scorpion SSTX14AHQ-FP. It is my second Scorpion; somehow I managed to kill the first one which was a Scorpion SSTX12Q-FP.

You can read my tale of woe here, the first of three articles. https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff that i think about/battery-kaput

I have been really happy with the second Scorpion and am quite satisfied (as the articles will attest) with my dealings with BatteryStuff.
 

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I do have the Optimate LI charger but I haven't needed to use it. The LI battery doesn't self-discharge very quickly, so I find I don't even need to put it on maintenance. Of course, I ride it quite often, so that's not surprising and I don't have to put it up for the winter.
 

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you do have to get a special charger correct?
you would if you wanted to charge them but I haven't charged mine yet and they're 3 years old (sit for up to 6 months at a time). Unless you have a parasitic draw, you shouldn't need a charger.....and if you do have a parasitic draw, it will likely kill an LiFePo battery

Dave
 

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My bike is in its 3 year of usage on a WPS Featherweight Lithium Battery. 250CCA / HJTX14AH-FP-Q / 12V48WH. WPS part # 490-2524.

It will maintain 13.1+ V for over 3 months of storage.

To the best of my knowledge, all lithium capable chargers are also maintainers.
 

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I ask. Why do I need a special charger for lithium batteries, if the motorcycle's alternator is the same and gives the same type of charge as a normal acid / lead battery charger?
 

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I ask. Why do I need a special charger for lithium batteries, if the motorcycle's alternator is the same and gives the same type of charge as a normal acid / lead battery charger?
Good question! I've read a plausible answer, but . . . forgot the essence of the response. A warning sticker on a Shorai battery may hold a clue; says to avoid at all costs a battery charger with a high-voltage, "de-sulfation" setting. The "special" lithium chargers may be strictly voltage-limited.

I think, just possibly . . . a special charger is nice to have (maybe extends battery service life), but not essential.

One thing about lithium batteries, in my experience (lithium-powered drills, impact drivers, vacuum cleaners, chain saws, and MOTORCYCLES), these power sources seem rather BINARY: The batteries are either capable of delivering full power, or they're effectively shut down totally--there's no graceful degradation, batteries are essentially ON, or OFF.

True story. KLR650 with Shorai lithium battery, in storage for over 2 years. Rolled out of the storage factility (2 + year-old gasoline; don't know if stabilized or not), and . . . started immediately! After a while, started again. Then . . . wouldn't do ANYTHING. Hardly a glow from headlight, hardly a buzz from the starter solenoid. Battery later charged with an ordinary, garden-variety charger, on the, "2 amp" circuit; now appears to hold a charge as when new.

Oh, yeah. Some tell horror stories of lithium batteries failing in severely cold environments; on the Internet, must be true! :)

Lots of sources for motorcycle lithium batteries; Cycle Gear carries Shorai, from whence the anecdotal battery came.
 

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I understand that the label on the lithium bar., refers to a charge adjustment. It is not an ordinary setting. With the battery chargers it could be if it has two voltage settings 12 and 24 volt.
The charger set to 12 volt. does not exceed 13.5volt. What can be increased are the Amp / hour. At low amperages the alternator output can be replicated.
 

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I understand that the label on the lithium bar., refers to a charge adjustment. It is not an ordinary setting. With the battery chargers it could be if it has two voltage settings 12 and 24 volt.
The charger set to 12 volt. does not exceed 13.5volt. What can be increased are the Amp / hour. At low amperages the alternator output can be replicated.
Maybe!

However, some nominally 12-volt only (no 24-volt setting) chargers have the, "High-voltage 'desulfation'" mode referred to to on the label:



That said, I still have no complete idea of the difference(s) between a "regular" and a "lithium" charger. Looks like Shorai says, "Standard Lead/Acid chargers may be used," anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I ordered a Shorai based on reputation, price and availability from Rocky Mountain ATV. I figure if there is a problem maybe they can lobby for me instead of just buying the cheapest Shorai I could find on Amazon or EBay. In reading the FAQ’s on Shorai’s website it would seem that charging is not needed if ridden somewhat regularly and there is no constant draw on the battery (i.e. clocks etc.) which I’m assuming a KLR as basic as they come does not. It also seems that they can be charged with a regular charger as long as you monitor the charge and disconnect it once it reaches a full charge voltage. Finally if you are worried it seems that they hold a charge so well that you can simply disconnect a terminal in the bleak of winter and it should sit fully charged and ready until spring.

My final decision came when I weighed my current dead lead acid or AGM Insterstare battery and found it at right about 11 pounds even and the Shorai is 2.35 pounds. People will argue who cares but when combined with my other weight loss measures it will make a noticeable improvement.
 

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A stock KLR has no parasitic loss and doesn't require a maintenance charger for an LiFePo battery sitting for up to 6 months in winter conditions.....at least that's been my experience. The weight difference is significant and the easiest weight to lose. Yeah, people say; it's a KLR, who cares about weight.....but that's why my KLR's weigh 40 lbs less than most of thiers! ;-)

Cheers,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Got my Shorai LFX14L5-BS12 installed. It came out of the box with 13.23 volts charge. I put it on my battery tender and carefully monitored it for about 15-20 minutes. When it was showing over 14 volts I disconnected it. I also scale verified that it was about 8.5 pounds less than the Interstate lead acid it replaced. The actual case is smaller than stock so I added several pieces of the lightweight adhesive foam to keep it nicely cushioned and snug. Time to ride.

It’s amazing. The bike leaps to life, rails like a KX125 in the corners now and wheelies down the straights in 4th gear!!!
I can hardly keep the tire on the ground.

Don’t you hate how people inflate their gains when upgrading? In all seriousness the headlights seem brighter and cranks quicker but could be because of my old battery was dying. To me, between the battery, pipe, led signals and tail light, KXF fenders, removing a large bag of useless crap etc the bike doesn’t feel so ponderous when I lift it off the stand, move it in the garage, turning transitions etc. it also pulls the front wheel easier on rises and seems almost enjoyable in the woods with perfect conditions.

Was it worth $150 for a battery? That’s up to you to decide. If it’s a garage queen or you just like a sedate cruise up a country road probably not. If you’re like me and ride varying conditions, off road and like a fun supermoto like rear slide now and then absolutely worth it. gonna try to weigh it on a truck scale verified by comparing my own body weight to see where it actually weighs in now. I’m guessing all together close to 20+ pounds off with most of that up high where it makes the most effect. I do have a large bag of useless stock KLR crap that neither I nor the next owner will probably use.
 
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