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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I JUST PURCHASED A 2013 KLR. IVE BEEN RIDEING IT FIR TWO WEEKS NOW....JUST TODAY FOR THE FIRST TIME...WHILE DRIVING THE BIKE STARTED JERKING THEN CUT OFF. I THEN HAD TO WAIT TILL THE BIKE COOLED OFF BEFORE RIDING AGAIN.....CAN SOMEONE HELP A POOR OLE GUY LIKE ME...THX IN ADVANCE..
 

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First thing, CHECK that the engine oil is FULL with the bike standing straight up & level! If you can't see oil in the inspection window this could get Expensive!

Have you read this yet? DPelletier's common new KLR owner mistakes to avoid

Next, have you yet turned the fuel tap handle forward to Reserve and tried again? Parking on the side stand may have allowed Some fuel from the RH side to the LH side where the petcock is & allowed it to run for a bit again.
 

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also try opening the fuel cap and giving it a try.

where is the temp gauge when it cuts out? is the fan coming on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
also try opening the fuel cap and giving it a try.

where is the temp gauge when it cuts out? is the fan coming on?
JUST ABOVE COOL
First thing, CHECK that the engine oil is FULL with the bike standing straight up & level! If you can't see oil in the inspection window this could get Expensive!

Have you read this yet? DPelletier's common new KLR owner mistakes to avoid

Next, have you yet turned the fuel tap handle forward to Reserve and tried again? Parking on the side stand may have allowed Some fuel from the RH side to the LH side where the petcock is & allowed it to run for a bit again.
THX I WILL TRY THAT..
First thing, CHECK that the engine oil is FULL with the bike standing straight up & level! If you can't see oil in the inspection window this could get Expensive!

Have you read this yet? DPelletier's common new KLR owner mistakes to avoid

Next, have you yet turned the fuel tap handle forward to Reserve and tried again? Parking on the side stand may have allowed Some fuel from the RH side to the LH side where the petcock is & allowed it to run for a bit again.
I WILL TRY ALL...THX
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I JUST HAD A NEW SPARK PLIUG INSTALLED YSTRDY...AND TODAY WAS THE FIRST DAY IT CUT OFF...I ALSO WAS DOING ABOUT 75MPH...WHICH IVE NEVER DONE....THEN IT STARTED HESITATING...THEN CUT OFF....SO I WAITED...TILL IT cooled off....but was only able to drive about to miles before repeating the same routine.....
 

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Fan activation unlikely causes engine shutdown, in my humble opinion.

Engine coolant temperature doesn't shut engines down either, as far as I know, and anyway you say your temperature gauge read, "cool."

Spark plug wire may be loose, inadvertently and randomly depriving engine of spark. Or, you may have another electrical "open," or a short shutting her down.

Compression (you clearly have that), spark (not sure), and combustible mixture (fuel supply availability and/or combustible air/fuel ratio) support the engine. Loss of one or more of these kills it.
 

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Have you turned the fuel valve handle to Reserve YET? Or added fuel to the tank?

but was only able to drive about to miles before repeating the same routine.....
Next, have you yet turned the fuel tap handle forward to Reserve and tried again? Parking on the side stand may have allowed Some fuel from the RH side to the LH side where the petcock is & allowed it to run for a bit again.
Two miles seems about right after lifting off of sidestand.
 

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If it was just above cool when it cut out, it wouldn't be heat related. If you just had the plug replaced I would check to make sure that the cap is securely on the plug. As Pdwestman is saying, you could just be out of gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Fan activation unlikely causes engine shutdown, in my humble opinion.

Engine coolant temperature doesn't shut engines down either, as far as I know, and anyway you say your temperature gauge read, "cool."

Spark plug wire may be loose, inadvertently and randomly depriving engine of spark. Or, you may have another electrical "open," or a short shutting her down.

Compression (you clearly have that), spark (not sure), and combustible mixture (fuel supply availability and/or combustible air/fuel ratio) support the engine. Loss of one or more of these kills it.
yeah...i fixed the fan...that wasnt the problem....temp still rising...still shutting down
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If it was just above cool when it cut out, it wouldn't be heat related. If you just had the plug replaced I would check to make sure that the cap is securely on the plug. As Pdwestman is saying, you could just be out of gas.
thx..i will chek the plug...
 

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I had something similar happen. It's not clear to me from the thread if you validated that the tank is venting. I had the same symptoms when a glop of mud sealed the end of the vent tube down by the swing arm linkage. The mud was actually drawn up into the tube. I was able to clear it after it fully dried.
 

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More than once on this forum a fuel tank that wasn't venting well stopped a bike at speed. What you think was a cooling engine or ignition component was actually the tank slowly easing up on the vacuum created. It's an easy and cheap place to start. Drive around with the cap unlatched. My cap doesn't seal well and I get gasoline dribbling all over when the tank is full and I'm riding hard, but that is another thread!
 

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Two things come to mind from 3 other vehicles...

1. The fuel cutoff diaphragm on my Dad’s 2002 Honda Magna had a tear in it and it would choke like it ran out of gas and kill. Only when warm and 65+ mph. Same happened with our John Deere Lawn mower, though not at 65mph😜.

