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Discussion Starter #1
hello i am new to the forum, been riding big cruisers for years, but always yearned to head cross country, so i just picked up a 2005 KLR 650,
i took the seat off the other day and noticed two fuel ports coming out of the tank, the one one the right was plugged with a screw, could someone explain to me why, did a previous owner plug reserve? other then this the bike is in great shape.

thanks for any reply
 

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Bear222,
Your bike is/was a California model.
Does it still have the 'rectangular' charcoal canister opposite of the muffler?

If not, the previous owner 'plugged' the return line.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
that would explain it,there is no canister, so is this a normal mod, or something i need to worry about,
 

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By the way, those are not fuel ports. The remaining one is a tank vent. Open the fuel tank cap. The center has a vent system with some umbrella slosh valves which allow air into and out of the tank, but restrict liquid slosh-out. The cap vent is connected to a little nipple on the right side facing down when the cap is closed. The nipple fits into a dimple in the top of the tank. Inside the tank a tube is connected to the dimple and runs out the back of the tank under the seat. A rubber hose runs from there down behind the engine to vent the tank.

That is all my 49 state KLR has. The California KLRs have a second tube which goes to charcoal canister and vapor control system. Some folks remover that system if the bike is not registered in California.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the feedback, the beauty of buying a used bike, i should probably search ebay for an owners manual.
 

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...Some folks remover that system if the bike is not registered in California.
There's no vehicle inspection in California, so some people remove that stuff even if the bike is registered in California.

California has so many laws, and most of them are stupid, that it is said that the average Californian is a felon three times over by the time lunch rolls around.

"Committing misdemeanors is simply a way of life here", Tom scoffed.

Tom
 

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thanks for the feedback, the beauty of buying a used bike, i should probably search ebay for an owners manual.
I believe Owners' Manuals are available free on-line from Kawasaki.

The Clymer's Service Manual ain't bad; disagree with a couple of things in it (e.g., fuel screw setup; I prefer 1.75 turns out vs. what they say), but . . . overall, rather useful, IMHO.

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The cognoscenti may correct me, but . . . does even the California model 2005 KLR650 have SEPARATE fuel lines for MAIN and RESERVE? My modest supposition, rather than a reserve fuel line connection on the petcock plugged with a screw, the PO may have converted to a MANUAL ACTIVATION ONLY petcock, removed the vacuum line, and plugged the now-obsolete orifice. (Vacuum connection on carburetor should be plugged or capped, also.)

A reckless supposition; I accept the consequences of uttering it! :)
 

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There's no vehicle inspection in California, so some people remove that stuff even if the bike is registered in California.

California has so many laws, and most of them are stupid, that it is said that the average Californian is a felon three times over by the time lunch rolls around.

"Committing misdemeanors is simply a way of life here", Tom scoffed.

Tom
I did not want to leave myself open to being charged with contributing to the delinquency of a Californian since I occasionally pass through the Northeast corner your felonious state while ridding the TAT.
 

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The OP is talking about the two hard lines coming out of the back of the tank, one of which is plugged with a screw. The DPO had mad skillz.

These two lines, as Gomotor points out, are vent line and overflow line for the California evaporative emissions control.

Tom
 

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I did not want to leave myself open to being charged with contributing to the delinquency of a Californian since I occasionally pass through the Northeast corner your felonious state while ridding the TAT.
This is a heavily blue state and them idjits all enjoy being told what to do, when to do it, how to do it, and that they can't do it.

The rest of us are all delinquents who simply enjoy the weather and good riding.

Tom
 

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I believe Owners' Manuals are available free on-line from Kawasaki.

The Clymer's Service Manual ain't bad; disagree with a couple of things in it (e.g., fuel screw setup; I prefer 1.75 turns out vs. what they say), but . . . overall, rather useful, IMHO.

--------------------------

The cognoscenti may correct me, but . . . does even the California model 2005 KLR650 have SEPARATE fuel lines for MAIN and RESERVE? My modest supposition, rather than a reserve fuel line connection on the petcock plugged with a screw, the PO may have converted to a MANUAL ACTIVATION ONLY petcock, removed the vacuum line, and plugged the now-obsolete orifice. (Vacuum connection on carburetor should be plugged or capped, also.)

A reckless supposition; I accept the consequences of uttering it! :)
I too thought he might have been referring to the two nipples on the petcock, but they are no more visible with the seat removed than with it on. So, I assumed like you that he was referring to two lines at the back of the tank below the upturned portion of the seat.

So, let's ask Bear222 if the two "ports" he noticed were at the very rear of the tank covered by the seat front as we assumed or were they both on the petcock. Tell us Bear222.

If they were on the petcock, the one toward the rear supplies gas to the carburetor from both the "On" and "Reserve" positions. The one on the inboard side of the petcock is for a vacuum line from the discharge end of the carburetor. It supplies vacuum to a vacuum operated valve in the petcock to allow fuel to flow only when the engine is turning over and shuts off the flow when the engine is killed. With this it is not necessary to shut the petcock off each time you stop.

Some folks disable the vacuum valve in the petcock if they have trouble with it and remove the line and plug the connections at both ends of the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
it is as you thought rear of tank, covered by seat, again thanks for the comments, seeing that screw used as a plug concerned me, i feel much better now.
 

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it is as you thought rear of tank, covered by seat, again thanks for the comments, seeing that screw used as a plug concerned me, i feel much better now.
Glad you have things sorted out now, Bear222!

