Tim here from suburban Chicago. I grew up on minibikes and enduros but got away from riding when I started "adulting". Then in 2007 I got a Victory Kingpin and have been riding that since. I wanted to get back in the dirt, so I just bought a 2017 Camo KLR 650. Hope to get in a few good rides before it gets arctic here.
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Welcome to the forum Tim S. Check your engine oil before the 1st start every day, until you get used to your bikes habits.
And You need to read this before you ride much, DPelletier's common new KLR owner mistakes to avoid
If you haven't already.
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Tim S., what suburb of Chicago? I'm in St Charles.
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Bryan here. I am originally from Las Vegas, but I recently moved and now call Hattiesburg, Mississippi home. I have been riding for about 14 years, but I am new to adventure riding. I just sold my first love, a '79 KZ650, and bought my first KLR. It is an '09 and it's in great shape. I have already swapped out the dogbones to raise the suspension and swapped from a lowered seat to a stock seat as I am 6' 4" and the prior owner was much smaller. This forum has already been a huge help and I am glad to join y'all. I look forward to spending a lot of time on the road with my new toy.
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Welcome to the forum, 650invegas.
If that Lime Green drive chain needs repetitive 'adjustment', I'll suggest a higher Quality drive chain to be necessary.
The lower run of the chain needs to be loose enough to be gently lifted to just touch the rear tip of the rubber under-slider.
If too tight, one will inadvertently continue to re-adjust & re-adjust, because the chain is being pulled to less than 'zero' slack by suspension movement.
But many of those 'Colored Chains' are simply CHEAP CHAINS.
If that Lime Green drive chain needs repetitive 'adjustment', I'll suggest a higher Quality drive chain to be necessary.
The lower run of the chain needs to be loose enough to be gently lifted to just touch the rear tip of the rubber under-slider.
If too tight, one will inadvertently continue to re-adjust & re-adjust, because the chain is being pulled to less than 'zero' slack by suspension movement.
But many of those 'Colored Chains' are simply CHEAP CHAINS.
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Good to know. The prior owner was very proud of that chain, but I was wondering about it.
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It slows down just fine considering it doesnt go all that fast, 14t/45t gearing.
Were in St. Charles, now in Elburn
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Hi , I am a forum newbie. I am from Oregon,Wi and have been riding motorcycles of one sort or another for 44 years. I have bikes ranging from dual sports and trials bikes to Harleys and crotch rockets. I am hoping to do a 685 kit on my oldest Klr next spring. ( already picked up a newer cylinder.) I am looking forward to some good info and interaction on this site.
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thanks Pete . I have a question in the gen 1 section about engine case compatibility maybe you can help?
That is not just a simple re-bore job Petek.
The 719 kits Require a New Thicker Steel Sleeve be properly installed into a 96-18 cylinder block after clearancing the water jacket, then skimming the top deck and Then Boring the new extra thick steel sleeve out 5 mm larger than a standard bore. Not an in-expensive repair in most owners budgets.
The 719 kits Require a New Thicker Steel Sleeve be properly installed into a 96-18 cylinder block after clearancing the water jacket, then skimming the top deck and Then Boring the new extra thick steel sleeve out 5 mm larger than a standard bore. Not an in-expensive repair in most owners budgets.
Paul, yes, I’m aware of that, and I priced that option when I considered what to do to upgrade my bike several months ago. I know a lot of KLRistas are a lot more frugal than I am.
But let’s put the numbers down. A new cylinder liner and machining adds about $200 to the job, per Eagle Mike. In round numbers, a simple overbore and new piston with head reconditioning is about $700 all in. So, a 705 or 719 is about $900 all in. If you really don’t need the head work, subtract $200.
The extra $200 for the sleeve and machining didn’t dissuade me from going further than 692–I just don’t like making multiple or big changes all at once. I also don’t expect to trash the 692 I just installed!
But let’s put the numbers down. A new cylinder liner and machining adds about $200 to the job, per Eagle Mike. In round numbers, a simple overbore and new piston with head reconditioning is about $700 all in. So, a 705 or 719 is about $900 all in. If you really don’t need the head work, subtract $200.
The extra $200 for the sleeve and machining didn’t dissuade me from going further than 692–I just don’t like making multiple or big changes all at once. I also don’t expect to trash the 692 I just installed!
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Hello all,
I live in north west Houston area (katy,Texas) And ride a 2004 klr650. The bike is new to me. I spotted it in one of my neighbors garage, buried under ladder,rugs and furniture. From the driveway you could see the tail end of the bike. Asking neighbor about the bike and would want to part with it. After pulling it from the garage and looking it over agreed to a price and pushed the bike home.
after sitting up for many years I did most of the minor maintenance new battery oil drained gas fired right up.. odometer shows 2400 miles, paint faded from red to a lighter color. The tires were old and cracked. I knew a bike mechanic in the spring branch area and trucked the bike over for new tires and a good going over.
Riding the bike for two years now. The bike needs more work. The mechanic shutdown his shop and I am in the hunt for a klr mechanic in the Houston area. I have read about tech days but not finding any in my area. I can do a lot with a wrench but I know there is a lot I do not know. Any and all info is good.
Thank you for letting intro me and my bike. The bike and I are finding new roads west of Houston that are less traveled within the city.
rider1
I live in north west Houston area (katy,Texas) And ride a 2004 klr650. The bike is new to me. I spotted it in one of my neighbors garage, buried under ladder,rugs and furniture. From the driveway you could see the tail end of the bike. Asking neighbor about the bike and would want to part with it. After pulling it from the garage and looking it over agreed to a price and pushed the bike home.
after sitting up for many years I did most of the minor maintenance new battery oil drained gas fired right up.. odometer shows 2400 miles, paint faded from red to a lighter color. The tires were old and cracked. I knew a bike mechanic in the spring branch area and trucked the bike over for new tires and a good going over.
Riding the bike for two years now. The bike needs more work. The mechanic shutdown his shop and I am in the hunt for a klr mechanic in the Houston area. I have read about tech days but not finding any in my area. I can do a lot with a wrench but I know there is a lot I do not know. Any and all info is good.
Thank you for letting intro me and my bike. The bike and I are finding new roads west of Houston that are less traveled within the city.
rider1
Rider1, welcome to the crewe. Drop everything and click over to the forum for 1987-2007 wrenching and mods and read the “sticky” threads there, particularly Paul Westman’s “New KLR owner mistakes to avoid.” Here’s the link:
www.klrforum.com
Then get a Clymer manual if you don’t already have one.
Common new KLR owner mistakes to avoid
Here is my list of "common new KLR owner mistakes to avoid" 1) Oil drain plug overtightening: it is relatively common for people to overtighten the oil drain plug.....usually to stop a leak after the gasket/washer has inadvertently fallen into the used oil or left stuck to the bottom of the...
www.klrforum.com
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