The easiest and best way to check chain alignment is to raise the rear wheel with the bike level.(not leaning over) then turn the wheel by hand through about 5 revolutions or so. A driven sprocket perfectly in alignment with the drive sprocket will have the chain roller evenly centered on the rear sprocket teeth. If one side plate has more gap than the other then it is out of alignment. Basically, it is the same principal as the old PTO flat belts on antique tractors. Once you got the tractor and implement lined up together the belt would run true without the need for a sheave on the pulley to keep it on.Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
another way to check alignment (and one I've used for years) is to sight down the top of the chain whilst pushing up on the bottom to remove slack; any misalignment will be obvious and show as a curve.
I already tried to see from above the chain but the chain guard does not allow me to see vertically. Should I remove the chain cover or where do I look?
Sorry if I do not understand well and thanks for the way to do it. English is not my native language.
That is very good advice Dave. I now use that method. Dicky, I still have my chain guard in place. I shine a torch down the chain guard from the rear and sight along the top run of the chain. the torch's light allows me to sight the whole length of the chain.
I assume that any deviation in the chain will occur immediately after the rear sprocket, as the rear sprocket is what will be out of alignment. Is this assumption correct?
Because THIS tells us that you don't need lube: http://watt-man.com/uploads/WD40experiment.pdfIt baffles me that anyone would want to ride with an unlubed chain..