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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I've been battling fuel issues with my KLR. Started when I left it sit too long with gas in the carb. I tilted the carb and sprayed it with carb cleaner, figuring that if I could get it running I'd run some seafoam or something thru it.

Sorry, this is a little long.

When I tried to start the bike I had no fuel to the carb (I have a clear fuel filter and can see if fuel is flowing).

So I figured the fuel filter was bad, bought one from Eagle Mike. Also got a screw upgrade and new spark plug. New (still clear) fuel filter, still no fuel.

Then I bought the petcock rebuild kit and "fixed" it. Still no fuel coming out of the tank.

Finally, I decided to go with the manual petcock from Eagle Mike. Put it on and checked that fuel flowed out both for the on and reserve settings, it did. Put the tank back on, connected the hoses and put the cap on the vacuum thing on top of the carb. Turned the petcock to on, no fuel to the filter. Pulled the end of the hose off the carb and checked that fuel flowed (it did) but nothing flowing when attached to the carb.

I'm sure I missed something basic, can someone point me toward it, please. :surrender:

Thanks!
 

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I would guess that the most likely cause is that your floats are stuck, shutting the fuel inlet valve off. Remove the bowl and check the operation of the float. When the float moves down it will pull the float needle out of the valve. If they sit for a long time with a full bowl they can be come stuck. As the fuel in the bowl evaporates, they remain stuck.

Another, more remote, possibility is a clogged vent line. There is a carb bowl vent that has a hose running from it. It is on the left side of the carb coming out of a barb. Depending on the year of your KLR the vent line will either run down by the shock to the bottom of the bike or it will run up over the air box.

That line needs to be clear to let air out of the carb bowl so that fuel can come in. If it is clogged the air can't get out of the bowl and fuel can't come in. Any bike that sits for a long time can become a home for critters. Might be some critters have set up houslekeeping in the vent line. It would be odd.

Tom
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not very carb savvy.

Is removing the bowl from the carb complicated? What do the floats look like?

Would this float problem stop gas from flowing out of the tank to the carb?

Thanks!
 

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No problem with carb savvy.

It is easy. There are four screws on the bottom of the bowl. Remove them and the bowl can be dropped off. Hopefully all you will have to do is gently set the floats free. Then replace the bowl and see what happens. Takes just a few minutes and can be done with the carb on the bike.

You'll be working upside down from this, but take a look at this video, starting at 9:00, to see what you'll be doing and what the floats look like.


Your carb will have JIS screws (like Phillips, only not quite) on the bottom. You'll need to rotate the carb to get access and you'll need a short screwdriver to do it. A Phillips #2 will do in a pinch, but be careful not to let the screwdriver slip. You can dip the tip fo the scrrewdriver in a bit of oil and then dab it in some fine sand if you have it available; that will make it less likely to slip.

You can watch the first two minutes of both of the videos in this series to learn about rotating the carburetor.

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL3s67DOJbACwS_n6-lRcka2-DIAmdX1Ez

You can watch the whole series of five videos to see what the KLR carb is like, if you want to.

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL3s67DOJbACxmD1ELlzJDN-M-H_ha-mIF

Yes, that float problem would stop gas from flowing. In fact, in the upward position, that's what the floats are supposed to do.

Tom
 
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Not carb savvy is no problem. If you eventually need to go deep, there are videos to help.

Try taking the end of a screw driver handle and rap it on the side of the bowl. Often, if the floats are stuck, that will loosen them. See what happens; try it a couple of times.

If that doesn't help we can go to the next step.

Tom
 
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I'm not very carb savvy.

Is removing the bowl from the carb complicated? What do the floats look like?

Would this float problem stop gas from flowing out of the tank to the carb?

Thanks!
#1, No.
#2, Go to here,Care & Feeding Of The Keihin Carb
Read it all. Then go back up to Float System.

#3, YES.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Ok.

Finally got the bottom off the carb! :cool0012:

Much more of an ordeal than I expected because the screws are made of a metal just a little softer than cheese. :arghh: 2 of them stripped the second my screw driver touched them. Ended up using a removal tool from home depot. Also had to remove the carb from the rubber sleeves holding it in place to get to the screws. Fortunately I have the Eagle Mike carb screw upgrade.

Anyway, I have it open and spritzed it with carb cleaner. I'm starting to read the "Care and Feeding" link above (Thanks!) but figured I'd ask in the mean time if by pulling the carb out of the rubber sleeves I could have damaged anything, and if there are other things I can check/clean while the bowl is off.

Oh, and the floats (the round plastic thing, right?) moved up and down freely, about 1/4 of an inch.

Thanks for all the help!!
 

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I didn't think you'd go that deep that fast. I have uncovered a post that I had second thoughts about after I posted it; look at post #4 above.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have some free time today and have wanted to get the KLR back on the road for a while. :bike:

Watching the videos, I see that the .22 mod was probably done on my bike by the guy I bought it from, as it has the little washers on the needle and the little plug/cover for the screw is missing.

I bought the bike when I lived in Torrance (shame I didn't find this forum then) from a guy who was a writer for Rider magazine. It has all of the "meaningful" upgrades; front disc, blade fuses, carb stuff, stainless bolts, offroad foot pegs, and a skidplate with a waterpump protector. Nothing cosmetic, but all (I think) good stuff.

It looks like I cracked the choke barrel, but it is still staying in place. Guess I'll be buying more parts. :SadSigh:

I guess while I have the carb (mostly) out, I'll take the top off again and make sure I assembled it properly last time. :think1:

Thanks again for all the help!
 

