Kawasaki KLR Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, just joined. I am second time KLR owner but first time wrencher. I just got a new to me 2008 KLR. It was having some issues so I went through it. Adjusted valves, changed oil, flushed radiator, checked doohickey (eagle mike). BTW the bike was starting well cold but not restarting when warmed up. So figured needed to clean the carburetor. Here’s where I think I went wrong. I removed but did not completely disassemble the carb. I accessed the jets to remove and clean only. I have cleaned carbs on older bikes before but not a KLR - at this time I didn’t have a good maintenance manual- I do now. This all said I sprayed some carb cleaner into some of the channels as well as some compressed air from a can not a compressor. I did not realize there were rubber diaphragms that regulate fuel air mix at higher speeds. Now all back together. On my ride the bike starts perfectly hot or cold. It accelerates thru 1 to 5th gears very well. However, at about 65 to 70 mph it accelerates incredibly slow in 5th gear and the throttle is completely open. Anyone here able to share your experiences on this would be so welcome. What do I need to consider before diving back in? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,090 Posts
My suggestion:

Check out, "Carb Overhaul" thread on this website.

Several video sequences walk you through complete disassembly, adjustment, and reassembly. Might not hurt to look at, "Care and Feeding of the CVK40" also.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,882 Posts
How did it accelerate Before you went into the carb? 34-36 hp is never going to be 'Quick' in top gear.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ymracing

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How did it accelerate Before you went into the carb? 34-36 hp is never going to be 'Quick' in top gear.
It definitely accelerated better than it does now by a longshot. I am thinking if my carb cleaner roached the rubber diaphragm maybe the motor is not getting enough air or fuel - beats me - at high speed.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,882 Posts
You really NEED to read the previously supplied link before we go much deeper!!
Did you remove the top plastic cap at some point?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You really NEED to read the previously supplied link before we go much deeper!!
Did you remove the top plastic cap at some point?
Nope... I will watch the videos. I will pull it off and check everything and order a carb kit if needed. Maybe will anyway.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,882 Posts
Carb parts are not your problem, proper cleaning & reassembly seems to be the issue, as usual.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ymracing

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Probably- but where I live getting parts can be a problem and can take over a week to arrive. I agree with you tho knowing what’s going on, proper assembly...patience and not going in blindly would have helped. I will acquire patience and knowledge and I appreciate all the time here. Will watch links tomorrow for MLK day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I have now watched the videos. I am confident that my shenanigans with the ‘not fully disassembled’ carb - blew carb cleaner and air into the holes where I had removed the pilot and main jet assemblies. Like I said it rides rather well 0 to 55 mph - what I’d expect for a low hp bike. Does anyone think riding it a few times as is would cause further problems until I get a few parts delivered? I feel like a daft idiot. Education ain’t cheap.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,141 Posts
Education is cheap, it's the tuition that is a killer. And, my oh my, how I have spent on tuition.

I don't think it would hurt things. The main diaphragm lifts the slide when there is a large pressure differential between the two sides of the diaphragm. What usually happens is folks remove the top and the slide, but don't get the diaphragm back in it's sealing groove properly. That creates a leak the prevents the slide from rising pully against the spring pressure and the bike acts like it is running out of power but it can actually run pretty well at lower throttle openings. The smaller the hole, the better it will run, and vice versa, to the point where a small hole may go unnoticed.

I'd remove the slide and inspect the diaphragm to see if there is a wee hole or not or if the diaphragm may have been incorrectly installed at some point in the past and you aggravated it. Diaphragms are cheap - about $20 - and not too hard to install. They used to be sold in a few different places including Amazon, but now I see they are only on e-bay. Search for "klr650 cvk40 diaphragm membrane". CV Performance has a reasonably priced complete slide, too. CVK40 Vacuum Slide for KLR 650
 
  • Like
Reactions: DPelletier

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
As an aside, I too have become sluggish with no get up and go. It happened when I became "over 60".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well - First let me thank everyone for all the insights and video links. The bike is up and running well again and I appreciate all of you. Now the humor. I rebuilt the carb, all new gaskets and diaphragms, cleaned with a tooth brush and some small picks. Looks Brand dang new! During the re-install process I was connecting the throttle cable "slide" and realized there is a small tab cut out where a tab on the CV Carb body must be resting. Well... needless to say when I put this back after adjusting my valves I did not seat it therefore the slide was not opening effectively or fully. Unnecessarily rebuilt carb later... lessoned learned. Look forward to learning more with you guys and gals...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,882 Posts
I don't understand why you felt the need to disturb the throttle cables to inspect the valve tappets. I never have.

The throttle cables connect to the butterfly throttle plate, not to the slide. But I/we are glad that it is operating properly again.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top