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Discussion Starter #1
New to KLR - just bought a 2012 KLR over the weekend. I was brought up on motorcycles all the way through college and early marriage but went away from them when raising our kids. 35 plus years later I am back with a vengeance. Resurrected two Vintage Honda twins ( one sold last week ) and a Suzuki V-strom 1000 and wanted a lighter more capable off road bike for more off-road adventures.
The KLR needs some service and TLC but should be a fun ride. Comes with a Corbin seat ( needs a seam fixed but fixable ) and upgraded windshield with a little more than 9,000 miles.
Will be doing a complete service immediately and could use some input on what is needed beyond that - been reading about the Doohicky issue and previous owner thinks it was done by owner before him but not 100 percent sure. 2012 bikes already fixed or must be fixed as well? Not sure about valve adjustment either so assume that needs to be done at 15,000 miles? A local tech day would be great - I tend to do all my own work.
Anyway thanks for all the help in advance.
Schu
 

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So when are you going to get that lighter bike? The KLR should do until then LOL. I had a black 2012 its a great bike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well it is lighter and more off road then the V-strom 1000 with the Happy trails boxes and all up gear it's still a beast and like it a lot for more on road and gravel roads. The KLR really does feel lighter and with some soft bags and lighter gear should be more capable hopefully. At least that was what I was shooting for...
 

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It will be I was just being funny. I will say I have a 2012 Vstrom 650 and I think I can go almost anyplace I went with my KLR
 

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Congrats on the new bike . Get a stock seat and save a BUNCH of weight over the Corbin. The cover is glued and riveted on . Drilling out the rivets can break that heavy pan . Lots of places won't work on them . Send it back to Corbin with a bunch of money and wait 6 to 12 months or get a needle and thread and sew it upas best you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Funny thing
Dry weight in stock form the difference between the KLR , the strom 650 and the strom 1000 is not that different but it sure feels a lot lighter.
I already carefully drilled out the rivets and the cover came of easily. I will drop the cover at a local upholstery shop and have them fix the seam. They should do it in a couple of days. Worse case my wife says she can do if I am not to picky.
In addition I saw a local OEM seat around here on CL or MP for 50.00 so my backup plan. I have a Corbin on my other bike and love it so hopefully fix the one I have.
Thanks for the welcome. Bought a bunch of service stuff today do that is next.
 

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Hopefully the local upholstery shop knows enough to set their sewing machine to the same 'Stitches per inch' as Corbin originally stitched it with!
 

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Here are a few inexpensive things I would do.

Low buck exhaust mod
KLX needle or 22cent mod
Air box L mod/remove snorkle/rejet carb
Uni air filter
Remove swingarm bolt/clean off corrosion/grease/plug holes in frame
Doohicky/torsion spring
Remove kickstand switch
Remove clutch switch
Manual petcock
Remove AIS
De Califoniacate if needed


Tons of other stuff to do if you are interested but these are cheap and get good gains.


Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Quite a list. I will check into those.
I assume a few are required - Doohickey etc - and a bunch optional as time goes by.
Why remove the snorkel? Don't you want for water crossings?
Also - anyway to tell if Doohickey already done from looking at the exterior?
Previous owner thought owner before him did it but not sure.
 

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Low buck exhaust mod
KLX needle or 22cent mod
Air box L mod/remove snorkel/rejet carb
Uni air filter

are performance mods. The snorkel and the L mod give better airflow. I don't really see how they would let more water in since the snorkel hole is on top of the airbox and goes down inside restricting airflow. All this stuff is optional but it gives it some more balls.


Remove swingarm bolt/clean off corrosion/grease/plug holes in frame
Doohicky/torsion spring

should be done. Factory defects.


Remove kickstand switch
Remove clutch switch
Manual petcock

will prevent you from possibly being stranded if you are comfortable removing some safety features.


Remove AIS
De Califoniacate if needed

removes bulky environmental junk. AIS causes backfire on deceleration. If you want to save the planet from emissions stay far away from the KLR.
 

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You might be able to tell if the doohickey is done by just taking off the left side engine cover. You can only see a little part of it sticking out from under the rotor.

Also, this

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys
Lot's to learn - getting on it.
Quick question - noticed the plastic insert on the rear rack is cracked. Better inexpensive system out there? Assume as I already saw a few on ebay ( plastic inserts ) that people replace them or must be a few laying about in parts bins.
 

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Here are a few inexpensive things I would do.

Low buck exhaust mod
KLX needle or 22cent mod
Air box L mod/remove snorkle/rejet carb
Uni air filter

Remove swingarm bolt/clean off corrosion/grease/plug holes in frame

Doohicky/torsion spring
Remove kickstand switch
Remove clutch switch
Manual petcock
Remove AIS
De Califoniacate if needed


Tons of other stuff to do if you are interested but these are cheap and get good gains.


Have fun!
There is actually three parts to this. Rear suspension re-greasing.

The LARGE lower rocker bolt is the one that passes thru the lower frame pipes that NEED the stupid holes on the backside PLUGGED!

But all the swingarm, rockerarm & sidelink needle bearings, bearing sleeves, seals and mounting bolts need inspected & re-greased with marine wheel bearing grease / water-proof grease. Many of use use Bel-Ray brand.
 
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