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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I bought a keihin cvk34 carburetor off ebay for my 1997 klr250. The description said tested on a klr250 but I made the mistake of not inquiring about the year. The only difference that I see is a single throttle cable, no decelerate cable. Now I "think" it should work without two cables since the spring will pull the throttle grip closed when you release grip. BUT!! I figured I should ask you guys first before I do something stupid or possibly dangerous (OR BOTH!)

Here are pics of both carbs
old:
Vehicle brake Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Gas

new:
Bag Luggage and bags Font Wood Personal protective equipment
 

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Kawasaki ATVs with CVK34 carburetors had only butterfly OPENING cables (no CLOSING cables, like on KLR250s), to the best of my knowledge/belief/experience. I'd bet you got an ATV model carburetor.

Can you live with just the one cable on your KLR250? I'd think so, depending upon spring tension, rather than a separate cable to slow 'er down; never had any problem with stuck open carb on my 300 cc Kawasaki ATV. You must decide upon the severity of risk, however, for your motorcycle application.
 

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Seems like a single cable was the "good olde days" and shouldn't be a real problem. I've put additional throttle return springs on things that scared me! I'm also boneheaded enough to study whether a shaft/linkage swap is possible or maybe add a stupid fitting to the new carb's cam gizonerator...
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Kawasaki ATVs with CVK34 carburetors had only butterfly OPENING cables (no CLOSING cables, like on KLR250s), to the best of my knowledge/belief/experience. I'd bet you got an ATV model carburetor.

Can you live with just the one cable on your KLR250? I'd think so, depending upon spring tension, rather than a separate cable to slow 'er down; never had any problem with stuck open carb on my 300 cc Kawasaki ATV. You must decide upon the severity of risk, however, for your motorcycle application.
What I'm really concerned about is whether the jets are slightly different. I've decided to try this one out,with the intention of eventually fixing the old one. the reason I bought a new one is because it would stall on idle but eventually it fixed itself after driving the bike a bit. I assume the jets were clogged a bit. BUT last time I turned the fuel on, the carb was pouring gas with no sign of stopping! I'm gonna take some time to learn about carbs. it always leaked some gas but this time it was a fountain. maybe something is just gunked up. We shall see.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Seems like a single cable was the "good olde days" and shouldn't be a real problem. I've put additional throttle return springs on things that scared me! I'm also boneheaded enough to study whether a shaft/linkage swap is possible or maybe add a stupid fitting to the new carb's cam gizonerator...
Well that makes me feel more confident in trying this. But I'll eventually put the old one back on, once its fixed. And what is a gizonerator?😂
 

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What I'm really concerned about is whether the jets are slightly different. I've decided to try this one out,with the intention of eventually fixing the old one. the reason I bought a new one is because it would stall on idle but eventually it fixed itself after driving the bike a bit. I assume the jets were clogged a bit. BUT last time I turned the fuel on, the carb was pouring gas with no sign of stopping! I'm gonna take some time to learn about carbs. it always leaked some gas but this time it was a fountain. maybe something is just gunked up. We shall see.
Most probably (IMHO) defective float valve and/or float valve seat. Check out, "Care and Feeding of the CVK40." Quite similar design and construction/operation of the CVK34. "Carb Overhaul" posting on this website quite relevant.

If you're concerned about jet sizes, swap 'em from the old carb to the replacement one.
 

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Several carb help threads with videos over here,

READ the link with-in the Link! Then watch the videos.
 

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And if it is hard to start after do not try push starting. I did that on a suzuki 125 once when i was 15 after putting carb back togeyher and that bike went really fast into the garage door.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Several carb help threads with videos over here,

READ the link with-in the Link! Then watch the videos.
Most probably (IMHO) defective float valve and/or float valve seat. Check out, "Care and Feeding of the CVK40." Quite similar design and construction/operation of the CVK34. "Carb Overhaul" posting on this website quite relevant.

If you're concerned about jet sizes, swap 'em from the old carb to the replacement one.
Thankyou both, I'm about to post a new thread. I will be reading this tonight. I think I messed something up. bike started but was smoking from the front.
 
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