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So ive done all the carb mods jetting. Still pig wont run away from its shadow. Debating on gearing it down. But tring to avoid it. If i could only cram a 1000cc super sport moter in it. But doesnt fit. So any ideas to really have drastic effect on power. Open minded. Not afraid to wrench. But tired of getting stomped on by little kids peddling there little legs faster than my moto can go. Lol.
 

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What are you trying to accomplish? You could put a 14T on the front if you're just trying to lift the front wheel, it won't be as nice on the highway.

I have an '01 with stock air/carb etc. and with a 16T on the front I can still get the front tire to lift if I want to; and I don't even know how to ride worth a damn.

You could also look at the 685 or 705 kit for the engine but it seems like you may have to lower your expectations! :ashamed0001:
 

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+ 1!

First of all, it IS a KLR! :) Even the most ambitious KLR650 hop-up won't approach the out-of-the-box power of, say Husqvarna/BMW/etc. 650 singles.

Not sure what expectations may exist, but . . . increasing displacement, IMHO, offers the best hop-up bang for the buck. A reliable path toward obtaining more power remains: Processing more combustible mixture per unit time. Sad, but true, fact-of-life.

Another approach, seldom discussed in KLRdom, is: Improved combustion efficiency through raising compression ratio. Then, there's the old stand-by, reduce intake and exhaust restriction. Supercharging?

Altered valve timing? A trick cam can shift the horsepower and torque curves about the rpm axis, but a cam alone offers little, if any, net gain.

Regardless, approaching the peak horsepower of a stock Rotax 650 cc engine appears to me a challenge.

If you just want to multiply torque, change your gearing.

Best wishes, whatever hop-up path you chose.
 

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So ive done all the carb mods jetting. Still pig wont run away from its shadow. Debating on gearing it down. But tring to avoid it. If i could only cram a 1000cc super sport moter in it. But doesnt fit. So any ideas to really have drastic effect on power. Open minded. Not afraid to wrench. But tired of getting stomped on by little kids peddling there little legs faster than my moto can go. Lol.

Bought the wrong bike son.

Cut your losses now, sell it and buy a hyperturbobusa.
 

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+1

I'll say it again. I've learned that the best way to get more power is to simply change the lettering on the tank from KLR to KTM.
 

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I agree, if you want a fast bike, the KLR is not for you. It's got plenty of git up for me. That said, my weight fluctuates between about 205 and 230 depending on how much I work out and how big of an idiot I am with food.

I've ridden Tom Schmitz' bike with the 685. Smoother, but not "fast". I rejetted, mods, etc. Losing 15 lbs is about your best bet if you have a need for speed. No joke. Still won't be a rocket, though.

And I assume you're talking top speed? I like how torquey the KLR is and I don't need to go faster than 90 MPH indicated on my bike. I actually see that as kind of an advantage. Keeps me honest.
 

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How fast do you want to spend? You can wring out some more HP out of this archaic engine but it costs MONEY, even if you do your own wrenching...
 

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How fast do you want to spend? You can wring out some more HP out of this archaic engine but it costs MONEY, even if you do your own wrenching...
That's a good point, and well said. But then you're getting pretty close to making a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

I think the cheapest option is selling it and getting a different bike, honestly. No offense intended. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Not after a death ride. I bought it brand new in 2011. I only weigh 165. Cant afford the tickets anyways. Everybody always talks about different mods for running leen and such. But never anything about serious gains in raw power. Not after wheelies so much but would be fun if it actually did one.. It was my first on road scoot. Always was a dirt rider. Great bike to adjust to street with. Probably try the 14 tooth front sprocket first and work from there. Make it a bit more snappy the old ways.. I dont do much freeway. 60 max. Mainly back roads or highway. Weekend trips up to the gates of Mt. Rainier or Capitol Forest. So 30 miles maybe.
 

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If that's the case you might be rather pleased with a 14T front or even changing the rear a little. It will give it a lot more grunt!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Guess that's the better way to put it not power just more snap or grunt. I love the Klr just want a little more pickup. Lol
 

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Hi No Power!
Same as you, I was less than impressed with the moderate power of the KLR. You have most of the cheap mods done except for the exhaust cam advance aka the MC mod. Mixed results reported, Worked great on my '03 not so much on my '11.

