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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
After looking closer it's concave because of the shape of the water pump shaft right before the threads on the end (the bevel). I reused mine after examining it's fitment to be ok.

I got the bike back together today with new t-stat and seals. No leaks seen while I let the bike get hot and I rolled around my property slowly. Only time will tell. I am certain I did not roll the seal lip on install.

For the first time I decreased the preload on the rear shock, and it made enough of a difference to make the chain contact the swingarm while moving. I actually have new sprockets (16/42) and chain on the way, so I'll adjust when new parts are on.

However I have another question, if I can grab my rear sprocket by hand and slightly rotate and feel play does that mean the rubber damper is shot? I would think yes, but want to make sure you all can't do the same thing on your KLRs. It would be convenient to order now if I need it, that way I can do the chain, sprockets, and this all at once.
 

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Some play in the sprocket cushion is normal. You will have to just take your best guess as to whether or not your sprocket cushion has 'more than normal'!

I think that there is a Canadian company, 'Pro Cycle' that sells a urethane sprocket cushion.
 
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I’m not that familiar with the KLR damper play, but I expect it’s a bit the same as other bikes. As long as the sprocket does not have “free play” when rotating it against the rubber dampers, it’s okay. Even if it does have a little free play, you can run it like that for years, maybe decades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
I ended up shimming my damper bushing, the used one I bought on fleabay was in worse shape than mine. I used flexible plastic shims, and I have to say it made a huge difference in a good way. Much smoother and easier to control throttle at all speeds. Not jerky like before.

First long ride ever today, after doing a few short rides yesterday. The dang oil drain plug is still slowly seeping, just enough to be annoying. No more Oil from seep hole. Oil level still full after today's long high speed ride.

Short rides yesterday I got 50 mpg at speeds mostly below 55mph. Today I did around 150-160 miles mostly at freeway speeds and got 51mpg. Highest cruising speed about 70 real mph, with bursts for passing etc as high as 80 but not sustained.

This is a significant increase in mpg after getting the bike back together for some reason. Todays long ride was also the first time with my xl plastic top trunk. For similar riding before the best was 46. The bike feels great as well, to be honest.

Here's what been done recently:
1) New chain and sprockets, was 15/43 now it's 16/42. I love the increase in gear spread for speeds 35-65 mph.
2) Crank orifice pdwestman #43 in oil filter cover (banjos were already done)
3) New oil seal/coolant seal
4 New 195 thermostat (bike has been running slightly cooler actually, despite warmer weather, but this could be because I've had the bash guard off for checking leaks.
4) I installed a Shinko 705 rear tire and new tube, and made sure sprockets were aligned properly.
5) New sealed rear wheel bearings
6) Adjusted/greased throttle cables and greased tube
7) Oil change, reused the filter since it's been getting crazy regular oil changes.

So I now this may sound sacrilegious for a KLR, but I'm now considering trying a 17T front sprocket. My bike felt good at speeds up to 80 where I didn't go faster but could have. It would be nice to cruise a bit faster though. In CA people drive fast so keeping up feels safer. Granted I know in the future if I ever load it up for a trip a 17t may not 'pull' enough to be useful.

I swear if the KLR had 10 more hp it would be the perfect bike. But 51mpg with a 685cc isn't bad. At some point I want to try next jet size and see what it does. I've opened the air box a bit more and soon want to try the klr chris duct tape method as well.
 

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Good to hear it’s running well. Remind me what mods you’ve done to your carb, if any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
When I bought the bike the notes said it has a klx needle and 142 main jet. I haven't done any adjustments yet.
 

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Yes a 17T can be used.

I encourage people to take the Neutral light wire out of the wire loom and leave it in its original channel, but route the other 5 wires Straight Up from the alternator grommets. Then carve the top left corner of the square area of sprocket cover to allow the 5 wires to run exterior of the sprocket cover and another notch carved into the sprocket cover just ahead of the transmission oil pipe banjo bolt to allow the 5 wires back thru the sprocket cover.

This gets the 5 most important wires completely out of harms way.
 
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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
I can never leave well enough alone, surely I'm not the only one here with this affliction :)

One day I'm going to do a proper carb cleaning, and I figured if I don't like the one size up jet it isn't too hard to put the old one back in.

