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Discussion Starter #1
So just recently bought my KLR and was quite a bit impatient to test my skills off road, instead of waiting for some crash guards and other protection.. Well, to make a short story shorter: I laid it down and the whole brake pedal bent back up against the foot peg, I was able to bend it back a little bit so I could at least put the peg down. I was wondering if you all had a good place to get a stiffer, more durable brake pedal? Or is it better for it to be more maliable so as to not break other things? Also busted up my fairing pretty good, any advice on that (i know crash guards:/)? Thanks for the help!
 

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People will tell you that it's better to bend the brake lever (or shift lever, etc.) than to have a stronger one that may not bend but they'd be wrong IMO. The cheezy Gen2 brake lever was changed from a better forged aluminum lever for cost reasons only. I spent many, many hours straightening cheapo OEM steel levers on various XR's, DR's, CRF's etc.

I'm not sure if you could retrofit the better Gen1 lever but if you take your lever off and put it in a vise, you should be able to straighten it to an acceptable level.....may not look as pretty but it will work.

Cheers,
Dave
 

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And yes, if you're going to be riding your bike offroad you need some "stuff";

- a real skidplate is highly recommended; JNS or Ricochet are my suggestions

- crash bars

- hand guards and, while your at it, a decent set of aluminum bars are also a good idea. I use Renthal RC-Hi's

Cheers,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Dave!

I ended up just using some pliers and wrenches to bend it back to a comfortable, more acceptable position. Do you have any suggestions on what aftermarket brake lever I should get? Or should I just try to find the Gen 1?

I definitely won't be doing any off-roading until I get some protection for the bike.

'Preciate it!
-Devon
 

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I very much doubt there is any aftermarket lever available. You can try the Gen1 lever but I think the pivot setup is different so there may be some modifications required.

Dave
 

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Gen 1 brake pedal Will Not fit a (late model) Gen 2. Totally different in the pivot portion.

Straighten your wounded pedal, install a quality skid-plate, install a "Brake Snake" lever saver cable between the skid-plate & the brake lever. Do the same on the gear pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Gen 1 brake pedal Will Not fit a Gen 2. Totally different in the pivot portion.

:surprise: Straighten your wounded pedal, install a quality skid-plate, install a "Brake Snake" lever saver cable between the skid-plate & the brake lever. Do the same on the gear pedal.
That is a great sugestion, will do with the new skid plate. Thanks!
 

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The Gen 1 brake pedal was unchanged from '87 to '07 and is a great way to lower the pedal (to match lowered footpegs) on a Gen 2 up to 2010.


Conversely, if the pedal on a Gen 1 is too low, then installing a Gen 2 lever can cure that. Much better than installing a slippery carriage bolt through the pedal.

I haven't had a chance to look at an '11 or later set-up and I wonder if the method of attachment is just simpler but the boss on the frame is near the same diameter as the old 43004-1120 part. If that is the case then it might be possible to install an earlier pedal if the splines can be easily drilled out and the return spring accommodated.

I feels a useless knowledge project a comin' on.
 
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I think you should Tom! (easy for me to donate YOUR time to satisfy MY interest! LOL)

Not a Gen2 guy so just so I am straight; the 2011 was the first year for the cheapy steel lever and welded frame mount fitting correct? So the Gen2 2008 - 2010 use the same frame mount and shaft as the Gen1's but a different lever, right? ......the early Gen2 lever is aluminum as well, correct? - of course it would require the same mounting mods that a Gen1 lever would...

Thanks,
Dave
 

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I think you should Tom! (easy for me to donate YOUR time to satisfy MY interest! LOL)...
I've been thinking on doing this ever since candubrain had his issues with the brake lever.

...Not a Gen2 guy so just so I am straight; the 2011 was the first year for the cheapy steel lever and welded frame mount fitting correct?..
Yes, 2011.

...So the Gen2 2008 - 2010 use the same frame mount and shaft as the Gen1's but a different lever, right?...
Yes, they do.

