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Discussion Starter #1
My bike has been having starting issues ... battery (I thought). Put it on the battery tender and its starts fine. Take it for a ride and try to start again after I get home and clicks (no start). Today the tack went wonky a mile from home and again won't start right after a ride. I think it is the charging system (stator). How can I confirm this? 2014 with 23K miles ... is it time for a new stator/regulator? If so, best source for new parts?
 

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You need a VOA meter from an auto parts or electronic parts store. VOA, Volts, Ohms, Amps.

Have you recently messed with the doo-hickey or front sprocket gearing? Could have damaged the alternator wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a multitester and know how to use it ... No, have not been near the doo-hickey or front sprocket ... but the PO has ... this bike is new to me (6 months). I have the doo-hickey tool and an alternate front sprocket so both have been altered.

Watched a couple you tubes on testing the stator ... haven't found one on testing the gen2 output from the stator yet. Is this a common issue (stator faiure) or should I look for a wiring issue?
 

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I'd have to check the service manual but I'd start by checking the terminal voltage with the bike off on a fully charged battery and then again with the bike running at a fast idle. Off should be about 12V with running about 13.7 - 14V. If you measure the terminal voltage with the bike running and it does not go up, the problem is the charging system. Gen 2, the regulator should be mounted on the lforward eft side of the frame, opposite the radiator. I've never replaced one on a KLR but I had to do my VFR twice (they were in a bad spot and did not get air flow so they would overheat) and it was pretty straight forward. Once you half split it between the battery and charging system you can half split it again between the regulator and the generator. Not sure what the input voltage/current should be but if you don't have an A/C voltage at the inlet of the regulator then you have a generator problem. If there is an A/C voltage then the problem is probably the generator or interconnecting wiring. 90% of the time it will be the regulator since the generator is just a rotating permanent magnet... no brushes and not much to go wrong unless you somehow managed to get a short in the stator... could happen but less likely than a failure of the solid state regulator.

Have you measured the battery voltage after a ride? Have you done any maintenance that could have caused a charging issue? I'd also check all the grounds. Sometimes a bad ground can manifest itself as a charging issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Good advice and confirming my thoughts. I will troubleshoot the battery/regulator today and hope I find something there. I will share what I find. Coffee first.
 

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In KLR terms, that is a brand-new bike. It would be very unusual to have alternator or regulator issues.

The tach going wonky is often a sign of a loose battery or ground connection. That could account for the battery starting the bike after a garage-charge, but not taking a charge while riding. You might want to check the tightness of all of the major electrical connections, particularly the battery positive and ground, as well as the frame grounds.
 
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On a Gen 2 bike if your charging system is not working your bike will stop running when the battery is disharged.

I had this problem with the OEM battery, electrolyte got low and my bike just died.

If it's the OEM battery it should be replaced.
 

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On a Gen 2 bike if your charging system is not working your bike will stop running when the battery is disharged.

I had this problem with the OEM battery, electrolyte got low and my bike just died.

If it's the OEM battery it should be replaced.
Even if it's not the OEM battery...it's the best place to start. I bought a brand new battery to make sure I was good for a race at Mid-Ohio. I was chasing the National Championship for AHRMA Vintage Heavyweight. Much to my dismay...my new battery was crap. I missed practice and qualifications as I was searching for a new, new battery....Started in the back of the pack, but rain happened. I like rain...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Battery appears not to be OEM ... Yuasa AGM. Checked the voltage while running. 12.3 ... drops to 12.2 with high beam. Didn't run it long. I will try a couple laps around some country roads near the house and see how low it drops after a mile or two.
 

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Battery appears not to be OEM ... Yuasa AGM. Checked the voltage while running. 12.3 ... drops to 12.2 with high beam. Didn't run it long. I will try a couple laps around some country roads near the house and see how low it drops after a mile or two.
You need to measure the voltage when varying the engine RPM. Reading should be between 13.8V to 14.8V.

This voltage should increase when RPM increase. If not, the rectifier/regulator should be inspected or the alternator output is insufficient.

You will need to follow the steps in the service manual to diagnose the problem.
 

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Battery appears not to be OEM ... Yuasa AGM. Checked the voltage while running. 12.3 ... drops to 12.2 with high beam. Didn't run it long. I will try a couple laps around some country roads near the house and see how low it drops after a mile or two.
Just checked my voltage. New battery 2019. Before starting-12.81v. At idle 1100 rpm immediately after a start 13.1v. At 3000 rpm, hi beam, brake lights, turn signal . 13.9v.
2006 KLR.
 

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Forgot one very important, often overlooked thing...battery connections tight, clean at both ends? A loose/crappy ground will not allow a proper running charge.
 

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I'll tell you that a Good AGM battery should retain at least 12.8 volts for at least 1 hour after charging to 15 - 15.5 volts.

I hate float chargers for re-charging, they go into storage mode too early, 14.2 - 14.5 V. A marginal or severely dis-charged battery needs to 'percolate' for a while at 15+ volts to fully recover.
If they can't Fully Recover, they need to be Replaced!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the reference voltages. I will charge the AGM tonight and make sure all connections are clean and tight and check voltages again.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Been a busy week and not much time to troubleshoot. I tore it down to expose the regulator and it appears that one of the connections on the regulator has seen some serious heat. Both the connector and the blade of the regulator had some melted plastic goo. It was the pin associated with the black/yellow stripe wire. I am going to order a regulator ... any suggestions on the source? Price ranges from $105 to $30 (arrowhead to amazon respectively). I have attempted to attach a pic of the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One other oddity ... the connector has six pins and the regulator only has five corresponding blades ... the blade for the small brown wire was not there. Never was there. Does this mean the PO had replaced the regulator with the wrong part?
 

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As JoeExotic said in Post # 11 above, "You will need to follow the steps in the service manual to diagnose the problem."

The Service Manual (and your multimeter) are your friends.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Found and downloaded the service manual. The diagram in the manual clearly shows six pins. The one on the bike only has five. Failed the first resistance test so I will order a new one ... with six pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So apparently the newer solid-state regulators don't have the voltage sensing pin (hence 5 blades). I did have other symptoms of failed regulator earlier in the week ... low beam blew (I had replaced it a month earlier). All making sense now.
 
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