I really appreciate it. I just sent him a text.
M1030B1 restoration in Oregon
I just got a hold of two USMC M1030B1's. A buddy and I are going to restore them. I've already found so many helpful threads on this forum. Once they arrive I'll create a thread for the restoration.
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I busted the tires by hand. Apparently, this bike was ridden without a rear spacer at some point (sprocket side). You can see where the sprocket carrier was scraped away. I plan on replacing all 5 wheel bearings, front & rear sprocket, rear sprocket carrier, and front & rear disc.
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Made some good progress. I replaced all the swing arm and suspension linkage bearings and sleeves, the 4 wheel bearings, sprocket carrier bearing, and the speedo grease seal. I also had to rebend the “ears”. Just for the wheels: new front / rear disks, new front and rear disk bolts, new sprocket carrier (old one got ground up from someone riding without a spacer), new sprocket, new sprocket nuts, new tires, new heavy duty inner tubes, new rim strips, and replaced two missing spacers. For the forks, new fork seals and 15 wt bel-ray fork oil. It came with progressive fork springs. I also installed a new chain slide, new upper and lower steering stem bearings, and Eagle Mike raising links. Just waiting on getting the air box done so I can get this frame into a rolling chassis. I also threw in the Eagle Mike subframe upgrade bolts.
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Started getting the bike into a rolling chassis. I’m using a used Progressive 465 shock I got off a forum member. These bikes originally came with a upgraded Progressive 420 shock but this one is trashed and not rebuildable. Other than that, the only other new stuff that wasn't mentioned in the post prior is new OEM for boots and Eagle Mike 1.5” handlebar risers. I’m missing the two spacers on the lower shock mount. Progressive is mailing them out but it’s going to take a bit. Once that comes in I can get the swing arm and rear wheel mounted. I finally finished cleaning and painting the air box so I’ll get that in tomorrow.
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I went ahead and installed the heat shields back onto the muffler. I cleaned and painted it with VHT high temp flat black paint. I put in a new header to muffler gasket, new heat shield hardware, and a new header to muffler clamp. I also put in a new OEM ignition. The Marines epoxied the key in. Probably a good idea so it doesn't get lost in the first five seconds. I also installed a JNS engineering kickstand foot pad.
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Wow; thier customer service stories are starting to become legendary!
To the OP; nice work
Dave
Got the spacers for the lower shock mount. Got the rear end together and the engine is. I’m going to check the valves, replaced a cracked side cover, and do the doohickey.
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I dumped the oil, replaced the oil filter, and added an Eagle Mike low profile drain plug. Decided to do the doohickey and replaced the left side outer engine cover from an older engine. The spring was broken so I replaced it with an Eagle Mike lever and torsion spring. I also decided to change all of the engine hardware with stainless steel hex head bolts that I painted flat black. This will be a bit of a process. I’m going replace the right-side engine case and check the filter at the bottom over there as well.
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I replaced all of the clutch fibers, clutch springs, water pump gasket, right case gasket. Then cleaned the oil screen (looked pretty good), threw on a Eagle mike oil fill plug, the shift linkage (elongated version), eagle mike low profile magnetic drain plug, and new oil filter. I replaced all the case, water pump, and oil filter hardware to 6mm hex head stainless using anti seize. I also checked the valve specs and one was out and the rest were pretty tight. I used a form I found online to track it and a webpage to do the math for me. I ordered all 4 valve shims from Eagle Mike. Once they arrive I’ll clean up the outside of the motor, install the valves, a new cam chain tensioner gasket ,and then engine will be done. From there I’ll start laying out the harness into the frame. I really want to get this done before July. This engine is unknown to me. It’s from a totaled 2004 KLR I got a few years ago. It had about 20,000 miles on it. With the dohickey, new valve shims, fresh oil and filters, it should be good to go for some time.
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Hey Johnny! So cool what you're doing for these.
I have one 2000 I just picked up, I will attach a picture, and she is ugly for the scant 1020 miles on the clock. I have the blackout light switch still but at some point it got parted out allegedly to wisconsin DNR so I don't have the blackout lights themselves as well as some other electrical parts. How the heck did you find those?
Finally: Is there a way to look up what the correct sticker pack would be for mine? My only clue its real is the frame sticker and the front fender still has its lettering painted over in DNR green, but there's nothing on the tank anymore. I am not ex-military or anything but it seems a shame to return the bike to civilian styling since the frame is already greened out.
Edit: as I read through this thread its answering a lot of my questions so I will leave my questions here + this edit to inform others, lol. I assumed when I bought it I would be on my own with the parts anyways!
Either way: thanks for posting all this, this is going to be INCREDIBLY helpful on my journey!
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I have one 2000 I just picked up, I will attach a picture, and she is ugly for the scant 1020 miles on the clock. I have the blackout light switch still but at some point it got parted out allegedly to wisconsin DNR so I don't have the blackout lights themselves as well as some other electrical parts. How the heck did you find those?
Finally: Is there a way to look up what the correct sticker pack would be for mine? My only clue its real is the frame sticker and the front fender still has its lettering painted over in DNR green, but there's nothing on the tank anymore. I am not ex-military or anything but it seems a shame to return the bike to civilian styling since the frame is already greened out.
Edit: as I read through this thread its answering a lot of my questions so I will leave my questions here + this edit to inform others, lol. I assumed when I bought it I would be on my own with the parts anyways!
Either way: thanks for posting all this, this is going to be INCREDIBLY helpful on my journey!
I’ve been sporadically working on the bike between insane hours at work. The bike will start and run with no issues. Some of the things I completed are the Eagle Mike Raptor fuel petcock (direct fuel flow vs vacuum), new Deka AGM battery, Galfer steel braided front and rear brake lines, Ricochet off road skid plate (this was used to replace the lower brush guards around 2002) new JNS engineering LED headlight, the usual starting system trouble shooting, and replacing all fluids.
Currently I’m waiting on some replacement seat foam from Seat Concepts. Then I’ll recover it in marine grade vinyl. The only issue I have with the bike now, is that the taillight and brake light will not work. The headlight, high beam indicator light, and neutral indicator light all work. The speedometer, tach, and coolant gauge lights don't work. I’ll have to trace through the wiring diagram. Kind of a weird issue to have. I assume it's the ground or a broken wire in the harness.
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Currently I’m waiting on some replacement seat foam from Seat Concepts. Then I’ll recover it in marine grade vinyl. The only issue I have with the bike now, is that the taillight and brake light will not work. The headlight, high beam indicator light, and neutral indicator light all work. The speedometer, tach, and coolant gauge lights don't work. I’ll have to trace through the wiring diagram. Kind of a weird issue to have. I assume it's the ground or a broken wire in the harness.
While waiting on the new seat foam and seat cover, I threw an old one on there. Got the plastics on, the front blackout light, and fender goggle bag. Still don't have power to the rear harness for the tail light / brake light. I do have power in the blue wire for the turn signals. I’m thinking it’s the new ignition switch or maybe the ground still?
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