...the early Gen2 lever is aluminum as well, correct?...
Yes, it is.

... of course it would require the same mounting mods that a Gen1 lever would...
Yes. The Gen 1 and Gen 2 levers seem to be identical aft of just before the splined pinch hole. Forward they are a different shape with the pedal heights being different.

I'm just guessing until I get parts in my hand, but the mod should be a) making a boss to wrap the spring around, b) making a short bushing to make up for the thicker lever, c) modifying the spring for engagement with the lever (or the lever for engagement with the spring), d) opening up the hole to fit on the frame boss.

What could go wrong?
 

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Nothing! :)



Thanks for the info; I thought I had it straight but wasn't 100% sure. So did you use a Gen1 lever to lower your brake to better suit your JNS peg relocation brackets?

Dave
 

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Yes, I did. The Gen 1 also has the special-wonderful high-speed-racing pivoting pedal. Very shekzy.

Hold my beer and watch this thing.
 
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Ive installed aftermarket footpegs on my 03 KLR, but now my brake pedal Is way too low. Did someone say you can put a 2011 or later pedal on the GEN 1 to raise it up? will that fit? I'm scouring the internet for an aftermarket brake pedal tip to raise mine but can't find anything.
 

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Ive installed aftermarket footpegs on my 03 KLR, but now my brake pedal Is way too low. Did someone say you can put a 2011 or later pedal on the GEN 1 to raise it up? will that fit? I'm scouring the internet for an aftermarket brake pedal tip to raise mine but can't find anything.
Personally, I think this gadget is a gimmick and way over priced, but here it is. Supposedly, it offers an increased footprint area and a riser.

I would think a guy could fab up his own homemade riser pad in the garage for much less.

https://www.amazon.com/AltRider-KL11-2-2532-DualControl-Kawasaki-2011-current/dp/B01MZGBAKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550507589&sr=8-1&keywords=klr+650+brake+pedal
 

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Ive installed aftermarket footpegs on my 03 KLR, but now my brake pedal Is way too low. Did someone say you can put a 2011 or later pedal on the GEN 1 to raise it up? will that fit? I'm scouring the internet for an aftermarket brake pedal tip to raise mine but can't find anything.
use a 2008 - 2010 lever as it is a bolt on but a bit higher and longer.....you do lose the nifty folding tip. 2011+ levers are completely different and are cheapy steel units. Thanks to Tom, here's a link to all you need to know; https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff that i think about/all-about-rear-brake-levers-yes-there-s-a-difference


Dave
 

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use a 2008 - 2010 lever as it is a bolt on but a bit higher and longer.....you do lose the nifty folding tip. 2011+ levers are completely different and are cheapy steel units. Thanks to Tom, here's a link to all you need to know; https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff that i think about/all-about-rear-brake-levers-yes-there-s-a-difference


Dave
After all that I liked the last part about a couple saw cuts, bending and weld up the cuts after. About a 20 minute job and costs about nothing more than time.
 

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Personally, I think this gadget is a gimmick and way over priced, but here it is. Supposedly, it offers an increased footprint area and a riser.

I would think a guy could fab up his own homemade riser pad in the garage for much less.


Yea I was looking at that but apparently it only fits a 2011 and newer. Thats why I was curious anyone knew if that 2011 would fit on the GEN 1?
 

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After all that I liked the last part about a couple saw cuts, bending and weld up the cuts after. About a 20 minute job and costs about nothing more than time.
The cut-bend-weld is the only help for 2011+ and it is easy to do because that lever is steel.

The earlier levers are aluminum, so welding becomes more complicated for the average fella. If you don't have a MIG welder you'll spend more than the cost of a second-gen aluminum lever to modify your first-gen aluminum lever.

Unless you find a MIG welder who works for beer.
 

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Yep, what Tom said;

- the Gen1 lever and early Gen2 alum lever are far superior but don't try to modify or weld them

- the 2011+ lever is easy to modify as it's just a "playbike special" mild steel stamped unit.


Dave
 
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