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2008 KLR. Out riding today and it sounded like it was missing as I rode it got worse. It starts idles and revs just fine but when you are riding and give it gas to speed up it will surge like it is running out of gas. If you ease it along it will gain speed. It never quit rode it home and put in a new plug no change. What do you think?

Tom
 

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1 day. Rode Sunday afternoon. Got gas and then rode about 20 miles no problems. Rode about 5 or 6 miles today before it started acting up.
 

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When I pulled the tank to install the new plug I opened the fuel valve and nothing came out. I pulled the valve and it was not stopped up. But when I would move the tank it was almost full of gas I could hear it whistle venting through the gas cap. What should I check?
 

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When I pulled the tank to install the new plug I opened the fuel valve and nothing came out. I pulled the valve and it was not stopped up. But when I would move the tank it was almost full of gas I could hear it whistle venting through the gas cap. What should I check?
It's a vacuum operated petcock, fuel wont flow unless you apply a vacuum to it (like cranking the motor over).

Maybe you got some crud in that last tank of gas that partially plugged the high speed jet? Also, check to make sure that the small vacuum line on the petcock is on all the way and not cracked/ leaking vacuum.
 

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Glad ya caught it early.

The problem is going to be small so please be patient with all there is
to go over. Tiny split in the crappy (quick to dryrot) vac lines, piece of crud as
Stew and Damocles alluded to, sticking tank vent? My '09 has had most of the
rubber replaced by now and your bike is that age too. You'll see cracked rubber
behind the headlight boots, stuff that isn't even exposed. The octopus can be
affected by leaks too. After replacing hoses started to get annoying, I removed
and capped the entire vac system.

It's a great bike and that's why we all own one. The rubber and factory grease are
weak points other than the doohickey which usually gets the spotlight. The rubber
started falling apart on mine in two years. The boot over the ignition, everything.

A few feet of fuel line will redo all the vac and gas tubes, and leave extra for a T mod.

My way was a 9 inch fuel line, period, done.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Glad ya caught it early.

The problem is going to be small so please be patient with all there is
to go over. Tiny split in the crappy (quick to dryrot) vac lines, piece of crud as
Stew and Damocles alluded to, sticking tank vent? My '09 has had most of the
rubber replaced by now and your bike is that age too. You'll see cracked rubber
behind the headlight boots, stuff that isn't even exposed. The octopus can be
affected by leaks too. After replacing hoses started to get annoying, I removed
and capped the entire vac system.

It's a great bike and that's why we all own one. The rubber and factory grease are
weak points other than the doohickey which usually gets the spotlight. The rubber
started falling apart on mine in two years. The boot over the ignition, everything.

A few feet of fuel line will redo all the vac and gas tubes, and leave extra for a T mod.

My way was a 9 inch fuel line, period, done.

Did you replace the petcock?
What is a T mod?
The tank vent under the seat. Is there some kind of check valve in the tank on it?
Sorry to sound dumb but this is my first KLR.
And you are right the rubber is going bad on a lot of stuff. The fuel lines looked ok but I didn't look that good. I will replace the fuel and the vac line first.

Thanks
Tom
 

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Before replacing any lines, you might check to see if they are free-flowing first.

Turn petcock on, apply vacuum to carb port line, see if fuel flows freely from tank.

With carb connected, open petcock and vacuum applied, open carb drain screw and see if carb discharges fuel.

If no or insufficient fuel flow in either case, see if open filler cap makes a difference.

BTW: The Tee mod involves placing a tee fitting in the carburetor breather hose, and routing an auxiliary hose to a protected higher elevation, providing an alternate path for atmospheric pressure to the surface of float bowl fuel. A Generation 1 stock KLR650 will flame-out in a water crossing of 10" or greater depth without this mod.
 

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Damocles covered it.

There are aftermarket non vacuum fuel valves (petcock) but I holed the diaphram
in the stock unit and put it back on with the back nipple capped off.

That was to eliminate breakdown causes, along with bypassing safety switches.
 

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It doesn't run normal with the gas cap open by any chance? That would be real easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks I'll remember that about the gas cap. I fell on the job Wednesday and sprained my left wrist bad. I can't turn a wrench very well and need the bike soon for a ride I plan to attend if I can ride. So I took it to a shop that works on KLR's a lot. Hope they get it right I like to do my own work one reason I bought a KLR. I guess sometimes you just gota do what you gota do.

Thanks for all the help it good to know there is all this info here and people that will share it.

Tom
 

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You might want to check for a sticky choke. If you rode 20 miles no problem, then the next, only enough to warm up before it ran rough, might be the choke. I.e. Runs well until it warms up, then runs rough because too rich when warm.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got it back from shop last Friday. Carb had teach in it. Runs great now I ordered a inline fuel filter from Eagle Mike. That should help. When I do that I intend to open petcock and plug vac to carb.

Tom
 

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Got it back from shop last Friday. Carb had teach in it. Runs great now I ordered a inline fuel filter from Eagle Mike. That should help. When I do that I intend to open petcock and plug vac to carb.

Tom
You do know that if you disable the vacuum operated fuel shutoff that you must then turn the petcock manually to off each time you park the bike.

I prefer the convenience and security of the automatic shutoff. It gets blamed a lot for problems that are not related to it as in your case here where the problem was inside the carb.

In over 125k miles I have only had one small problem with the diaphragm and that did not stop me from getting home to Houston from Inuvik, Northwest Territories in Canada before fixing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Got it back from shop last Friday. Carb had teach in it. Runs great now I ordered a inline fuel filter from Eagle Mike. That should help. When I do that I intend to open petcock and plug vac to carb.

Tom
You do know that if you disable the vacuum operated fuel shutoff that you must then turn the petcock manually to off each time you park the bike.

I prefer the convenience and security of the automatic shutoff. It gets blamed a lot for problems that are not related to it as in your case here where the problem was inside the carb.

In over 125k miles I have only had one small problem with the diaphragm and that did not stop me from getting home to Houston from Inuvik, Northwest Territories in Canada before fixing it.

I know that, been turning the petcock off on a motorcycle since my Honda 90 in 1969. I turn the fuel off on the KLR anyway it's just what I do when I get off me bike. My Shadow doesn't have a vac petcock I turn it off every time. Most don't turn fuel off and have no problems. If the float sticks in the carb and the fuel is on that''s when there is problem. Just teach yourself to turn it off when you get off the bike. Turn off kill switch, lock forks, and turn off petcock.
 
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