Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
By sharing my difficulties with the recent install of an oversized piston, I run the risk of exposing my incompetence, having already been accused once of poor workmanship being the root of the problems. But poor workmanship gets better when we learn from our mistakes and if I share my mistakes with the rest of you, I might pass on something helpful.
After I got the bike back together, it ran well but left a pool of oil on the floor. One source of oil I knew was the fact that I had a couple of stripped bolts on the valve cover and couldn’t tighten it down. A couple of thread inserts and it still leaked. It seems one of the bolts was bottoming out too soon. An additional washer on the top side of that bolt and some Permatex 2 around the top of the bolt took care of that. But, there was still that puddle of oil.
I got a spray can of Gold Bond foot powder and sprayed the left side of the engine which was where the oil was coming from. The trail led to a weak spot in the crankcase gasket. I tried to solve the problem by apply Automotive Goop over the area, but it didn’t really work, though less oil was leaking. I decided to replace the gasket, which meant I should also replace the gasket on the stator cover.
I replaced both of those gaskets and the oil drip was now reduced to a very little drip, but it was still there. A closer look disclosed the final problem. The stator cover has two little rubber grommets which allows the wire a leak proof way to the stator. It is tricky to get these two grommets into place and stay in place as you put the cover back on. One of them was a little out of place. Off came the cover again and these two grommets carefully kept in place as I put the cover back on. No more oil leaks and the bike runs well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
One thing I would add: A most helpful piece of equipment for your shop would be one of those auxiliary gas tanks that hold about a quart of fuel and hangs from the ceiling so you don't have to put the gas tank back on in order to start you engine while working on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,646 Posts
Also . . . Cycle Gear and other vendors catalog a small "test" fuel container; more-or-less not unlike a closed funnel with a line to connect in place of the regular fuel line to the carburetor . . . makes it easy to connect a known supply of "righteous" gasoline to the engine for testing . . .

And then . . . DARE I say . . . STARTING FLUID has its diagnostic place, IMHO (have fire extinguisher handy!).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,009 Posts
Also . . . Cycle Gear and other vendors catalog a small "test" fuel container; .... . . . makes it easy to connect a known supply of "righteous" gasoline to the engine for testing . . .

And then . . . DARE I say . . . STARTING FLUID has its diagnostic place, IMHO (have fire extinguisher handy!).
:surprise:
Carburetor cleaner is a little safer to spray around the carb of a running engine with possibly a leaky exhaust pipe also. ;)
(Still best to have an extinguisher handy.)

Water is the safest, it will slow the rpm instead of increase the rpm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
You can also use propane ( with the torch not lit ). Do it out side with a fire extinguisher handy. Clean, no stains and won't take paint of things. Use common sense.
Rick
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top