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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. need help. I have a green 06 klr... Never had any problems with it. done just general maintenance on it..I went to leave work, and the head light, tail light and dash lights are out.. bike runs fine. neutral light works. brake light works. parking light works, blinkers work....This is the first issue I have had with this bike. sad to say, I don't even know where fuse box is....right now its my only ride, so I need to fix it quick.. I am not a good electrician, so please be patient with me....thanks
 

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Fuse box should be under the seat. If it is a fuse it could also blow from a short. A wire may have rubbed through and is touching the frame somewhere.
 

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Those are all on a single fuse. As vinnie says it could be a short anywhere on that circuit.

Those glass fuses also come apart after enough years of rattling around. I'd replace the fuse and carry a spare. Check the wires for to all those lights for worn or pinched areas but don't panic if you don't find anything.

Lots of people change the fuse holder to use blade fuses. Glass fuses have worked for my KLR for well over 40,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks guys, good advice... yea ,it was the 10 amp fuse under the seat. Not sure why it blew, but just have to keep a eye on it....I bought this bike in 08 with 1400 miles on it... it has 18000 now....I live in Colorado, and bought it to drive to mtns, and trail ride.. turns out its a little too big for that.. I lowered it so get my feet on the ground...I still use it for dirt roads and county roads, and for camping.. it will carry all my gear for a camping trip....which is cool.. I have been putting off doing the valves.. still starts easy, but I know its due..... never done a cup motor before.......I keep it because its reliable and tough...
 

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It's the high altitude. 10 amp fuses are only good to about 2,000 feet. ;-)

Many of us switch the Headlight Fuse to 15 amp because it is possible to blow the 10 amp if one is slow in switching between high and low beam. I also go up to 20 amp on the Main Fuse although it isn't subject to the headlight load since the VRR supplies power to the White Wire between Main Fuse and Ignition Switch.

Someone recommended going to weatherproof inline blade type fuses and I add to that recommendation. The inline holders are usually long enough to drop down beside the frame upright so they can be reached without pulling the seat. Ditto to changing the Cooling Fan Fuse.

At $4.50 for five holders, it's worth keeping some around, IME.

5 Pcs Waterproof Power Socket Mini Type In Line Fuse Holders With 10A Fuse SR1G





thanks guys, good advice... yea ,it was the 10 amp fuse under the seat. Not sure why it blew, but just have to keep a eye on it....I bought this bike in 08 with 1400 miles on it... it has 18000 now....I live in Colorado, and bought it to drive to mtns, and trail ride.. turns out its a little too big for that.. I lowered it so get my feet on the ground...I still use it for dirt roads and county roads, and for camping.. it will carry all my gear for a camping trip....which is cool.. I have been putting off doing the valves.. still starts easy, but I know its due..... never done a cup motor before.......I keep it because its reliable and tough...
 

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Nice and cheap but I am so tired of being tempted to buy cheap chinese crap only to have it fail quickly. I'm at the point that I believe that Chinese mfg. create products just to fail. I've had too many issues with buying cheap junk, spending time to install, spending time to fix or uninstall that I just won't do it anymore.

For me I buy eastern beaver products. Good quality, much more expensive, but peace of mind often has a cost.

PC-8
 

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Very many Chinese made products are of good quality and last for as long or longer than those made in other countries, IME. I am willing to bet a box of donuts that Eastern Beaver do not make their components, just as Kawasaki and virtually all equipment makers use the same practice.

I represent that I am both qualified and experienced to evaluate electrical components and see that the harnesses and other products brought to me to install are made of the same types and quality of components as are these.



Nice and cheap but I am so tired of being tempted to buy cheap chinese crap only to have it fail quickly. I'm at the point that I believe that Chinese mfg. create products just to fail. I've had too many issues with buying cheap junk, spending time to install, spending time to fix or uninstall that I just won't do it anymore.

For me I buy eastern beaver products. Good quality, much more expensive, but peace of mind often has a cost.

PC-8
 

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My apologies Sir.

Not trying to cause a squabble and sorry if I came off wrong. I had some cheap chinese stuff fail the last couple of days and just venting.

I have used easter beaver on all my bikes and like their products. Just stating that they are Japanese made is all.
 

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... as to why the fuse failed, as Norm alluded; when you switch between high and low beam (especially if it's slow or you pause) both elements are lit at the same time which causes the 10a fuse to blow.

Personally, I haven't bothered upgrading the fuses to the blade type, I just use dielectric grease on the connection points and carry a spare...

Cheers,
Dave
 

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I just might vent from time to time also. :)

We can't take Dave Pelletier's advice on electrical connections because he lives in the Canadian equivalent of Arizona. ;-)

I can't recall any Gen1 fuse holders which have failed despite being kept sprayed and have the clips re-tensioned.
I do like to extend the fuse holders down where they can be reached without removing Tupperware. I may be biased because I tend to encounter bikes when they have problems.




My apologies Sir.

Not trying to cause a squabble and sorry if I came off wrong. I had some cheap chinese stuff fail the last couple of days and just venting.

