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'12 Candy Lime KLR
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my new, size 13 boots. As many others here have posted, people with big feet can have a hard time shifting with the stock pegs and shifter. Add me to that group.

So, seems like there are two options: lower the pegs or extend the shifter.

My first instinct was to get a longer shifter. Then I read some comments that since a longer shifter overlaps the side case, if I drop the bike and it hits just right, the shifter might poke a hole in it. The Happy Trailer shifter has a round plate welded on to reduce the possibility, but still, I'd like to avoid any chance of a hole in the side case of my engine.

Then I started looking at lowering pegs. First off, gotta say I'm comfortable with the position of the stock pegs; I've never found myself thinking, "I wish the pegs were lower." That said, since I need to do something to make my boots fit, I thought I'd research them a bit more. One thing I've seen other comment is that while they "fix" the issue with the big boots and the shifter, the position of the rear brake pedal becomes a problem.

So, if you had to pick one of the two solutions, which one would you recommend?
 

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2002 KLR650
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205 Posts
I can sympathize with this but I’m afraid I don’t have a solid answer! I went with the lowered pegs from JNS and shifting is definitely much, much better. I guess I’ve just adjusted to the brake pedal and don’t consciously think about its location much. It’s a trade off, I prefer having a safer and easier time with my shifting versus having my boot wedged/stuck between the peg and shift lever.

I know there’s some adjusting and modifications I can make to the brake lever but it just doesn’t bother me enough... yet. And I feel safe and comfortable with it to live with it versus I did NOT with the shifter.

I think @PeteK had lowered his pegs, not sure if he changed shift levers, perhaps he’ll chime in with his experience.
 

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3,896 Posts
Well, I've tried numerous solutions and so far my favorite is the JNS drop pegs brackets, which IMO put the pegs in a much nicer spot and I can use the stock shifter......I'm a size 10 though, so if you're a 13, maybe you'd still need a +1 shifter though it definitely does stick out farther.

On the brake lever, there have been three different ones over the years as illustrated in our own Tom's article; Post Page Unfortunately you have a 2012 with the cheapy steel lever so you can't use the two prior versions but the good news is that since they are steel, they can be modified relatively easily.

Here's my old post on the subject:

the stock pegs are garbage and I heartily recommend replacing them BUT the stock peg brackets are too far forward and too tall and most aftermarket pegs exacerbate the issue by being wider and taller yet.....this leads to a hearty aftermarket for longer shift levers (which stick out farther and have an additional risk of case damage)

There are several ways of addressing this ergo issue, you can use the pegs of your choice plus;
- 1) plate style drop peg brackets. some are straight down, some are on an angle to position the pegs back. Cheap but they reduce ground clearance and are now the new lowest point - not good when trying to skid the bike over a log etc. ....they also cover the linkage bolt http://www.ebay.ca/itm/KLR-650-Foot-...5VFcei&vxp=mtr

- 2) you can modify the stock peg mounts by cutting and rewelding them in the proper position. Cheap and works great as long as you have the equipment, skills and time

- 3) You can use the JNS peg relocation brackets. Only downside I see is that you now need to remove the brackets to pull the linkage bolt. ...they are more $$ than the other two options. http://www.jnsengineering.com/produc...ring-brackets/ NOTE: I have heard that the drop on the JNS’s is too much for some people’s set up.

OR
- you can use the Knight Designs drop pegs. I have them on both my KLR and love them. Hi quality billet pegs, light and strong. Not real cheap though. About KD Foot Pegs






Cheers,

Dave
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Yep, I put the JNS lowering brackets on both my Gen2 and Gen1. I didn’t think the original pegs were in a bad location, but after reading here, I decided to give them a try. I also have size 13 feet amd 33” inseam.

I like position of the JNS brackets better. They open up the thigh-hip-lower back angle a few degrees, which helps for my olde hips and back, and makes standing on the pegs easier. They also make getting my boot to the shift lever easier. I did have to rotate the shift lever down one spline.

I’m up against the limit for adjusting the rear brake pedal down. So I have to lift my foot off the right peg to step on the brake pedal, instead of moving my toe in and stepping down. I’m getting used to it. Hey, that’s how all Harleys are set up!

All in all. I’m happy with the JNS brackets and think they are worth the $100, especially if you have longer legs and bigger feet.
 

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15 4E and 34" inseam. Lowered pegs, son runs a machine shop and made the lowering brackets, also installed a longer shifter. Couldn't ride it stock with my off road boots.
 

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2009 KLR 650 in red
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I ride with size 14 Sidici riding boots and now that I’ve installed the foot peg lowering brackets and the Happy Trails longer shifter I am finally comfortable and able to accurately use all controls! I adjusted my brake pedal allll the way down but still have to lift my foot a bit. Annoying but haven’t figured out yet any better way.

Btw the Happy Trails shifter is really beefy and does have the large plate that would contact the engine if it manages to bend. I’m not worried about it. The IMS long shifter my ‘09 came with was flexy and thinner 👎🏻
 

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2004 Kawasaki KLR
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19 Posts
I just put the JNS peg lowering brackets on and am very happy. riding position feels allot better. And loads of room on the shifter side. Have not needed to adjust my brake.
 

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2002 KLR 650
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36 Posts
JNS ! Well built! Helped relieve knee and leg ache. Unknown aftermarket shifter that has up and down adjustability. Not sure what the original position was. Cheapo overseas pegs. Sz. 15 Forma adventure boot, 36" inseam, Raising links. Extra 1" high dens. foam in seat and Maddog seat pad. My brake lever position feels great. My shifter lever is comfortable.
 

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So to recap;

- aftermarket pegs tend to raise the footpeg several mm's, exactly how much varies by brand.

- Gen1 brake lever is the lowest and works fine with the JNS drop peg brackets using IMS pegs IME.

- 2008 - 2010 Gen2 brake lever is 13mm higher and can be too high when using the JNS drop peg brackets - the fix is to swap the the Gen1 pedal (which also has a nice pivoting end - note that it is 18mm shorter)

- 2011 to 2018 Gen2 brake lever is steel and has a totally different mounting system. It is possible to retrofit the earlier levers with some work (see the link I posted to Tom's page above) but the easiest solution on these ones is to just cut, modify and reweld.


2 cents,
Dave
 

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2009 KLR 650
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I’m 6’4” with size 13. I went with the Happy Trails longer shifter and found it to be a big improvement. I’m riding a 2009. Didn’t know about lowering pegs but think that it’d feel different with the brake, at least for me. With the stock configuration it was impossible with adv boots but fine with cowboy boots. I don’t ride with anything but the adv boots except for the first few times around the street after I got it. First trip out with proper foot ware was all it took for me to know it had to change. Oh, and Happy Trails is only about 4 miles from my house. They were super helpful and great guys.
 

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Does that Happy Trails lever work for 2022 model? Does anyone know?
US Size 16 Wide, 36" inseam here, would I NEED both, the JNS (when it comes for the 2022 model) + the Shift Lever? Or do you/anyone think that the JNS would be enough?

I'm completely new to riding, so no habits to break, I don't believe I'd mind having to take right foot off peg to use rear brake at all. Long as I never ride the bike stock BEFORE I install lower pegs I should be good.
The parentheses at the end aren't important, more or less just answering the potential question of why I wouldn't want to ride it stock if I change the footpegs, just an answer for the curious out there. (Diagnosed OCD, I don't like change and prefer routine, I plan to install a different sprocket setup (near) immediately of getting the bike, just so I never know the difference to compare it... seriously, I don't like changing stuff [after the fact], it's either a 1 or 0 for me.)

Edit: in brackets, just for clarification.
 
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