For now I'll just focus on getting the drain plug to quit seeping, and ride. It does look like my shifter seal might be seeping also, hard to tell if it's that or if the transmission banjo bolt washers aren't sealing well and it slowly falls down to the shifter hole area. I bet I would have to have that side engine cover removed to replace the seal, and at that point I would adjust the doo as well.
 

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Remove the sprocket cover, degrease everything very well and DRY. Spray suspect areas 3 times with a foot powder that dries white or gray & allow to dry. Test start / ride a short bit & look for staining of powder. Very quickly evident as to where leakage maybe coming from.

There is no side cover to remove for gear change shaft seal replacement. Just use a hooked tool (like a cotter pin puller), to slip into seal lip & pull.
 

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I've opened the air box a bit more and soon want to try the klr chris duct tape method as well.
Don't bother messing with the airbox door - it's just a bad idea. If you've pulled the snorkle and done the large L mod, you've got all the air your 685 needs without concerns about turbulence or water ingress. Leave the backfire screen alone too.

2 cents,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
I wasn't going to cut into the airbox door, I wanted to try duct taping the lower 2/3 of it and see if that with a one size bigger jet does anything. Other than the low cost of a jet, it's free to try and won't hurt anything.
 

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I wasn't going to cut into the airbox door, I wanted to try duct taping the lower 2/3 of it and see if that with a one size bigger jet does anything. Other than the low cost of a jet, it's free to try and won't hurt anything.
True but since I wouldn't run it that way anyhow, it seems kinda pointless to me.

Cheers,
Dave
 

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If he removes the air filter cover and tapes up part of it, that simulates cutting holes in the top of the airbox. Then he can experiment with jetting to see if it makes any difference. If it does, then he can put the cover back on and cut the equivalent holes in the top. If it doesn’t, then he can avoid molesting his airbox.

That’s the idea anyway. Personally, I just did what Eagle Mike recommends because he’s tested that stuff out already.
 

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If he removes the air filter cover and tapes up part of it, that simulates cutting holes in the top of the airbox. Then he can experiment with jetting to see if it makes any difference. If it does, then he can put the cover back on and cut the equivalent holes in the top. If it doesn’t, then he can avoid molesting his airbox.

That’s the idea anyway. Personally, I just did what Eagle Mike recommends because he’s tested that stuff out already.
I get it but the airflow isn't the same; as you say Cary, Mike, Chuck and others have done the testing years ago. .....the jetting Mike recommends works best with the L mod and since I can't figure out any downside with doing the L mod (or equivalent), I would just go ahead and do it. Some people need to see, check and measure stuff themselves - I'm not one of them; if those guys say it's the best, and they've tested it all with AF meters, etc. I just do it.....so far, so good.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
I'd be happy to be directed to the test results that are out there. Only ones I know of are KLRChris. L mod is done.

Was the testing you speak of on a 650, 685 or? If 650cc I know 35cc isn't a huge difference, but that could benefit from a slightly different jet size. I know I've read practically everywhere that no two engines run the same, even when 'identical' in build. Different pistons among the same cc engine could perhaps change things...

I'm not claiming anything, except that at some point I will probably experiment a bit. I really don't see what wrong with this to be honest.
 

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Nothing ventured, Nothing gained.

But it will be hard to tell without an A/F meter and a known test bike along side of you.
 
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I'd be happy to be directed to the test results that are out there. Only ones I know of are KLRChris. L mod is done.

Was the testing you speak of on a 650, 685 or? If 650cc I know 35cc isn't a huge difference, but that could benefit from a slightly different jet size. I know I've read practically everywhere that no two engines run the same, even when 'identical' in build. Different pistons among the same cc engine could perhaps change things...

I'm not claiming anything, except that at some point I will probably experiment a bit. I really don't see what wrong with this to be honest.
No nothing wrong with playing with it though as Paul said, without an AF meter and a welded bung you may do more harm than good. The 685 doesn't require any jetting changes vs. the 650 - the 5% difference in displacement is just not enough to matter.....at least according to Eaglemike who uses the same 142 main in his 705 (verified with an O2 meter)

Dave
 

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Yeah it is installed backwards. You will also need to order a new coolant pump seal & probably both gaskets.
What exactly do you mean by coolant pump seal, Paul?
The small 6mm internal O-ring, or the 'mechanical seal' within the rear of the impeller?

Thanks everyone for the extremely informative thread (y)

Dave
 
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