2. I had a ‘52 Willy’s jeep that started to kill after a 15 minutes running . I thought it was vapor locking since it was a hot day, but that wasn’t it I don’t think. I rebuilt an extra carb I had and swapped it, and it ran fine again. Not sure exactly what went wrong with the other. Maybe a diaphragm or weird effect of a clogged jet at high speeds??? I’m not an expert. Just a average guy that attempts to figure out his stuff when it breaks.

Hope this helps!🙂
 

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Vapor lock! Now that brings out the theories! My Lebaron convertible has a single injector that gets unhappy about hot days and shuts down for awhile only to start back up after sitting too long by the side of the road...

Oldsters always bring up the clothespin trick on fuel lines that is packed with voodoo and poor memories! I, for one, never bought the heatsink on a metal line. I think a slight pinch between 2 pins on a rubber line might do something to pressure and "vapor lock", but I'm not a hydraulic engineer!

So as not to highjack the thread too horribly, I have seen gasoline boil inside my black KLR tank! Very strange...

I killed the vacuum on my petcock and gutted the cap vent. That's motorcycling!

Good luck with your situation!
 

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Vapor lock! Now that brings out the theories!
I don't not believe that it is possible for any Gravity Feed Fuel system to 'Vapor Lock'!

Vapor lock happens in the in-line fuel pumps because the fuel pumps can't pump air, they have lost their prime due to hot fuel air bubbles/vapor. That is why most newer systems submerge the fuel pumps in the tanks, rather than in-line, they only suck air when the tank runs dry. The fuel ahead of the in-tank pumps is always under pressure.

Gravity feed is also always 'Under Pressure', be it ever so slight, depending on tank height. So they can't vapor lock.
 

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Gravity feed is also always 'Under Pressure', be it ever so slight, depending on tank height.
Yeah!

And, you can INCREASE that static pressure by trimming petcock standpipes . . .

Well, don't think so! A well-meaning guy who posted how to convert a vacuum-actuated petcock to a manually-activated one thought so. However, "it ain't necessarily so!"

The static pressure on a KLR carburetor fuel inlet depends ONLY upon the height of tank fuel level above the inlet, as pdwestman states above. Trimming submerged towers has no effect on fuel pressure, KLR-wise.

Yet, . . . True Believers on KLR websites insisted they increased fuel pressure by trimming petcock towers; one inmate on another forum, "proved," this theorem from experimentation in the grade-school class he taught.
 

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10-4 on gravity feed and no vapor lock! Other concepts about static pressure and standpipe height are above my paygrade! I do think about tank height and line pressure every once and awhile because my sweetheart lives underneath a water tower!
 

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I JUST HAD A NEW SPARK PLIUG INSTALLED YSTRDY
hmmm...ive heard the fan i time...wow...i think thats it...
I'd be more inclined to think that whoever installed the spark plug didn't fully seat the spark plug cap.

You earlier said that the temp gauge was just above the cold mark. The cooling fan will NOT come on until the temp needle is above about 9/16 of gauge scale and most people can only hear them setting at idle, never while in-motion.
 

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Take the oil-fill cap off, and smell the oil. It must not smell at all like gasoline.

Another engine I run - on my garden tiller, and not at 75mph - would run for about 15 minutes, then start to pop and fart and buck and snort, and then cut out, and not start again until it cooled off. I fiddled with cleaning carb and checking and re-checking float level height, and still the same. Turns out I had left the gas petcock on for a few months, and gas had piddled past the carb float valve, overflowed into the cylinder, leaked down past the rings, and diluted the crankcase oil. After running for about 15 minutes, the thing got hot enough so that the solution of oil/gas in the crankcase started to boil, and boiled-over through the crankcase vent, and choked out the engine. Changed the oil and that fixed it. Now I turn the petcock off when not running.

I'm not sure if this is even possible on a KLR, being liquid cooled and riding in cool weather the crankcase may not get hot enough to boil a solution of oil and gasoline. And I'm not sure of the crankcase vent plumbing, the crankcase vent must go back into the air filter box, but would a serious barf out of the crankcase vent choke-out the engine and make a non-run condition?

Only takes a second to sniff that oil fill cap. Just don't let the busy-nosy neighbor see you snortin' oil, next thing you know your bike oil will be "contraband".

If it turns out your oil has gas in it, theres the question of if any / how much engine damage has been done by diminished lubricity of diluted oil.

Failing that wild guess, I'd look at the fuel petcock, make sure you have correct operation of fuel petcock. Test with mity-vac. I tested mine, and in the on position with no vacuum applied, it still leaks at a drip-drip-drip rate. I have got to the habit of turning petcock to OFF if not running for more than a minute or so. When I pulled on the fuel valve with the mity-vac, about 6 inches of vacuum opened up a pretty good flow.

Failing those two guesses, I would look at the tank vent. Next time it starts mis-behaving, loosen off the gas-cap immediately, don't take it right off and lose it, just loosen it to let air in.

08 and 09 gen 2's had a kinky piece of harness under the tank that introduced electrical weirdness. I have no idea what that "weirdness" looks like, but if you have your tank off, look for chafed harness at the point that bends when you turn the bars left/right. My 08 had a hole in the harness looming, but the wires are ok, some more looming and tape and Ty-Raps made it better. Your 13 should have had that wonky harness routing corrected.

I know we're all fishin' in the dark here, but sooner or later someone will solve the puzzle, I'd be interested to find out what the end-cause is.
 
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