I have used easter beaver on all my bikes and like their products. Just stating that they are Japanese made is all.
 

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... as to why the fuse failed, as Norm alluded; when you switch between high and low beam (especially if it's slow or you pause) both elements are lit at the same time which causes the 10a fuse to blow.

Personally, I haven't bothered upgrading the fuses to the blade type, I just use dielectric grease on the connection points and carry a spare...

Cheers,
Dave
+1!

Since Generation 1 handlebar switchgear sometimes activates both high and low beams simultaneously, some Big Boys On The Playground suggest replacing the OEM 10-amp headlight fuse with a 15-amp fuse.

As have I. No problem from the temporary simultaneous two-beam contact, and my bike hasn't burned up . . . yet!

No offense intended in this post; contrary opinions and suggestions welcomed! :)
 

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I can't recall who it was but one of the very old timers on one of the groups reported that he habitually rode, holding the dimmer switch in the center to keep both high and low on. So far as know, he never reported any problems although some of us were concerned about overheating the switch. The small wire size on the Gen1 may have helped to protect him. Gen2 is even smaller.

My experience agrees with Damocles' that the important thing is keeping the connections tight and using something to prevent corrosion in the connections.



+1!

Since Generation 1 handlebar switchgear sometimes activates both high and low beams simultaneously, some Big Boys On The Playground suggest replacing the OEM 10-amp headlight fuse with a 15-amp fuse.

As have I. No problem from the temporary simultaneous two-beam contact, and my bike hasn't burned up . . . yet!

No offense intended in this post; contrary opinions and suggestions welcomed! :)
 

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If the 10-amp OEM headlight fuse is thoroughly adequate for all operating conditions I stand corrected (although one might wonder why a 10-amp fuse would blow); further, if fusing to 15 amp rating jeopardizes safety and reliability, I regret uttering the suggestion.

Now equipped with a two-relay headlight wiring harness and a CANADIAN H4 bulb from TPI, I am unconcerned about handlebar headlight switchgear heat.

Full disclosure: I installed a 15-amp headlight fuse, at my peril.

Just musing about fuse ratings, I notice Generation 2s upgraded fan fuses from 10 amp to 15 amp capacity.
 

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On generation 2's, the low stays on and the high beam is added.

My xenon high beam is stoopid bright and can send oncoming traffic into the weeds.
(I live in farm country and the deer population is that of an infestation.)

CheapAndIlluminatingTheBlackness
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey guys, I am back, with the head light issue..so I think what happened now is I blew the high beam bulb, and that's what blew the fuse initially...now I just have low beam.....but then when I went to leave my moms place tonight,, nothing .. no headlight period..but I did have instruments and tail light....so I was letting the bike warm up and bang"""" headlight was back. for no reason..so I started home,, and it went out again. so I pulled over, and jiggled the switch around and it came back on,, and stayed on the rest of the way home.... so, my conclusion now is it might be the switch itself on the handle bar.. got a bad connection or something.....what do you guys think...
 

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Since the OP rides a Generation 1, here is a link to one of the many applicable wiring diagrams for that model on the Internet (Disclaimer: Not MY Flickr account; just a random URL from the many hits from Googling, "KLR650 Wiring Diagram."):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/wandereye/2274847735

A minor editorial note; although the rear brake light switch is shown, it is not labeled. This omission apparently plagued the FIRST edition of this wiring diagram; remains with us today!

No speeka Drop-Box, but the Internet renditions can be printed, enlarged, etc.; one had an interactive feature whereby placing the cursor on an area and mouse-clicking produced an enlarged view of the area of interest.

Regardless, tracing the headlight circuitry shows its independence from other lighting circuitry.

I have a TPI dual-relay plug-'n'-play, separately-fused headlight wiring harness; offers advantages of higher voltage delivered to headlight bulb, uses handlebar headlight switches only for control voltage (not full headlight current, as does stock configuration). "Fail-safe," system easily restored to stock configuration by switching connectors.

I digress. A wiring diagram and multi-meter should help diagnose the problem.
 

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Hey guys, I am back, with the head light issue..so I think what happened now is I blew the high beam bulb, and that's what blew the fuse initially...now I just have low beam.....but then when I went to leave my moms place tonight,, nothing .. no headlight period..but I did have instruments and tail light....so I was letting the bike warm up and bang"""" headlight was back. for no reason..so I started home,, and it went out again. so I pulled over, and jiggled the switch around and it came back on,, and stayed on the rest of the way home.... so, my conclusion now is it might be the switch itself on the handle bar.. got a bad connection or something.....what do you guys think...
I had a similar problem this past summer away from home and parts. i betting it's your switch. Open it up and you'll probably see some broken plastic in there. It's kinda a wimpy with IMO. I ended up having no low beam and not able to switch to high. I took the switch out of the housing and ran a jumper wire so I would have some sort of headlight. I'd like to replace it with a switch our of Europe but so far haven't found a way to get it here.
 
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