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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks,
I've got a three weeks trip in few month so i need to transform my sleeping for too long tengai on a rallyraidproof bike.
I will put some picture and text of my work but for now i've got a little problem with it (this is the reason why it sleep for some year on my garage).
Let me explain, a few years ago, after a 300km trip (sorry impérial users), i stop at a friend house and at the time to start my bike something went wrong. As i press the start the engine wont go, so i press again, and again but this time i Keep pressing it and after 30sec or so, i heard a VERY loud bang that scared all people around (and myself as i didnt understood at first that this thing was my bad), even my friend came out his house...
I've Never been the wisest of the band so i tried starting it again and first press, first sec start, everything fine.
Since, its always the same procédure to start it, 30sec press, big bang and Real start only after...
As i was wondering what's wrong, i've changed the KACR spring as it was cheap (i was a student at this time) and hoping it would do the job but of course it didn't make the cut.
From this time the bike is sleeping so i need to figure it out before spending some cash on it.

Does this speak to someone?
 

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I feel the need to suggest that you need to invest in a proper service manual for your bike.

The USA (english) service manual is part # 99924-1113-02.
Could the original OEM Kawasaki service manual be acquired thru French dealerships?

Read the LINK in this link and then watch the videos, "Care And Feeding Of The CVK40"

Do you have the tools to properly measure the engines Cold Cranking Compression? Did you measure & record the valve tappet clearances when you replaced the KACR spring?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks mate, i've got an E.T.A.I. one that is not the best one i recon..
to ad some context, i've bought this bike just after passing my license and my only preocupation was to ride it :rolleyes:
i got it for 300€ because it wasn't running, so i cleaned the carb and a jet was cloged. i put it back on after looking at the level of floater and it run perfectly. i've rode it couple month before this banging story.
thanks for the link, i'll rebuld the carb (perhaps klx needle or 22cents mod, but after)
i'll check compression and valve clearance as soon as i can, effectively this is the first step before any other. that said once it's started, the engine run great, top speed about 170km/h on the speedo.
if i succesfuly get it starting at first try without waking up all the neighbourhood, i wiil do the doo and more mods to it.
this tengai is stock, about 40k km, all fairing are repaired (poorly but i wonder if i can do better) i'll put some pics in few comments

i'm preety aware that my problem had to do with the top end engine, after resolving this problem i plan to clean al port and see cylinder and piston condition too
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I forgot to ask, did this happened to someone before ? Did you have a theorie on the causes of this detonation ?
 

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A partially fouled spark plug could cause the sharp report thru the exhaust system. I've heard it/seen it more than a few times on different engines over the years.

This is easily over-looked by long distance mechanics, because we usually install a new spark plug after performing a proper cold start compression test which we need to do to Confirm the engine is mechanically sound enough to justify further work. ;)
 
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@pdwestman if my bike was running fine a few months ago (even though I let it sit, procrastinating), any reason a 20k mile '04 would need a compression test? The only issues I had as a daily rider was slight power surging in higher gear around 60-70mph which I heard was common on stock KLRs. I don't know much about compression testing nor what it entails except that I think I did it to a 4cyl 'yota like...10-15 years ago. I lost my garage a bit after, so never got to continue my auto-fantasies.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
27013


So, today i've got some time to start working on it.

First, the plug, oily but it still spark. I'll change it anyway

20200907_193947.jpg
New Gazoline, new batterie, and it's running :p
Great but i'm still worried by the bang as i don't know if it can happen again.. can you please explain me how a dirty plug can cause the detonation? For my understanding 🧐
20200912_215324.jpg
I've also performed a compression test (i will check valves clearances tomorow for a cold engine accuracy)
Open throttle with KACR normaly in place i'm aboutit 80PSI
20200912_200809.jpg
With KACR disabled it goes up to 160PSI, it's not that bad but not great either ( i was not expecting Good results)
20200912_200728.jpg
I dunno, part of me want to put out the head, check piston and bore, clean the head, put news vittons and gasket. The other want not to risk damaging some working condition stuff..

But first, valves clearances and (probably) new shim
 

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Blaze, Adjust the valve clearance to the upper end of specs & re-check CCC with an active KACR. 100 to 125psi with an active KACR is great. 160 psi with a DE-Activated KACR is very acceptable IMO.