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Ok.

Finally got the bottom off the carb! :cool0012:

Anyway, I have it open and spritzed it with carb cleaner.

Oh, and the floats (the round plastic thing, right?) moved up and down freely, about 1/4 of an inch.

Thanks for all the help!!
mrsteve,
A 1/4 of an inch doesn't seem like full travel!

It is not so much the white plastic float which needs cleaned, but the silver Needle with the Black Rubber tip which the float pushes up against.

You Probably Need to slide the pivot pin out of the float and Possibly slip the needle retainer clip off of the needle to remove the float and Possibly Gently use a pair of pliers to Gently Pull the silver needle out of the brass seat.

If the interior of your carb is varnished brown or green and the jets are green, one can soak all of the KLR carb parts and the main body and float bowl in Genuine "Pine-Sol". (Imitation brands don't work.) Then wash out with water, compressed air, then aerosol carb cleaner thru every passage way.

After aerosol carb cleaner, I use metal polish on a home-made Q-tip to polish the brass float valve seat.
 
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..I bought the bike when I lived in Torrance (shame I didn't find this forum then)..
That's not the problem, the problem is you moved to Dallas. What, you work for Raytheon or sumpthin'?

You could just be pushing the thing across the city line and we'd have fun playing with it.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I removed the float but can't see what would have limited it's movement.

I can just slip that little spring/wire that the float pivoted on off and then pull the needle out and clean it?
 

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Yes, gently. Don't bend the tab.

Then use a q-tip with some past made of baking soda and water (unless you happen to have a fine lapping/polishing compound laying about) to clean and polish the seat. Of course, that needs to be cleaned well afterward.

Tom
 

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I was waiting for someone to mention "JETS" and pdwestman did in post #10, but I think they need a little more emphasis. It seems to me that the small idle jet is one of the first things to clog when gas/ethanol evaporates out of the float bowl and the main jet is next. Both are easy to remove with a screwdriver for inspection and cleaning.

Just poking a small copper wire up through them is not enough. Remove them and check the little holes on the side of the jet.

Coincidentally, my lawn mower wouldn't start yesterday after sitting for two years with gas in the bowl. The tiny little float needle was so stuck I could hardly pull it out with my finger nails. It's soaking in a gallon of Gunk Hydro Seal parts cleaner right not.
 

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I was waiting for someone to mention "JETS" and pdwestman did in post #10, but I think they need a little more emphasis.

Coincidentally, my lawn mower wouldn't start yesterday after sitting for two years with gas in the bowl. The tiny little float needle was so stuck I could hardly pull it out with my finger nails. It's soaking in a gallon of Gunk Hydro Seal parts cleaner right not.
GoMotor,
I would have figured grass to grow faster than that, down in Texas. I need to mow at least every 2 weeks here in Wyoming.

Is Gunk Hydro Seal plastic and rubber safe??

mrsteve,
Just to reduce any confusion here. Pine-Sol is plastic and rubber safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've been hesitant to pull the jets or unscrew stuff from the carb. Worry that they may need to be seated in an exact position and when I try to put them back ...

I'll go pick up some pine sol today. I'm guessing that I can soak the jet and the bowl in pine sol to remove the varnish, then rinse them with water to remove the soap and spray with carb cleaner to remove the water?

Hey GoMotor! I know it's a big state, but you wouldn't happen to be in the DFW area, would you?
 

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GoMotor,
I would have figured grass to grow faster than that, down in Texas. I need to mow at least every 2 weeks here in Wyoming.
Is Gunk Hydro Seal plastic and rubber safe??.......
I thought I might get some flack about how long the mower sat.

No. Gunk Hydro Seal II is not safe for rubber and plastic according to the label. I can tell you that a few years back I over looked the coasting enricher diaphragm and left it in the carb in the Gunk over night and it still seems to be working fine.
 

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I've been hesitant to pull the jets or unscrew stuff from the carb. Worry that they may need to be seated in an exact position and when I try to put them back ...

I'll go pick up some pine sol today. I'm guessing that I can soak the jet and the bowl in pine sol to remove the varnish, then rinse them with water to remove the soap and spray with carb cleaner to remove the water?

Hey GoMotor! I know it's a big state, but you wouldn't happen to be in the DFW area, would you?
I am down in Houston.

It is a good idea to remove those two jets for close inspection. Hold them up to a light to look through them. Just screw them back in gently snug. No special orientation. When you take the main jet (the big one sticking down between the floats) be careful the little silver cylinder on top of it doesn't fall out and get lost. Looking in the throat of the carburetor you can see it barely sticking up from the bottom around the big needle through the throat. It only goes back in one way, so make sure it can be seen. If it is backward it will not show in the throat.
 

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Tom's "Carb Overhaul" videos, and "Care and Feeding" should provide enough info for an intrepid shade-tree mechanic to clean and adjust his carb, IMHO.

The divided bin holder for each of the removable parts, suggested in the videos, remains a golden idea.

If that ain't enough, professional help may be needed. A good Kawasaki mechanic, or even a good HARLEY technician (some Harleys use a similar carb) should be able to perform the job.

As to fuel not flowing from the petcock . . . after the float bowl fills, fuel will NOT flow, because an operational float valve closes.

Clogged jets seem likely; following Tom's video clip guidance, they can be removed/cleaned/replaced. No precision involved; jets are either IN or OUT. Fear not!
 
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