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Discussion Starter #1
i'v been trying to install risers on klr to improve the ergonomics of the bike while riding standing offroad....

So i realized that I MUST CHANGE THE CABLES.

Does anyone know where I can get LONGER cables? most cables online says FIT KLR650 but they no mention any length... or if it;'s longer or not.

is there a KIT i can purchase that has it all?
same for the brake line.

thank u
 

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I fit stock cables to a Generation 1 with 1.5" Eagle Mike risers; YMMV. Took some adjustment, and shuffling of handlebar hardware as I recall, but . . . works fine.

Given that YMMV, I think MotionPro fashions custom cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I fit stock cables to a Generation 1 with 1.5" Eagle Mike risers; YMMV. Took some adjustment, and shuffling of handlebar hardware as I recall, but . . . works fine.

Given that YMMV, I think MotionPro fashions custom cables.
Can you please show or send me some pictures of your install?

[email protected]
 

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You don't need longer cables. There, breath a sigh of relief.

You need to free the cables on the left side from the loop on the handlebar and set them so they only go through the triple tree loop.

Flip the throttle control over to gain length on the throttle cables; those are the tightest ones. Flipping them will give you all the length you need.




Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You don't need longer cables. There, breath a sigh of relief.



Tom
Thank you Tom,

How about the brake line, choke cable and electric wires? I'm not worried about the electric wires much, i'm mostly worried about the choke cable and maybe the clutch as well.


for the choke cable, did pull out from that welded loop they have it in?
please post as many picture as you could! i'll be greatful,
I have the same risers to install, i was very bummed to see that i could not fit it and i was about to return the risers.

How do you flip the throttle wires? .. do i have to disassemble the whole assembly and rotate it?

I will look at it some more on friday!.
 

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The left side stuff has plenty of slack in it, no real worries there. Just get it out of the loop on the handle bars, but keep it in the loop on the triple tree. I have aftermarket bars, so can't really show you much more there. I don't have a choke cable any more, but didn't have a problem with it when I did.

To flip the throttle, start by removing the tank.

Disconnect the cables from the carb (pull the cable ends out of the throttle plate bracket and remove the cable mounting plate from the carb) and free them from the frame.

Remove the mirror/front brake and get it out of the way.

Peel back the rubber boot on the throttle housing and loosen the two screws on the throttle housing and rotate it 180 on the handlebar. Remember that they are JIS screws, so use a JIS screwdriver so you don't strip them (or dull the tip of a Phillips and proceed with care). Position the throttle assembly so that the cables are routed snug under the kill switch housing.

I can't remember if the stock bars have a loop for the kill switch cable or not. If it does, get it out of the loop. The cable has enough slack.

Fiddle with the throttle cables to get them nicely routed and untwisted (though they will have a half twist in them from flipping; position for smooth routing). Route them back along the frame and re-secure. Reconnect them to the carb.

Re-install the mirror/front brake. It may have to be rotated forward a tad.

If you need some pictures with words and arrows on them just let me know what you need and I'll shoot them.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The left side stuff has plenty of slack

If you need some pictures with words and arrows on them just let me know what you need and I'll shoot them.

Tom
your description is great, but I NEVER say NO to pictures :D. please share if they are available.
I will probably film the procedure when i do, and put it on utube. for others to benefit! :D.

but it DOES sound complicated. I did know i need to remove the tank again.
i took out the tank yesterday, it was easy.
so you dont think there are any issues with the choke cable?
should I keep all cables in the triple tree? i was thinking to route the short ones outside it, on the side of the fork
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
i just saw that you already gave feedback on the choke.
is it easy to replace the cable with the ON-CARB choke?
 

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You can route outside the triple tree loop if you have to, as long as you're sure it will not hang up when the forks are turned.

It sounds complicated, but it really isn't all that bad. It becomes rather obvious when you're in there. I suppose it could be done without removing the tank, but I felt it was necessary to do in order to nicely route the cables.

As to the on-carb choke, there are lots of options. GoMotor had a very good set-up in a recent post. http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/51938-choke-enricher-relocation.html

Here's what I did. http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/47425-stead-engineering-choke-conversion-kit.html

Mine is a bit fiddly to reach in and pull, which is why GoMotor's approach is so good.

Damocles' solution is good as well and is obviously very easy to work.

Tom
 
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Discussion Starter #10
You can route outside the triple tree lolution is good as well and is obviously very easy to work.

Tom
Thank u! will wait for more pictures.

thank you for the support.
its very hard to take that bike offroad without risers. my back is suffering and i dont have great control on it when going in sand or rocks.
 

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...my back is suffering and i dont have great control on it when going in sand or rocks.
Have you considered using an aftermarket bar?

I am using the ProTaper Pastrana FMX/ATV Race bar and find it quite comfortable. ProTaper Handlebars Size Chart - Motorcycle Superstore

These are the approximate stock bar dimensions:
Width 810 mm
End Rise 75mm
Center Rise 75mm
Center Width 205mm
Pull Back 100mm

vs.

Pastrana FMX:
Width 800mm
Height 121mm
Rise 70mm
Clamp Area 236mm
Sweep 55mm

They are taller by about 45 mm. With the pull back at about half, your wrists are less turned in.

You may find a better and more comfortable fit with an aftermarket bar.