Pig and the Pen, EVERY engine of questionable starting or running issues needs a Cold Cranking Compression test to confirm the engine is NOT worn beyond serviceable limits.

Takes a mere 2 to 3 minutes of total time, per cylinder, unless frame parts cause access issues on some bikes (if the bike is already undressed & you have the proper tools) .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, i've make the valves clearance test, intakes one are not so bad, exhaust one are way too low...
A is for admission french word for intake, g is for left d for right. P for pastille french of shim
27029


Accordingly to some calculator, i could take my exhaust shim to replace the intake one, and i need two 2.4mm for the exhaust one.
2.60 for intake is a bit too high, i probably loose some torque but it could do the job or i need 2.55 one?
27031


27032



I will do a new ccc with new shim on it. Thanks Pdwestman, i'll fell lonely without you ^^ 160 Psi is ok for me too, i was not as entertenaid (entertaid? Sorry) by 80psi as it on the low spec limit
I still believe that is not directly about the big bang on my bike... but new shim are just necessary.

Subsidiary question, i've a 4.6ah li-ion battery and a mosfet regulator laying around, as my acid one (14ah) is not in great shape, can i swap it or it's not gonna make the cut?
27033
 

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The shim calculation looks fine.

I don't now enough about lithium batteries to make a suggestion. If an application chart suggests that size for 650 class single cylinder motorcycles, it should work fine. Those batteries are potent little buggers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This week-end i've put on new shims, and made a new compression test. With KACR on i've made it to 105 psi,
27093


Better, but without KACR i'm still at 160psi.
Now i've got a weird thing, after bolting up the engine, i started it, and after a minute running, the engine was hot and the beginning of the exhaust was cherry red... dis i make something wrong ?
 

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Your engines KACR is working "exactly" as it is supposed to, to make life easier for the light weight starter, starter gears, sprag clutch and battery. It should start great in any tempuratures which I would care to ride in with 105 psi of CCC, if everything else is correct.

Was the cold start enrichener still pulled fully on and running 1500-1800 rpm when you spotted the Glowing exhaust head pipe? I'll call that Normal.
Unless the cylinder head is from a Gen 2 model and has an open exhaust Air Injection System hole near the spark plug, which needs plugged.

Did you measure the engine warmth? Was the cooling system full? The KLR engine is One Giant Radiator, it really can't get very warm in 1 minute or even 5 minutes if it has a normal operating oem cooling system.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Pdwestman, the choke was on so i dont worry about it. I'll rebuild the cooling system anyway.
I don't have a lot of time to work on it but little by little i go ahead.
Now i've stripped everything down, everything need to be cleaned lubed torqued
28691


I've also made a motorstand in a rush with some scrap laying around, not pretty but it do the job
28692
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had a hard time to put out the knuckle bolt , three weeks of daily penetrating oil but it came out
28694


Rusty isn't it? That what i've found on the frame after the removal
28695


I've also build a wrench for the rotor in order to do the doo and change the balancer sprockets
28693


The plan is to put some post 96 one's on it

28696


So i put them with their respective washers but there is a play on the shaft, does it need some proper washer ? I can't find information on it
 

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I've also build a wrench for the rotor in order to do the doo and change the balancer sprockets
View attachment 28693
Damn, you're a good welder. (y)


The plan is to put some post 96 one's on it

View attachment 28696

So i put them with their respective washers but there is a play on the shaft, does it need some proper washer ? I can't find information on it
@eaglemike said "The later one piece parts are drop in, although one has to add a couple of washers to keep everything spaced properly."

I'm sure that if you wait just a bit he will come along and will be able to explain which washers and how many.
 

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The plan is to put some post 96 one's on it.

