Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

41 - 48 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
What does CCC stand for? Does BSL mean baseline? Eventually I think I will start a new thread about my personal oil consumption. I added a mini reservoir into the clean-side air box drain hose so that I have a visual representation of how much oil is lost due from crankcase evaporation.

I'll go into all this much more once I get the bike back together and running. Can't say I'll have the chance to go 75mph for 2 hours anytime soon though.
Edit: just realized CCC is cold crank compression
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,459 Posts
This has me wondering if my bike is a perfect example of the 'bad Thailand assembly' that I've seen mentioned. Was 2006 first year for Thailand assembly? How else could both the Intake cam plug fall out and the KACR be incompletely inserted/pressed in? I'm baffled by this.
Assembly was shifted to Thailand for the 2002 model year. I'm not sure what caused your particular issue but I think it's safe to say that given the hindsight of the last 19 years that there were no big quality control issues inherent with the Thailand assembled bikes. In the old days, I was pretty happy with my 2001 as the last of the Japanese assembled bikes, but now I don't think it much matters and I'd be happy with any 1996 - 2007 model.

2 cents,
Dave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,752 Posts
Edit: just realized CCC is cold crank compression
Yeap. Cold Cranking Compression at Wide Open Throttle.

Valve tappet clearances & doo hickey adjustments should be checked and / or adjusted after rotating the crankshaft CCW to TDC. (Counter-Clockwise to Top Dead Center)

BSL = BlackStone Laboratories oil analysis company. To see how your engine & its oil are both doing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Why would someone test CCC at WOT? Throttle position affects compression at startup?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,752 Posts
Throttle position affects compression at startup?
Exactly. ALL Engines are tested for maximum compression at FULL Throttle.
Best to have a fully charged, GOOD battery to avoid a false low reading from too slow of cranking also.

And I don't care which book one might read, it is best to test engine compression at room temperature or even Lower.

If you can't get it Started you can't test fully warmed compression, can you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Alright so today I buttoned the engine back together, and quickly learned why the VC was leaking so bad when I bought the bike... One of the head bosses was stripped... So I ordered a helicoil kit and fixed that, which went smoothly once I removed the electronics bracket and all associated connectors that were in my way.

Bike started right up! Without a doubt, the engine sounds waaaay better than before. Maybe that has something to do with my KACR not contacting the cylinder head OR a loose metal plug rattling around! Valve adjustment couldn't hurt either.

In days ahead I'll be changing the oil, and buying some new fuel hose. I have a thin wall plug socket backordered so that'll have to wait. I need warmer weather to paint the pig though, the gas tank is a mess of the original color and some weird coating a PO put on it (not plastidip).

I'm also pretty proud of a very KLR appropriate mod I did. Idk about everyone else, but somehow I always get junk in the spark plug well. After spending a lot of time cleaning that out I decided I should cover it. Dollar store to the rescue!! I bought a silicone pot holder (safe to 400+ degrees), and trimmed it to fit on top of the head. I just snipped two holes for the temperature sensor and the plug wire. It won't catch everything but it definitely will help!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,752 Posts
I find the original oem tool kit spark plug socket to be one of the best fitting on the KLR's. At least after stepping over to the bench grinder and putting a 45 degree bevel around the outside of the lower tips of the hex socket. So the corners can't dig into sides of the plug pocket.

I tried to bevel all of the oem spark plug sosckets in the KLR's that we sold from 1987-2016.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
Well my fixes seem to be holding up. I drove 150 miles today on paved mountain roads. Some cruising, some spirited driving, some slower windy roads. Definitely not extended time at 5500rpm or even 5000rpm, but often going through the usable powerband briefly between turns (3k-5.5k rpm).

It was extremely liberating after all the work I've put into the bike. While riding my temperature gauge only goes up about 1/3rd and I never heard the fan kick on once. The fan is working, if I let the bike idle long enough it warms up to halfway until I'm moving again. I ordered a replacement 195F t-stat for my T-Bob version 1, hopefully that's the fix.

I haven't removed the factory t-stat housing since owning the bike, but my understanding is that they open early (cold) anyway. I might test my old t-stat once I drain the coolant. I'm hoping if it indeed runs warmer after a new t-stat that the oil viscosity difference, however small it might be, helps the engine smooth out a bit. The engine isn't very happy between 2-3k rpm, but seems great everywhere else.

Perhaps a carb cleaning will help with this too. At lower rpms I get intermittent exhaust pops during deceleration, I'm thinking something's either a tad dirty or in need of slight adjustment for more fuel in partial throttle (low throttle) positions. Not going to lie, I plan on riding more before getting into the next project with the bike...as long as nothing breaks haha
 
41 - 48 of 48 Posts
Top