A couple of weeks ago I purchased a new 2009 klr 650. The dealer started it and test rode before I picked it up. When I got there it started right up. Trailered the bike 3 hours home and it refused to start, cranked on it till battery was almost dead and it finally started. replaced the spark plug, bike sat a couple of days and same thing. Tried it again today still did not want to start. Once the engine is warm it starts easy. I checked the compression on a warm engine and am only getting about 40 psi. When it is idling you can hear a ticking noise in the motor.
Choke is working correctly. After doing some more reading it sounds more like it might be the KACR compression release. Anyone know if this is a problem on the 2009 read about several 08's.
Mine was real hard to start the first time few times I rode it,almost killing the battery like you said yours did.Didn't do anything to it.After the first few rides and a 100 miles or so it pops right off now.Maybe you just need a few more miles on it.Had a great ride this afternoon,about 50 gravel miles along the scenic Little Sioux river.300 miles on the OD now.
Mine did the same thing andI thought what's going on. I now have 1700 miles and it starts and runs great. The only thing I've changed is added a LEO Vince X3 pipe. I didn't add the pipe tll after break in but it was already running great.
Hi vwh20, welcome to the forum. Looks like we have another Mountaineer.
A coupla thoughts on the hard starting.....the compression test will be hard to do with any accuracy, due to that KACR. A KACR holds an exhaust valve open when starting your engine. At the RPM's the engine would operate at to pull a compression test would not be valid, unless the KACR was disabled.
These engines come with a very lean set carburetor from the factory. this lean air / fuel mixture can be remedied by resetting the air / fuel mixture screw, allowing for easier starting. Without actually seeing, smelling and hearing what is going on on your end, anything else would be speculation on my part.
One thing you might try. Next time you try starting the engine cold, try hooking up jumper cables from a car battery to the bike. The car should not be running. See if it fires up easier with the jumper hookup. If it does, it may indicate a weak battery. It may crank the engine, and do so for a considerable period of time, and yet not have enough oomph to crank the engine fast enough to fire. Traditional battery testing would reveal the same thing, I suppose. An '09 bike could well have a three year old battery in it.
I have tried about every position on the choke and the only way to get it to start is full choke with no throttle. Fully choked it will try to fire but only hits once each time I hit the starter button, if I give it throttle it will just backfire. After cranking on it till battery is almost dead it will finally start.
Tried the jumpercables this morning didn't help. I am going to try doing the 22cent mod and the fuel mixture screw this afternoon to see if that helps any.
Not that far from the mailbox LOL just lacking in a quality dealership around here. The mechanics make McDonalds wages and could care less about scratches and dents or what ever else they break. I took my honda Rune in for a tire change and they scratched the wheel and chiped the paint off the fender around every bolt they took out. So if anything is a simple or cheap fix I will just do it myself instead of messing with the dealer
Not that far from the mailbox LOL just lacking in a quality dealership around here. The mechanics make McDonalds wages and could care less about scratches and dents or what ever else they break. I took my honda Rune in for a tire change and they scratched the wheel and chiped the paint off the fender around every bolt they took out. So if anything is a simple or cheap fix I will just do it myself instead of messing with the dealer
I completely agree with you EXCEPT when something's new.. That's when the dealer's responsible for the product (I don't care if it's a blender, pellet gun, or motorcycle) to be correct, and any damage they cause to a new product is also their responibility..
Again, it's up to them to make it correct, or replace it with something that is correct. It's new.. There is no other option when it's a new product.. If they can't make it correct, they should reimburse you with the price of the bike, and you can go buy another one from a dealer that's worthy of your business..
I understand where you're coming from.. I go to a dealer an hour from me, because the one that's 10 minutes from me isn't worthy of my business.. I could care less if they went out of business tomorrow, because in my world, they're not really there. I'll pay someone a bit more if they have customer service. That's why I'm travelling an hour to another dealer..
I have had zero problems starting my '09.It is in a cold garage(spring please hurry to PA).I put choke on full,open fuel petcock,it starts. I switch my battery tender back and forth from the KLR to the DL1000. Hope this helps....
I did the 22 cent mod and air fuel mix screw it was only 1 turn out. Bike started a lot quicker but, it is starting to warm up a little so I will give it a try in the morning to see if it still starts good.
Tried starting the bike this morning and it fired right up, so hopefully it was just running to lean and the 22 cent mod fixed it. Does run a lot cooler temp gauge only runs about a 1/4 way now did shoot right up to 1/2
That's weird...my temp guage never moved except sitting in traffic in the heat. Until I got the ThermoBob I wasn't sure it even worked.
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