I'm spending your money freely here, but also like the Highway Dirt Bikes top clamp stuff and their handguards. http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=top_clamps_9/8&sid=mrl414v824ubtu8kb63wfvo4jr1bcs2f
http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=catshow&ref=handguards_00



Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Have you considered using an aftermarket bar?

Tom


tom thank you for the motivation! .. i did it :D. and it was successful. i added the 2" riser without even removing the tank.


i had to undo the clutch cable at the bottom and top by the hand bar, on the bottom, my clutch cable was going in between the radiator hoses, thats where i got my extra lenght.

the choke cable i ran it between the tank and handlebar, instead of thru the front bracket.
same for the kill switch cables,
brake line was fine and lighting cables were fine :D.

im all good now.
i just need to get the quick release bolts so that i can easily adjust it when i go off the road or back onroad.

these

and these are the risers i used
Universal Aluminum 2 Inch Pivoting Handlebar Riser For 7/8" &1 /8" Bars Clamps
 

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Discussion Starter #13
here is some pix
 

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Way to go and good work!

Tom
 

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Just to add to the knowledge base here: I just picked up a 2016 KLR with 800 miles on it and am sorting out the cabling to the bars because I can't go full lock to the left due to binding. I found four reasons for this binding on left lock. This is what I found and how I fixed it:

1. The front hydraulic brake line was getting pinched between the right fork tube and the most rearward bar of the front cowling mount. Zip tying the brake line just to the left (as you are sitting on the bike with the front wheel pointed straight ahead) of the right fork tube solved this one.

2. The electrical wires from the ignition switch run down the right side of the frame backbone and were binding. They run to a connector which Kawi shoved in a nacelle up in the frame backbone. A great place with 100% protection. However, they shoved the end with the ignition wires into the hole first, and thus made the wires to the ignition switch too tight. I pulled the connector out of its nacelle in the frame, reversed it, and put it back in. This left ample slack in the wires. (Note that the connector for the wires to the starter button/kill switch run to a connector also stuffed into this nacelle. As these wires were also somewhat tight, I reversed this one at the same time and gained comparable slack. Not a left lock issue but good to have to eliminate wear points).

3. The clutch cable is supposed to run UNDER the ignition switch, but there is so much slack in it that when one turns the bars to full right lock, the cable pops out from under, and rests in front of, the ignition switch. When you now move the bars to full left lock the cable stays wrapped around the *front* of the ignition lock and binds. The fix: there is a metal cable loop coming out of the front of the frame steering stem just under the ignition lock, though there are no wires or cable through it (probably a vestigial loop from the '80s :) ). I loosely Zip-tied the clutch cable to this metal cable loop with the ziptie loop diameter at about 3/4 inch. This holds the clutch cable below the ignition lock when turning to full right steering and eliminates binding when going to full left lock.

4. The front hydraulic brake line is held by a connector on the left side of the lower triple clamp just prior to running down the left fork leg. This clamp was lightly hitting the radiator frame mount before the bars hit full left lock...lightly, but enough to concern me. I took off the clamp with the intent to bend it, but it was strong axially and my vise is inoperative, so I put it back on. Fortuitously, when I tightened the 10mm nut it put transverse force on the bracket and bent it slightly downward....and moved the connector 2mm and eliminated the conflict.

My bars now go full lock to lock, as they should, and I have not worries about wires or cables being crushed or tensioned, or wear points.
 

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its very hard to take that bike offroad without risers. my back is suffering and i dont have great control on it when going in sand or rocks.
You've gotten good advice from Tom and the others. you don't need longer cables for anything up to 2" and you shouldn't go beyond that anyhow.

Many will disagree and everyone is built differently but very few people actually NEED them and the proper position (control wise) is the attack position which isn't helped by risers. Fixing the footpegs (moving them down and rearwards) is a better way to go IMO and helps standing offroad.

My bar riser post:


Many people confuse comfort with control.....while bar risers may make you more comfortable, they usually hurt the ideal offroad ergonomics ....which is why Chris Birch, Scott Summers, David Knight etc. recommend against them. In fact, Chris recommends against them for people participating in his riding clinics

https://www.facebook.com/ChrisBirchN...4464811963123/

The problem with the KLR is that the bar mounts are on an angle rearward rather than perpendicular to the forks.....bar risers that just add space to the mounts further cramp the cockpit by bringing the bars closer to the rider which is a bad thing. Rox or similar adjustable risers that allow the bars to be placed closer to the forks are the only type of riser I would consider and they may actually improve ergos on a KLR unlike most bikes.

As to the rest; people vehemently defend the use of risers saying they are too tall, etc. but most would be better off without them...and maybe comfort is more important than performance on the relatively uncompetitive KLR "playbike" though I personally believe that the closer you can get to the ideal riding position, the better, regardless of how "spirited" you may ride your KLR.

Me? I'm an old, ex-offroad racer and run my KLR's without risers though I found bar replacement to be highly desireable due to the stock bars' excess width and pullback. I use Renthal RC-Hi's (809-01's) and am happy with the ergos, particularly after the installation of my Knight Designs drop pegs which also move the pegs down and rearward.

2 cents,
Dave
 

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Whatever you choose for risers, have someone assist in holding the bars. I did my Rox risers alone and managed to pinch the throttle cable. Now it’s got a “notchy” feel when twisting. New cable in my future sooner than later.
 
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