So i put them with their respective washers but there is a play on the shaft, does it need some proper washer ? I can't find information on it
I snipped just to keep the post short.
If you look at the parts fiche on Kawasaki.com, you can find the info. Start with owner center, then parts, then parts diagrams, and use the drop down list for the year of that engine, you can even print out the page with the exploded view and the parts list. (make a notebook?) Then do the same for the 1997. Then compare the part numbers. You'll need the entire part number, not just the reference number in the exploded view. I could look up the part numbers, but if you do it, and get familiar with the system, I think you'll be better off. Right this minute I think it's 3 total washers you need, but it might be 2. When you are working on this, sometimes a washer will look like part of the bearing until you pull everything out of the assembly (you likely know that since you've done it, but people reading later will not). I think all but one of the washers actually has the dimensions in the parts list. If you can't get the parts, and don't see the dimensions, let me know. I have many in the stash of used parts, and can measure them if needed. You are far better off with the one piece sprockets. Kawasaki doesn't supply the shorter idler shaft, bearing and sprocket any more. If you take 2mm off the left side main case where it sits, you can used the later parts there. It's easy to see, basically just make it flush.
The timing of the weights has been discussed several times, but ask if you have questions. Good luck! Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
@Tom Schmitz
thanks, but to be fair, it's tig welded and on such thickness it's easier!
By the way, your website is goldmine and your vids on cvk40 helped me a lot! i'll talk about it later, for now i've a dumb question for you, i've read your article on clutch evolution but with my limited english comprehension i'm not sure to understand. So, can i put a post 96 clutch cover directly on my 89 engine or i need to change the clutch basket too?

@eaglemike
thanks too, i already use theses diagrams a lot, whenever i need to know the diameter or length of a bolt, or in that case which spacers i need.
on the older than 96 we have: on the front (lower) sprocket a 3mm behind, and for the upper one a 1.5mm on the front
on the post 96 we have: the same 3mm spacer behind the lower sprocket , and a 2mm behind the upper one with the same 1.5 on the front.

i've put all 3 spacers, on the lower no problem, it's flush, on the upper there is a little play (much than the old one) like it would need a 0.5 more , but maybe its normal, isn't it?

i've realigned on the timing marks, is there a subtility i need to know?


finally, i want to thanks you because you saved one more klr (y)
28793
 

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@Tom Schmitz
thanks, but to be fair, it's tig welded and on such thickness it's easier!
By the way, your website is goldmine and your vids on cvk40 helped me a lot! i'll talk about it later, for now i've a dumb question for you, i've read your article on clutch evolution but with my limited english comprehension i'm not sure to understand. So, can i put a post 96 clutch cover directly on my 89 engine or i need to change the clutch basket too?...
Yes, you can put a post '96 clutch cover on the '89. But remember that you will need to have a post '96 clutch lever to go with it. The early clutch lever had a different configuration and was held into the clutch cover with a set screw arrangement.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Tom, exactly what i wanted to read !!

I finally got some time to do the doo
28995


I feel like a true KLRISTA, my life is complete now!
Joke aside, the cover is back on, the left side is done, i've changed the countershaft seal at the same time (flush to not obstruct oil flow 😉)
So it's time for the right side, the waterpump is rusty, i've broke a bolt (even with wd40 for days and some gentle hammering to break it off)


28996


I've also broke a bolt during the clutch cover removal, although same care.

28997


Now i'm a little embarassed, but luckily i can have some grip on it.
I plan to dremel a slot on it to put a flat screwdriver, and to heat the case with a butane torche. Does it sound good? I fear to burn some seal (maybe)
 

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I'm not much of an expert on getting busted screws out of spots like that (mostly because I am a firm believer in anti-seize compounds and I take stuff apart so frequently that I have plenty of opportunities to apply it) but the arsenal for removal includes PB Blaster and time, ViseGrips, a mini-torch, impact tools, left-hand drill bits, and EZ-Outs. They get used in that order and I almost never use the EZ-Outs.

I think the slot and heat idea is a good one. My latest impact tool is one I'm getting pretty good with. It's a Ryobi P235A Impact Driver. I haven't tested its maximum torque (the specs are not to be believed) and it is not adjustable. It does have a variable speed trigger. I have managed to learn how to make it do one impact, so it is quite controllable. The old hand-held impact driver is a good tool, too, as you can twist it to pre-load it, then give it little love taps to break small screws loose. Even a decent sized screwdriver makes a good impact tool if you give it a healthy twisting motion as you strike it.

That area should be fine to use the torch on. There are no seals nearby and you have the mass of the motor mount there. Butane torches are fairly precise anyway. Don't heat the case, heat the screw.
 
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