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Hi everyone,
just rebuilded the 1990 kawasaki klr 650, during the inspection of doohickey i found that the spring that holds the Doo has no tension at all, and the screw that holds the doohickey is at the end of it. The doohickey seems fine. When motor is running i can hear the noisy chain sound in the left side of engine. The question is, is it possible to add more tension to the doohickey, or i this is the end of the chain sprockets?
 

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Hi everyone,
just rebuilded the 1990 kawasaki klr 650, during the inspection of doohickey i found that the spring that holds the Doo has no tension at all, and the screw that holds the doohickey is at the end of it. The doohickey seems fine. When motor is running i can hear the noisy chain sound in the left side of engine. The question is, is it possible to add more tension to the doohickey, or i this is the end of the chain sprockets?
When you say the bolt that holds the doohickey is at the end of it, do you mean the doo is rotated fully clock wise or counter clock wise? Is the bolt at the right end of the slot in the doo or the left end?

If it is at the right end, there is no more adjustment range left in the doo and most likely the rubber shoulders on the sprockets are compressed or worn down. This usually happens before the chain wears out. How many miles ore on the KLR?

BALANCER CHAIN LENGTH SPEC says it should be replaced when the 20 link/21 pin length reaches 193.4 mm:
New 20 link length is 190.5mm
On my 2008 KLR at 97,000 miles length =191mm a long way from worn out.

The chain rides on the rubber shoulders of the sprockets and if the rubber is not torn up, just compressed by the chain side links, you can get some adjustment range back by re indexing the chain around one link on all the sprockets without moving the sprockets. I regained half an inch of adjustment by doing this.

The re indexing by one tooth causes the outer links to hit on uncompressed rubber next to where the inner links were before and the inner links hit next to where the outer links were before. If the rubber is torn up, you will need some new sprockets. It is important to keep all the sprockets properly indexed on their shafts and move the chain one tooth on all the sprockets including the crankshaft sprocket so the balance timing is not changed.

Helpful info here: MarkNet - KLR650
 

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Clever way to extend balancer chain life, GoMotor!

zulas, you might consider a new Eagle Mike doohickey implant, because . . . the aftermarket part has a greater adjustment slot range than the OEM part. Also, when you buy a new Eagle Mike doohickey, you will received tension springs of different lengths to use as appropriate.

Better still would be to order the Eagle Mike "torsion spring," a superior design all around.

A "best practice" approach would be to measure the balancer chain and replace it if out of service limits; however . . . the cost of new parts might exceed the value of the motorcycle!

Your bike; best wishes whichever path you choose.
 

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.............., you might consider a new Eagle Mike doohickey implant, because . . . the aftermarket part has a greater adjustment slot range than the OEM part. Also, when you buy a new Eagle Mike doohickey, you will received tension springs of different lengths to use as appropriate.
..............
I have thought for quite a while now that extension springs (stock type) were no longer available from Eagle Mike. I think he sells his torsion spring separately.
 

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Thanks for replies. The mileage is 70000 km. The doohickey screw is at the right end of Doo. Sorry for questions, English is not my native language so it's hard to understand for me technical stuff. As I understand to re-index the chain, i need to move the chain along all the sprockets per 1 tooth? Just found the interesting mod for this balancer system. What do you think about that?

Modified 2002 A16 KLR650 Balancer Mechanism

I'm thinking about the eagle mike doohickey but it's expensive to send to Europe, so i think first of all i will open the case and try other methods.
 

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Thanks for replies. The mileage is 70000 km. The doohickey screw is at the right end of Doo. Sorry for questions, English is not my native language so it's hard to understand for me technical stuff. As I understand to re-index the chain, i need to move the chain along all the sprockets per 1 tooth? Just found the interesting mod for this balancer system. What do you think about that?

Modified 2002 A16 KLR650 Balancer Mechanism

I'm thinking about the eagle mike doohickey but it's expensive to send to Europe, so i think first of all i will open the case and try other methods.
You posted in the gen1 pre-2008 section so I assume you have a gen1 KLR650 with the older type doohickey and spring that are both prone to break. So you need to decide if you want to reuse it or replace it with the newer design either from Kawasaki or Eagle Mike while you have the rotor removed.

From my experience at about 80,000 miles (130,000 km) re-indexing the chain one tooth in either direction gained 1/2 inch (12mm) of spring travel range. To re-index the chain, moved the chain along all four of the sprockets per 1 tooth. This includes the crankshaft sprocket and the doohickey sprocket. Make sure the rubber on the sprockets is damaged. The wire in the attached photo is the length of the stock spring and reached to the left edge of the attachment point on the left before re-indexing.

The link you posted to "Modified 2002 A16 KLR650 Balancer Mechanism" was very interesting. If I were to do this, I would at least want to use a gen2 doohickey and spring.
 

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Wow,
I had never seen that posting from Jake, before! I'm actually fairly new to the forums.
I personally met Jake once, at Hoover Dam. All just by chance. In the 'early days' of doo-hickey failures.
I regret to tell you, I did NOT pay as much ATTENTION to his words of wisdom that I should have.
Neither I, nor any of my customers ever paid the consequences, but I missed an opportunity to learn something, Earlier than I did!
 
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