Kawasaki KLR Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a 2016 klr 650 and I was trying to install a klr 600 kick start. Over the last couple months I've taken my entire engine apart and swapped part of the transmission with a 2010. I swapped the out put shaft that connects to the sprocket so I could add a idler gear on the end. Well I ran into some issues so took a break and put my original clutch basket and took all the kick start parts out.

My problem now is the Engine runs great but I'm getting no power to the rear wheel. I thought there was an issues with the clutch basket, but I haven't found any problems. I don't think there's an issues with the transmission, it shifts through all five gears fine. I'm kinda stuck and don't really want to take the entire engine apart again. Anyone know what's wrong?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,120 Posts
Did you do anything with the primary gear and not put it back in?

With the engine not running and the transmission in gear, can you push it forward and see the clutch turning through the oil filler hole?

Are you sure that the clip spring is still on the shifter rod and that the transmission is really shifting and not simply in neutral?

That's all I can think of right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you do anything with the primary gear and not put it back in?

With the engine not running and the transmission in gear, can you push it forward and see the clutch turning through the oil filler hole?

Are you sure that the clip spring is still on the shifter rod and that the transmission is really shifting and not simply in neutral?

That's all I can think of right now.
I didn't change or mess with the primary drive gear that connects to the clutch basket.

I had the bike running with the side clutch cover off to see if it all works and the clutch basket spins like it should. I had the bike up on a center stand and the back tire spins and accelerats with more gas but once I drop it off the center stand it no longer moves forward or gets power. I seems like it doesn't have enough for to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I didn't change or mess with the primary drive gear that connects to the clutch basket.

I had the bike running with the side clutch cover off to see if it all works and the clutch basket spins like it should. I had the bike up on a center stand and the back tire spins and accelerats with more gas but once I drop it off the center stand it no longer moves forward or gets power. I seems like it doesn't have enough for to go.
Tomorrow I'm gonna take the Engine apart again and see if the original transmission shaft is actually messing with the new one.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,120 Posts
That sounds like it's in neutral. Or the equivalent of neutral. Enough drag in everything to spin the rear, but it's just internal drag making things go around.
 
  • Like
Reactions: a4twenty

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
I had the bike running with the side clutch cover off to see if it all works...
it's been a couple years since i had a KLR but isn't the side cover required to keep the oil inside the engine?

before tearing it down again, I'd try Tom's suggestion. with the bike off and in gear rotate the rear wheel and see what spins. the engine should be giving resistance if it's in gear and the clutch is working properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
it's been a couple years since i had a KLR but isn't the side cover required to keep the oil inside the engine?

before tearing it down again, I'd try Tom's suggestion. with the bike off and in gear rotate the rear wheel and see what spins. the engine should be giving resistance if it's in gear and the clutch is working properly.
So I've done as suggested and the transmission works fine transitions through all the gears just fine. The issues is in the clutch, for some reason the plates aren't compressing and are able to spin independently of each other. That's why the back tire spins while up but not on the ground. I'm gonna take the clutch pack out and see what's wrong.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,006 Posts
I'll suggest that you have in-correct clutch plates (or number of plates) in an incompatible year of clutch. The drive/driven plate stack height is in-correct.

With the clutch cover OFF and a Screwdriver inserted between chain & rear sprocket teeth to jam the rear wheel from turning, use a wrench to turn the crankshaft. I'm sure that you will see the clutch plates slipping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I'll suggest that you have in-correct clutch plates (or number of plates) in an incompatible year of clutch. The drive/driven plate stack height is in-correct.

With the clutch cover OFF and a Screwdriver inserted between chain & rear sprocket teeth to jam the rear wheel from turning, use a wrench to turn the crankshaft. I'm sure that you will see the clutch plates slipping.
Never heard of this on a klr, but some early synthetic oil would make clutches slip. Had it happen on a kx 2t and an xr 4t. Just thinking about way in the past problems.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,120 Posts
What exactly do you have in there right now? Do you have an entire 2010 transmission?

A new incompatibility may have been discovered (but I haven't verified it yet) between the new clutch and old input shafts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What exactly do you have in there right now? Do you have an entire 2010 transmission?

A new incompatibility may have been discovered (but I haven't verified it yet) between the new clutch and old input shafts.
So I put back the original clutch basket and got it running again for a trip I'm taking. But I had the gen 1 basket in and it just wasn't sitting right with the gen 2 input shaft of the transmission. It would sit out to far. At some point I might take the gen 2 input shaft and swap it.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,120 Posts
Yeah, there's a dimension in there that is different. You're going to need to put the entire 2010 transmission in to mate with the early (pre-11 1/2 clutch). It seems that the stub of the output shaft on the two transmissions is not the same.

This is something I should have caught, I think, when I looked at the late clutch. However, it did not occur to me to try and mate that clutch to an earlier input shaft nor vice versa. I need to get a late transmission to look at, too. I also need to take a close look at the two clutch baskets and hubs and try and wrap my head around what is going on with this.

Then I need to figure out how to write it up and explain it. I must credit Jürgen Buchelt for calling my attention to this.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,120 Posts
I made this edit to the clutch article:
"You should be able to take a mid-2011 and later clutch backward to before mid-2011 so long as the clutch rod goes with it. This is wrong. For all intents and purposes, the mid-2011 and later complete clutch should just be considered incompatible with anything prior. In all my measuring, looking, poking, and prodding, I missed a critical dimension. For the clutch baskets, the thickness of the base of the basket plus the spacer washer is 1.215" (30.9mm). The hubs, however, are different. The hubs, up to mid-2011 are .69" (17.5mm) while the mid-2011 and later are .55" (14mm). I owe a big Thank You! to Jürgen Buchelt for taking the time to make me aware of this. Thanks, Jürgen!


When a clutch is mounted on an input shaft and the fixing nut is properly tightened, the entire clutch will have about .02" (.5mm) of axial play. When the clutch release lever pulls on the clutch rod to move the pressure plate, it can only do so because the hub and basket are closely trapped on the input shaft. If there were a lot of axial play then the release lever would simply pull the entire clutch along the input shaft and the clutch would not begin to release until all of that axial play had been taken up. If there was excessive play, then the slack would never be taken up and the clutch would never release.

Since the mid-2011 and later clutch hub is .14" thicker than the pre-mid-2011 hub it stands to reason that the input shaft must be .14" (3.6mm) longer than the pre-mid-2011 input shaft. If one were to put an early clutch on a late input shaft, that would be far too much axial play for the release lever to be able to even begin to move the pressure plate. Actuating the handlebar lever would do nothing more than move the entire clutch along the input shaft. Conversely, a late clutch on an early input shaft would result in the hub and basket being pinched together so that they could not freely move independently when the pressure on the clutch is relieved.

And that is why the mid-2011 and later clutch isn't backward compatible!"
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top