Mind your petcock lever; for safety's sake, you SHOULD turn it to the OFF position, each time you leave your bike idle. Otherwise, a compromised float valve seal could drain the entire fuel tank contents into the engine and/or onto the ground/floor. The stock vacuum-actuated petcock automatically shuts off the fuel source when the engine is dead.

As to the previous ambiguity regarding ports, after a few more posts you'll be permitted to post images, useful in clarifying such issues.

Oh, yes; welcome to the forum! :)
 

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want to witness fixes and modifications

Hello, I am not sure how exactly to navigate this site. SO many "something shiny" things. To keep it short. If anyone in the Everett area or reasonably close I would like to watch how you do ANY modifications or fixes. I want to learn about the KLR. I currently cannot get my 2000 miles, newer KLR to start. ( a clicking sound ) probably going to replace the battery today to start, but really just grasping at straws as I am not good at trouble shooting.
hope all is well.
 

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Hello, I am not sure how exactly to navigate this site. SO many "something shiny" things. To keep it short. If anyone in the Everett area or reasonably close I would like to watch how you do ANY modifications or fixes. I want to learn about the KLR. I currently cannot get my 2000 miles, newer KLR to start. ( a clicking sound ) probably going to replace the battery today to start, but really just grasping at straws as I am not good at trouble shooting.
hope all is well.
As you guessed that clicking sound when trying to start can be due to a bad battery. See undercharged battery below.
Or, it could be due to low water in a wet cell battery. Check the water levels and fill with DISTILLED water.
Or, it could be due to an undercharged battery. Check the volts at the battery posts and charge if less than 12.4 volts or so.
Or, it could be due to loose/weak/corroded connections at the battery. Clean and tighten the cable connections.
There are a few other things it could be, but these are the most likely. Let us know what you find.

Before buying a new battery take it to an auto parts store and ask them to load test the battery. When I replace a worn out battery on one of my motorcycles, I buy an AGM maintenance free type from the local parts store that does things like free tests. The price is about the same as anyplace else for the same quality. They usually have one in stock or on one day delivery. No shipping charge. And good and immediate warranty replacement.
 

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thanks

It WAS the battery. After the clicking,I tried to jump the battery with my car. It didn't work. That is why I thought it might be something other than the battery.
My battery is dated 2008 and it did have some dry cells. I put water in and it worked for only for a few "turns" of the key after charging it. then it stopped all together. Nothing. No headlight. no clicking nothing. I took parts off to try to learn by digging in. I found what I believe is the "relay" everyone talks about. It has the fat black wire coming in, and a second large black wire going directly to the starter. I also found two fuses here. One 20 amp was blown. I went and bought the fuses.
I had also taken the battery out and I went to TWO different auto parts stores . Both told me it was a bad battery. So I bought a AMG ( ?) battery. I installed the new battery and replaced the 20 amp fuse and it started. The only bad thing is that in taking the gas tank off, I was pulling the gas line off the tank. It came with some tugging but also came off the end that connects to the carb. The black plastic "thing" the hose connects to on the carbs broke. So it will now turn over, but now I have to wait tip tomorrow to get that little black thingy. I hope they sell that single piece. another question. If I was stuck somewhere, like out in the desert of Nevada and I thought it was the relay keeping the bike from starting, is it okay to "Take the two black wires that come to "that box" that I think is the relay, and bolt them together to bypass the relay, 1) would it work and 2) would it cause another problem ?
 

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................ If I was stuck somewhere, like out in the desert of Nevada and I thought it was the relay keeping the bike from starting, is it okay to "Take the two black wires that come to "that box" that I think is the relay, and bolt them together to bypass the relay, 1) would it work and 2) would it cause another problem ?
You could simply jump between the terminals on the relay those two black wires are connected to by touching both terminals with the tips of a pair of pliers or any other heavy conductor you had handy. This would power the starter and cause it to turn. With the key on the engine should start and you could then remove the pliers just like you would remove your thumb from the start button. Removing the pliers would kill the power to the starter and stop it. If you bolted the wires together, there would be lots of sparks while you were getting the bolt hooked up and then the starter would continue to run until you got the wires unbolted with many more sparks.

By the way, jumping to your car should have worked. Maybe your weren't making good contact at one of the batteries, but you might want to check your jumper cables.

Also, that is an AGM battery. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery
 

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thanks again

thanks again. I want to say these questions I have are probably so basic to you but when I an learning this stuff, the info is sooooo valuable. thanks.

if I don't need the relay, meaning I can just jump the wires together, why is the relay there ?
 

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thanks again. I want to say these questions I have are probably so basic to you but when I an learning this stuff, the info is sooooo valuable. thanks.

if I don't need the relay, meaning I can just jump the wires together, why is the relay there ?
Hard to answer without sounding smart-alecky . The relay is there so you can just push the start button which closes the relay and jumps the wires for you.

That way you don't have to get out your pliers and jump the wires every time you want to start your engine. Very inconvenient if the bike dies in the middle of a busy intersection.

Kawasiki could have run those two big wires all the way up to where the start button is and put a really big button between the wire ends and eliminated the relay, but the big wires might have cost as much as the relay and they wouldn't bend very well when you turn the bars. Also, -you are gonna like this - there is another smaller relay that is controlled by the start button and then the little relay pushes the big relay's button to jump the two big wires. The extra little relay is in there for safety reasons. It keeps the starter from working unless the transmission is in neutral or the clutch is pulled and the side stand up.
 
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