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Possibly 'Bell Driver'?
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Nop, missed! I'll respect his choice and keep my mouth close forever 馃榿
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
Pdwestman, look at the end of this article:Post Page

So i've made it a bit forward!
I've broken my clutch arm
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Managed to repair it
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On its final form
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A grinder make you the welder you ain't as we say.

My starter motor needed some care too, so I opened it, the brushes where fine but a lot of dust in it, so a good cleaning and new oring made it back on the engine
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Now carby time
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A good cleaning, with a great help by Tom's video's , a ultrasonic bath and it's good to rebuild, my air cut valve was pocked so I've put a new one , with a MCP kit with tumbscrew
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My only concern about this kit it's MCP updated his instructions suggesting to go 2 size lower on main jet with exhaust dbkiller. I've give this kit a try because it was complete, no need to source parts elsewhere but finally I still need to find a new jet.
I'll adjust that when the engine will be back on frame. Now I consider the engine part done. A lot to do next, stay tuned
 

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klr 650 c
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Looks like upper weld near the cable attachment part left some undercut or porosity after grinding, hope it is not deep, otherwise good job, it is hard to weld those thin pieces...good luck with the carb, I like the mixture screw!
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I could have grinded it a bit more i agree, but you dont feel it when you pass your finger on it, so I stopped to that point, cause it's easy to grind a half millimeters too much ^^ and it feels smooth. The hardest part when you tigweld is not the thickness, it's the positioning, you need a mass on it, something to hold each pieces on position and perfectly true, something to keep it steady with good orientation, a well cleaned and dry part,and finally enought space to put the torch on it. On 6cm square piece :oops:, it would be easier to migweld it for sure. I'm pretty confident about solidity!
 

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klr 650 c
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Dont know how to tig, I use gasless wire with cheap dc machine, I am sure I would have made a bigger mess with all the splatter hihi, good job馃憤 just look at the frame welds on our klr-s, some look like the robot just continued to weld past the connection point hihi
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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I don鈥檛 mind the weld beads sticking up visibly. I鈥檇 rather have the strength. But you can grind away the top welds to make it pretty, and leave the beads on the bottom for strength, where no one will see them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
C model, you know how to weld, that's already a good thing! I'm sure you weld far better than kawi bots 馃槃

PeteK, I agree with you although I am a grinder guy ;) I've let underneath beads, just grinded a bit to not obstruct cable retainer. Just to say if you try to break it, it will break on a non welded area for sure.
 

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klr 650 c
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Those bots were drunk when welding, I had to weld also a muffler to pipe conection on klr, it was rusted and cracked, if You see rust forming on that spot clean it and repaint with high temp spray, previous owner kept it outdoors all the time...
 

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Pdwestman, look at the end of this article:Post Page
Well, I believe that I did say that the information that you NEEDED was in that article.
Even if it turned out to be the contact address. :)

But I have a question, have you ridden it yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
You where right all along :D
No the engine is still on my desk, do I need to worry about something? Clutch seizes ?
 

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do I need to worry about something?
Not that I am aware of.
I'm always a little apprehensive about any job until after the first start & first test ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
I feel the same, I hope I could crank it ASAP to figure it out, but I've still got to rebuild all other parts... arf
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Oh I found that on sale, I didn't buy it for now but it's funny because it's an real kawi ad and it says that the tengai is 48ch (and also that it have wonderfully powerfull brakes 馃槃 )
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klr 650 c
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It had better brakes then A model at the time, larger disc and twin pot caliper(single pot on A) on 160kg bike, those old twin pot caliper are sometimes sticky, mine on C model had one pot stuck a bit(did not travel out as the other when brak was pushed), the brakes were bad, when cleaned everything works ok, had the aftermarket replacement o rings for them bud did not changed them, they looked fine and no leaks.Oh and the "dime mod" made the biggest difference, no more crazy amount of freeplay in lever
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Yes totally, to be fair my brakes look like tit need some care.. what could replace a dime here in Europe?
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It was more the 48ch thing that made me laugh, I wonder how they came with this number..

Anyway it's forky time!!

So I took my fork apart and a A too. I didn't take precise measurements as belldriver have already done that perfectly.
The upper one is the B
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You can see some differences but one thing that belldriver didn't show you is one less recess on the lower B as there is no grooved washer on the cane rod
The B :
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The A one
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The plan is to use the A uppers with the B lowers in order to have more travel and a bit more ground clearance than stock tengai, but to keep the better brake and lower fender.

I cleaned the B lowers
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Put some coats of 2k varnish cause I will not take it apart anytime soon!
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I cleaned the A uppers and this is what I keep
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And this is what I change
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The hybrid fork was also motivated by the fact that cogent kit isn't compatible with the tengai fork. I presume that the drop in cartridges could be put on tengai, but not the springs. Anyway I put everything back together, added some 5w oil and It's done.
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I've also cleaned the oem boots (?) Its written" Made in France " on it. I'm somehow patriotic ^^ not worth the time cleaning but it will do it for now.
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Big one I have to say. But it will probably be one of the most useful and worth the price mod.
 

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klr 650 c
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Damn, nice operation if You have managed to merge the forks together, looks like a good weekend project, I would be in doubt how much oil to put in that mutant, probably the amount that A model needs. And those are adjustable fork caps so You can squezze the spring a bit more馃榿 Nice, nice, just test it if everything works ok, You dont want it to stick or wear something inside. I substituted dime with I think 13mm brass washer, I forgot the thickness, have to take it out to measure it, but I think a better idea is brake lever with an adjustable bolt which pushes the master cylinder, I am always in doubt if the washer moves and sticks and I have no brakes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Thanks Cmodel, yes it's an A fork with some tabs in fine. I have the same concern as you about the dime mod, I'll probably give it a try!

I have to say I've somehow slipped with this project, at first my goal was to give it a good clean and make it reliable again. But the more I've took apart the more it needed a rebuild. So here we are:

My rusty frame
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I've welded some tabs for a skidplate
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And some for side paniers
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I cleaned all the rust and put a rustproof primer
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And finally put some layers of rustproof direct gloss cold epoxy.

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The subframe pic is more accurate on the true color (hard to take real pics), a bit darker and less greenish than the original. Now it has to cure for some days. One step closer to rebuild.
 

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klr 650 c
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Can I send You my frame and fuel tank to spray it?馃榿 Nice job on that frame, looking forward to see the bike assembled.
 
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