What you are up against is flow through the restrictive head. Porting and bigger valves cost $$$. Nearly every other mod is related to trying to get more flow through the engine. Even to go big bore is marginal without doing the head work. Look to Schintz racing and Eagle Mike Manufacturing for more info. Along with the head, be thinking exhaust. My '03 has a Lexx silencer. Not too expensive, not too loud, better flow.

The other thing you are up against is the bike itself. 430lbs is big weight for a 35hp low perf motor to accelerate. I scaled mine on the way back from a long trip fully geared up. 825lbs, bike, rider and gear. It will cruise 70mph all day loaded like that and still do some reasonable off road as well. It's not a dirt racer and never will be.
Best Regards....justjeff
 

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Earlier, I expressed the OPINION, hopping up a KLR to a level approaching the out-of-the-box horsepower of similar-displacement motorcycles would be a challenge.

Although expressed as OPINION, not FACT, my scholarship remains incomplete without some justification for that opinion.

Thus, I share some REAR WHEEL HORSEPOWER figures, measured by Motorcycle Consumer News (February, 2014 issue), an independent (no advertising) magazine:

KTM 2013 690 Duke: 61.97 HP
KTM 2010 690 Duke: 59.71 HP
Husqvarna 2013 TE630 (not sure about model designation): 47.39 HP
BMW 2003 F650 GS: 44.20 HP

And now, KLR entries:

Kawasaki 2008 KLR650: 36.10 HP
Kawasaki 2006 KLR650: 34.00 HP

So, can the KLR650's horsepower output be increased? Definitely.

Can the modified KLR650's horsepower equal or exceed that of more-highly-stressed factory stock engines? A hard row to hoe, IMHO; YMMV! :)

Disclaimer: Again, I expressed an opinion, not a fact. And, I did not consider the power potential of the PCV valve mod in my analysis! :)
 

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Not after a death ride. I bought it brand new in 2011. I only weigh 165. Cant afford the tickets anyways. Everybody always talks about different mods for running leen and such. But never anything about serious gains in raw power. Not after wheelies so much but would be fun if it actually did one.. It was my first on road scoot. Always was a dirt rider. Great bike to adjust to street with. Probably try the 14 tooth front sprocket first and work from there. Make it a bit more snappy the old ways.. I dont do much freeway. 60 max. Mainly back roads or highway. Weekend trips up to the gates of Mt. Rainier or Capitol Forest. So 30 miles maybe.

If your used to riding modern dirt bikes that yea the KLR is a slow, heavy pig in comparison. The KLR hasn't changed significantly since it was introduced 25years ago. So a better comparison would be to dirt bikes from the 70s.

The KLR motor has a heavy conterbalancer system that takes all the snap out of the throttle response. You can't do anything about that. You can increase the rear wheel horsepower somewhat. If you throw a thousand dollars into the motor you'll will be bumping 45 horespower. Yea the motor will pull stronger but it still won't have the snap to clear a tripple jump! Not that you would want to try that with the anemic suspension on the bike.

That's another thing the suspension is old tech also. Yea you can put cartridge imitators in the forks and get a nicer shock but it won't compare to modern suspension

... and then there's the brakes, and it's heavy, and it's carborated, etc.

So I guess the point of all this is either you accept the KLR for what it is or move on to a different bike. Complaining about it's limitations, err... features especially on a KLR forum shows that you didn't understand what you were buying. Not to knock on you but can you see where we are coming from?

Try the 14 tooth sprocket, it's cheap and doesn't require anything other than adjusting the chain. If that doesn't go a long way toward what you expect cut your losses now, seriously.

Oh yea don't try that tripple on a KLR, double seriously! :HappyRoll:
 

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Disclaimer: Again, I expressed an opinion, not a fact. And, I did not consider the power potential of the PCV valve mod in my analysis! :)
My "seat of the pants" dyno test for the PCV mod as me gaining 10HP!!!!:8:
 

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As a friend said on another forum; If you are looking for high performance, you need to jack up the gas cap and roll another bike underneath it.
 

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As a friend said on another forum; If you are looking for high performance, you need to jack up the gas cap and roll another bike underneath it.
ha! :doublethumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah ordered in the 14 tooth spocket, new chain, wheel bearings and a new speedo since mine broke. Plus all the tune up stuff going to try the iridium plug. Spring is near so get it all done while she's tore down. Thanks for the info. Good to know theres not much else I can do. So might as well just enjoy what I can.
 

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May the iridium plug fulfill all your expectations! :)

Men say, when installing new chain, best to replace BOTH front and rear sprockets . . .
 
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