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M1030B1 restoration in Oregon

34891 Views 177 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  John0311, 
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I just got a hold of two USMC M1030B1's. A buddy and I are going to restore them. I've already found so many helpful threads on this forum. Once they arrive I'll create a thread for the restoration.

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pdwestman said:
A cheap Chinese Imitation ignition switch multi-plug may have improper Indexing of the circuits. I've read it from someone, maybe Foo or maybe Campfire?
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It’s a legit new OEM ignition switch. I don’t cheap out on these restorations. I’ve ordered another one just to try out. I have received new OEM broken parts before.
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pdwestman said:
A cheap Chinese Imitation ignition switch multi-plug may have improper Indexing of the circuits. I've read it from someone, maybe Foo or maybe Campfire?
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I'm running a new OEM ignition. I have received new parts before that were broken. I ordered another new OEM ignition to test it out.
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Why order another switch, when there is a connection flow path in the service manuals?
Those switches are sub-let parts, made by some company other than Kawasaki themselves. Wouldn't be too unusual (Now a days) to find 2-3 wire connections installed into the Wrong locations of the multi-plugs.
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pdwestman said:
Why order another switch, when there is a connection flow path in the service manuals?
Those switches are sub-let parts, made by some company other than Kawasaki themselves. Wouldn't be too unusual (Now a days) to find 2-3 wire connections installed into the Wrong locations of the multi-plugs.
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That’s true. I’ll need it for the next bike I restore any way. All connections are correctly installed and cleaned. Just have to trace the wires down to see where the problem is. It gets a bit tricky since Hayes Diversified spliced into the harness for the IR lights. The harness is still mostly stock though.
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This is something I’ve used on all of my restorations. On the right side of the bike, behind the plastic, is the muffler. Originally the side plastic had a heat resistant pad. These degrade after awhile so I’ve found a replacement. I’ve attached some pictures. I’ve never had any issues with it. Also throwing up a picture of both of my M1030B1’s together.
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Johnnny13 said:
Nothing really fancy today. I got the Deka ETX-15L. It’s a AGM battery that I use in my bike and all of the bikes I restore. It’s only about $75 on Amazon. I also replaced all of the fuses. In the main I use 20 and 15. I know it calls for a 10 but sometimes when you switch the headlight from low to high it blows the fuse. It’ not really an issue with a 15. I also changed out the fan fuse with a 15 and put a spare in there. Just waiting on some of the headlight bracket hardware to hook up everything on the front end and a doohickey kit from Eagle Mike. Then I’ll be ready to fire it up.
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Do you have exact measurement of Deka ETX-15L? I've read somewhere that they are same or even better fit than OEM. Reason for asking is the bike that I purchase came with Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS. Yuasa site measurement is 134mm X 89mm X 166mm. Deka measurement on Amazon is 134 mm X 89mm X 167mm while on www.etx15.com says 150 mm X 86mm X 147mm.
The Yuasa on my bike is so difficult to take out, it seems too tall.
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banditcilik said:
The Yuasa on my bike is so difficult to take out, it seems too tall.
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Yes the Yuasa battery is about 1/16 inch taller than the Original FB brand FB14L-A2 flooded cell battery that the factory used for 31 years.
I have been beveling the top, front/back & RH edge of the black plastic battery covers about a 1/16" thinner, for about 33 of the past 35 years on KLR's. :)
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pdwestman said:
Yes the Yuasa battery is about 1/16 inch taller than the Original FB brand FB14L-A2 flooded cell battery that the factory used for 31 years.
I have been beveling the top, front/back & RH edge of the black plastic battery covers about a 1/16" thinner, for about 33 of the past 35 years on KLR's. :)
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Thank you!
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Johnnny13 said:
This is something I’ve used on all of my restorations. On the right side of the bike, behind the plastic, is the muffler. Originally the side plastic had a heat resistant pad. These degrade after awhile so I’ve found a replacement. I’ve attached some pictures. I’ve never had any issues with it. Also throwing up a picture of both of my M1030B1’s together.
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Johnnny13 said:
I just got a hold of two USMC M1030B1's. A buddy and I are going to restore them. I've already found so many helpful threads on this forum. Once they arrive I'll create a thread for the restoration.
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Johnnny13 said:
Still haven’t had the time to try removing the pivot bolt. The next option is still the brass drift, handheld sledge, Kroil, and the air impact. If that doesn't work we will cut it out.

We also found 6 M1030B1’s being auctioned by a sheriff’s department. I believe they received them under the LE program from the military. We threw out a reasonable bid and won! Not sure if we are going to part them out, sell them or restore a few to sell. Now we just need to work on getting them to Oregon.
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Do you have an extra set of buffalo bars or know where i might find a set? I recently bought at auction a M1030B1 that the Wisconsin DNR had but the Hand guards were replaced with aftermarket guards so the wind screen would fit. I'm trying to restore it back to original
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John0311 said:
Do you have an extra set of buffalo bars or know where i might find a set? I recently bought at auction a M1030B1 that the Wisconsin DNR had but the Hand guards were replaced with aftermarket guards so the wind screen would fit. I'm trying to restore it back to original
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Which aftermarket guards were they? If they were the Acerbis Rally Pro X-Strong brand, those appeared to eventually become standard from several photos I have seen. Same thing with the Ricochet skid plate as opposed to the original tube framed skidplates.
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I'm looking for the military crash bar that bolts to handle bars runs from one end to the other and threads into the ends it also guards the levers and hands
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John0311 said:
I'm looking for the military crash bar that bolts to handle bars runs from one end to the other and threads into the ends it also guards the levers and hands
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I understand. Just thought I'd let you know the Acerbis would still be considered "authentic" or up to spec as they did eventually start fitting them with those.
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banditcilik said:
Do you have exact measurement of Deka ETX-15L? I've read somewhere that they are same or even better fit than OEM. Reason for asking is the bike that I purchase came with Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS. Yuasa site measurement is 134mm X 89mm X 166mm. Deka measurement on Amazon is 134 mm X 89mm X 167mm while on www.etx15.com says 150 mm X 86mm X 147mm.
The Yuasa on my bike is so difficult to take out, it seems too tall.
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I know the Dekas I used for about the same as the OEM. I’ll have measure it to see what the measurements are. I know the batteries I’ve installed where over a year ago.
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John0311 said:
Do you have an extra set of buffalo bars or know where i might find a set? I recently bought at auction a M1030B1 that the Wisconsin DNR had but the Hand guards were replaced with aftermarket guards so the wind screen would fit. I'm trying to restore it back to original
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I don’t have any extra brush guards. No sure what windscreen they put on there since it’s just the 250 faring.
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It's a bolts to the handle bar risers and wouldn't work with the brush guard so they put aftermarket hand guards on to fit and probably threw the brush guard away I wanted to restore it back to the original.
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