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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 KLR;
37.5k I replaced my old brake rotors front and back. The rear didn't need replacing, but the stock front had thinned enough to start pulsating (developed lateral runout). Now at 39.8k miles (just under 3 months after install) it's developed a new lateral runout of just over 0.003". Hub (measured just inside the rotor fasteners) shows less than 0.001" lateral runout.

New brake rotor is Tusk Typhoon TSW6309 purchased from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC (great retailer by my couple of experiences with them). First time with Tusk though...

My wheel seems to show about 0.006" lateral runout (measured at rim).
Is that lateral runout at the wheel likely to have caused my lateral runout in the rotor?
Is it more likely a poorly manufactured rotor?

Trying to soundboard before contacting Rocky Mountain and/or Tusk. I want to make sure I didn't make any mistakes.
 

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2018 KLR650
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I think you would need to verify the hub run out without the rotor.I think if the hub had runout that could multiply the rotor runout.

Could be some junk behind the rotor also.

If you have the right inspection equipment you could check the flatness of the rotor.

Does the braking seem that bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Brake feel started fine and continued to be good for the first 500 or so miles taking it easy to seat the pads. Feel continued to be good for the next 1000 or so. Then it started to fall off. It's as noticeable as it was with the old rotor - rhythmically/cyclically grabby on coming to a stop. I'd say bad, and usually I can put up with idiosyncracies. But it's especially bad, as I tried to fix this exact problem and thought I had.

Good recommendation to check the hub after removing the rotor. I thought to do it that way, but it looked more extensive than I felt it needed to be for a general assessment for culpability.
 

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Wheel rim run-out is dependant of the wheel spokes. Wheel hub mounting area needs to be measured with And With-Out the disc attached.

I'll bet that the TUSK rotor is the problem. Any company that supplies a STEEL Washer (rather than an aluminum gasket) with a magnetic engine oil Drain Plug can NOT be trusted, IMO!!
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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The rim has nothing to do with the hub and/or rotor runout.

One of the problems with made-in-China crap is material specification and quality. I’ve had similar problems with brake rotors for cars. The pulsing may be caused by lateral runout of the rotor, or uneven wear of the rotor (thicker on one part than the opposite side), or uneven friction around the rotor due to variance in the material composition. The OE Kawasaki parts or reputable aftermarket like EBC may be much more expensive, but they’re much higher quality in ways that you can’t see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you.
I'll be measuring the hub without the rotor attached, and then likely getting in touch with Tusk and/or Rocky Mountain.
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Measure the thickness around the disc too. I’ve found that .002” gives noticeable pulsing.
 

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Sure it isn't anti-lock breaking kicking in? Oh, yeah, the only anti-lock system on our KLRs is that long rubber hose. 😁
 
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