I grew up in Poplarville, if you know where that is. It’s a good place to be FROM, FAR FROM🤣.Thanks... I just finished that one a few minutes ago. So far, I'm good. First big things for me are front fork service and front brakes.
I grew up in Poplarville, if you know where that is. It’s a good place to be FROM, FAR FROM🤣.Thanks... I just finished that one a few minutes ago. So far, I'm good. First big things for me are front fork service and front brakes.
Of course I do. My wife's ex step mother (LOL) lives there. I ride through there occasionally when traveling to various towns in LA for work.I grew up in Poplarville, if you know where that is. It’s a good place to be FROM, FAR FROM🤣.
Nice to meet you Pete and thanks for the advice!Mawalley32: ST1300-- Nice, very fast sport tourer. Don't expect a KLR to give it a run! Post pics too.
Twar90: you're not the biggest one here riding a KLR. Tire pressures: 21 is too low for a narrow front tire. What will work best also depends on whether you're riding on or off road, and the tires you run. Try 34Front/32Rear.
NO DOUBT!!! No, I don't expect the two of them to be able to compete with one another, which is why I decided to get both. The ST is my mile muncher that I use to travel for work - in fact, I put another 400 miles on it yesterday afternoon riding from the Gulf Coast up to Huntsville, AL. The KLR will be my fun bike, getting thrashed around on back roads, dirt, and trails on the weekends.Mawalley32: ST1300-- Nice, very fast sport tourer. Don't expect a KLR to give it a run! Post pics too.
Break in that engine as you intend to ride it.Can’t wait to get through this break-in period and see what this pig can do!
I'll partially dis-agree with those statements.Break in that engine as you intend to ride it.
No need to baby it during break in!
85% of piston ring seating occurs within the first 15mins of run time. The remaining 15% takes a good bit longer.I'll partially dis-agree with those statements.
Half to two thirds of maximum capable rpm / speed should be observed for at least the first couple hundred miles.
So about 60-65 mph in top gear.
But it is good to use full throttle & short shift thru the gears to get up to speed. Putting a 'load' on it but not forcing maximum rpm is what seats the rings & polishes in the cylinder & piston. Over-revving can scuff the brand new piston.
Revving a brand new engine to the maximum is never good.
One might ask those same engine builders, "what is the piston skirt to cylinder clearance" on those built to be rebuilt on a regular basis high performance engines?I’ve also spoke with engine builders who follow similar break-in procedures on “engine only” dyno’s. After a half-dozen 2/3 throttle runs, they’ll change the oil & let it rip after that. This is all done with less than 1 hour on a brand new or rebuilt motor.
If it’ll work on a $20,000+ race engine, it’ll do just fine on a KLR 😂
Welcome. Be sure to check out this article below. Look forward to seeing photos.New guy here. name is Jon, currently live in NC. Just picked up a 2023 S model with ABS, pics coming.
Bitedog, welcome. Before you do any more wenching, read this. Most of it applies the new bikes too:
DPelletier's common new KLR owner mistakes to avoid
And post a pic of your bike.