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New to group . . .

3K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  Jon 
#1 ·
Hello all!

New to the group, to Kawasaki, and to KLR 650's. Not new to motorcycling, Honda, BSA, Royal Enfield, and Harley Davidson. Been riding for about 25 years and have owned and maintained many different machines.

Just picked up a 2005 KLR650 with about 4,400 miles on it. I've wanted a dual-sport cycle for quite some time and decided this was finally the time. Looks like it's been down once on the left side but not at high speed. Basically some road rash on some plastic - nothing major. So far I've only put a few hundred miles on the thing but darn it this cycle is a blast!

Previous owner (2nd owner) said that there was an, "Eagle Mike sticker that said got 'er done" on the timing side and because of this he believed the infamous doohickey to have been replaced. He partially removed the sticker and there is an adhesive spot where he said the sticker was.

Question is this: any way to verify whether or not the doohickey was handled without opening things up enough to actually do the job? I'm not incapable of wrenching when necessary nor am I afraid to get my hand's dirty. Just don't want to dig deeper than necessary.

I look forward to learning more about this particular motorcycle and any suggestions the group might have to offer.

-Jon
 
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#2 ·
Welcome. Sorry, you're gonna have to open it up to see if the doo was replaced.
 
#4 ·
No problem, glad you're enjoying the bike.
 
#5 ·
Welcome to the site....you'll find it a very relaxed place to hang your hat. None of the chest beating that many other sites suffer from.
As far as the DOO is concerned, if it were mine, I'd be opening it up even if the guy told me specifically he had done the work himself. We aren't the most truthfull of breads sometimes, humans that is.
While in there IF it doesn't have the torsion spring I would also add that to the upgraded DOO. It never looses tension like the regular springs. Worth the aggravation imho.
Other than that, I would dig into the oil screen on the righthand side also....it is well known to get partially gummed up with old silicon from the factory assembly process. Seems the mothership was generous with the silicon but not so much with the grease for head and swingarm bearings. You will learn all of the usual small issues of this great bike....don't let them deter you from enjoying the great bike it is. You have already seem the smile it can put on your face.....I have been riding my 04 now for 6 years and have worked on it almost as much as I ride it and it still makes me smile! I'm a seriously infected modder, the bike doesn't "NEED" anything...I do!

Sorry for the long winded rely, welcome once again to the site...enjoy.:13:
 
#6 ·
Welcome to the forum, Jon. Glad to hear you're enjoying your KLR. I would suggest that you check your valves within the next 1,000 miles or so. I checked mine at around 5K and found they all needed adjusting, with the engine starting and running noticeably better after I did it. If I can do it, anybody can.

Whatever problem you run into or maintenance project you want to tackle, there are people here who have done it before and are more than willing to answer questions and offer advice based on their experience. It's a good forum with lots of good people.
 
#7 ·
Ha, ha - - not at all long winded. You are indeed correct. There are many who will stretch, bend, or otherwise exaggerate the truth regarding maintenance and operating practices in order to get the sale. The PO seemed like a fairly reliable and honest sort and was in no great hurry to sell the KLR. In fact he even told me that if I changed my mind after the 98 mile ride home to just give him a call and he'd take the bike back :eek: Highly unusual in my experience. Still, though, as recommended by Lockjaw, Willys, and let's not forget Howlin' Wolf I will therefore "Do the Do". I'll check/replace the torsion spring while in there as well.

Thanks, Willys, for the tip regarding the oil screen. I'll definitely have a look.

Planalp - I'll put valves on the list of things to do within the next 1,000 miles as well. I have been accustomed to rods and tappets when it comes to valve adjustment so I have been spoiled. I watched a You Tube clip on KLR valve adj and it seemed a bit more involved than remove tappet cover and lengthen/shorten push rods for just enough twirl at TDC. Still, though, it didn't look too bad.

So far I am impressed with the KLR. It appears to be one of those "get out of it what you put into it" types of cycles. That's good because I sometimes enjoy wrenching just as much as I do riding. I have the Clymer Manual on the way and next I'll be off to Eaglemike.com to start pricing a lever kit and new torsion spring.

Still on the list are heated grips (I've always wanted them), power up front for a GPS and a GPS mount. I also have lowering links on the way. I'm a bit over 6' but only weigh in at 170 lbs. Even after a shock adjustment to 1 I am not as sure-footed as I prefer to be. I don't want a low-rider or anything like that but would prefer to be flat-footed when astride and "walking" the cycle up the driveway rather than on tip-toes. I figure a 1.5" drop in the back and a matching adj up front will do the trick. I'll let you know how all of that goes . . .

Until then thanks again for the kind welcome and the helpful suggestions!

-Jon
 
#8 ·
If you don't need to ride the bike all the time, I'd wait to order anything from EM, just in case it has already been installed, no sense in buying another one imho. I doubt it will have the torsion spring but I could be wrong.....they have been out for a while now. You should buy new gaskets though as once you open it up there is a good chance they will rip because Murphy says so if you don't have a fresh set sitting next to you. Same goes for the righthand side, plus buy a fresh water pump seal, "O" ring, again....you know....augh!
When you take the valve cover off to check the shim clearances it must be done stone cold. If the clearances aren't at the top of the specs then take each shim out and see what number it is, use the chart in the manual and then figure out which shim to buy to get it to the widest gap. I would do this and the DOO and the oil screen at the same time. The bike will be down for a while waiting on shims any way. If you have a BMW dealer near you they sell the shims much cheaper than a Kawi dealership. OR, order them from EM when you order the other stuff....the best way.....:13:
 
#9 ·
Thanks, Willys. Good point on waiting to order although it looks like I'll at least need to order the rotor holder wrench just to find out if I need to order the other stuff.

I hear you on the gaskets. It's a rare occurrence that a well seated gasket can be removed and reused with certainty and without feeling a touch compromised!

So in order of importance, as I see it anyway, is to: 1) Wait for Clymer Manual to show; 2) Get to know my way around; 3) Lowering links and front forks; 4) Order rotor holder wrench and verify upgraded lever and torsion spring and order and replace if necessary; 5) oil screen on RHS; 6) inspect/adjust valves.

Just to be honest, though, while working through the list, whenever practical, I fully intend to ride like hell at every given opportunity. It's a modern machine with 4,000 or so miles. If it's already at the point of needing to be pampered then I bought the wrong bike!

Thanks for all of the help so far!

-Jon
 
#10 ·
You got it, brother. We get pretty obsessive about these bikes, but a LOT of folks just buy em, change the oil and add gas when necessary. ;)
 
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