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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All
Just picked up a Very Nice 2009 w/12K miles. Also own a 2006 KLX modified to a 310 So far I'm pleased with the KLR.
Currently deciding on saddle bags, either Wolfman Monarch Or Motocentric Touring. I have a Motocentic roll bag for the rack and it's great quality. The bike came with Wolfman hoop brackets and the hoop bags that I can use up front on the HT Nerf bars as well so Wolfman would attached prefectly. Also need to correct jetting as it has a Uni filter with Lexx exhaust. To date the .22 mad has been added but feel the KLX needle with a 150mj would be preferred set up.
All comments welcome.
Thanks and looking forward to my years with the KLR!
 

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Welcome!

I'm a 5000 to 11,000 foot Klr guy so I could be,way off..

Seems like a 150 Keihin jet would be too rich with the KLX needle. I see a lot of posts where folks are using a 142.5/KLX setup. At sea level. Leaner at my altitude.

Jets are cheap and easy. I might try some smaller ones in addition to the 150 Keihin just to see how it goes
 

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Somewhere, someone MUST have developed a main jet size TABLE, reconciling Keihin and Dyno;Jet main jet numbers; perhaps with actual bore diameters!

If not, you out there, Normk? :)

My point: The main jet number, and the actual orifice size, depend upon which manufacturer is involved. don't know whether the proposed 150 jet is Keihin or DynoJet; chances are, '150" main jets are different sizes, depending upon manufacturer.

Just sayin'!

:)

BTW; agree with Uncle Wray: Based upon Internet chatter, 150/KLX needle sounds rich, assuming Keihin jet.
 

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I found this table online. Problem is that there are about 50 more of them and they don't line up.


DYNOJET KEIHIN
DJ122 135
DJ124 138
DJ128 140
DJ132 142
DJ136 145
DJ140 148 (stock main jet)
DJ142 150
DJ144 152
DJ146 155
DJ148 158
DJ152 160
DJ155 162


Was figuring that we were talking about Keihin jets 'cause I didn't catch Dynojet needle in the post. From this chart, a DJ150 would be over the top rich even at sea level.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the relies!!!
I found this:
KLX Needle Kit

For 1987-2008 KLR650


Assembly Notes:

• The small brass collar/spacer goes above the circlip. Do not install it below the circlip. It will make the bike too rich.
• Needle clip position numbers are counting from the top down. The top or #1 position, is full lean. The lowest position, or #5, is full rich.
• Be very careful not to damage the carb slide diaphragm. Inspect it carefully. Replace it if you find any tears or pin holes. A replacement is available through Harley Dealers for much less than the Kawasaki part.
• When reassembling the white plastic needle retainer, make certain it is not obstructing the slide lift hole. When seated correctly, there wil be very little vertical play in the needle.


Jetting Notes:

• The KLX Needle is much richer than the stock needle. If nothing else is changed, it requires a smaller main jet, and leaner mixture settings that a stock needle. It is also slightly richer than the Dyna Jet Kit.
• A good Baseline setting for a total stock KLR.
o #140 Main Jet
o #2 Clip Position
o 1 ¾ Turn Mixture Screw

• Removing the airbox snorkel may require a #142.5 main jet, and/or using the #3 clip position.
• A less restrictive exhaust system, and/or air box mods, may need a main jet in the #142.5 to 150 range. The stock main jet (#148 for 87 to 07, #145 for the 08) often works well. It may also need the needle circlip in the #3 or 4 position.
• Exclusive use at higher elevations, over 5000 foot, may need a main jet of 1 to 2 sizes smaller. A stock bike may need a #135 or 137.5. Removing the snorkel is highly recommended for all KLR’s, but more so when used at altitude.
• It is not required to re-jet for occasional use at altitude.
• Mixture screw settings will vary greatly from bike to bike. The effective range of the mixture screw is 1 to 3 turns. The greater the number turns, the richer the low speed mixture.
• The mixture screw and needle position overlap to a far greater extent than most people realize. (As does the pilot jet.) In general, the richer the needle is set, the leaner the mixture screw should be set.
• A small #4 washer can be used under the needle circlip for fine needle adjustments. A .020” thick washer will give you a “1/2 clip” richer change.


Opinions will vary but you might start with this, given that your exhaust is a bit freer flowing and the snorkel is out:


I'm going to try it out with a KLX needle that I already have. Seems to be the way to go after reading many and finding a common theme.
 

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That does seem to be the sweet setup based on everything I've read.

Plan to do it on mine, but when I finally got my '03 running right (carbon buildup on head had wiped out any power over 5000 RPM), I ended up with a bunch of high speed problems to fix.

E.g. steering head bearings and gas cap venting. I think I'll enjoy it running well for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Jetting - KLX Main Jet

OK I got a KLX main needle - clip and brass spacer, all KAW parts
Took out the stock KLR needle and when compaired to the stock KLX needle, The KLR needle has a tapered tip leading my to believe it's richer ????
Not sure if this is right.
Please advise!
Thanks so Much.
D-
 

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Based on the measurements I've harvested from the web, the KLX needle is richer (smaller diameter) in the mid range. At the very tip of the needle, IIRC, they are about the same size. Also, IIRC, the same size at the thick end.

The stock setup uses a very rich main jet and a lean needle to get the thing to work.

With the richer KLX needle, most folks end up with a smaller (leaner) main jet.

I live at 5000', so I can't suggest the right size for you, but somebody on the forum can, for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
jetting

I have a comparison photo on my computer but will not let me insert.....
 
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