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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I rode the klr650 (with rebuilt engine, that my brother had gotten rebuilt) 5 times up and down my street waiting on the title to get it legal and yesterday (xmas day) the engine barfed.

I came to a stop and when I went to take off again the engine started going
KLACKETY KLACKETY KLACK. It sounds like the top end so I stopped it and walked it back to the garage.

So.....what now ?

hmmmm

bummed out. My lab loves chasing it and can run 25 mph !
 

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Merry Freakin Christmas, damn sorry to hear that man...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
so what do i do, pull the entire engine out or just seat / tank and top end? I seem to remember the top end can be serviced while in the bike? Also, the engine still runs (though i'm not going to run it) but it makes that klakety klack noise. do you guys have any clues what would cause that? the noise follows the engine speed too. though it sounds like it's coming from the top end i know how sound travels in metal and can be deceptive.


Any tips to diagnose it quickly?
 

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The valves can be checked by removing the seat and tank.
Here is a link that describes the valve service.
http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Valves.pdf

You may also need to check the doohickey, altho it sounds more like a valve issue.
Link for Doohickey: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Doohickey.pdf

here is a link for an online repair manual. $35/year I have heard it is a great resource, but have not personally tried it out yet.
http://www.repairmanual.com/catalog/99924-1050-01

Keep us posted and hopefully is not anything serious.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I do have the clymer manual and hope things are not too grave. Thanks for the links.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If it's a timing chain what would allow the engine to run and make the klackety klackety noise? I'm just trying to get more ideas before I dive in. With only the sound to go by I'm wondering what kinds of problems could cause that sound.

Sounds like it's time for another rebuild. Hopefully it's something simple like the timing chain.
 

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Sounds like a very loose timing chain.... I stayed at a Holiday Inn last weekend too!
 

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If it's a timing chain what would allow the engine to run and make the klackety klackety noise? I'm just trying to get more ideas before I dive in. With only the sound to go by I'm wondering what kinds of problems could cause that sound.
Honestly I'm the wrong person to identify an issue by described noises. It could be valves, do hicky bouncing around, or some other part that wasn't tightened correctly. I'd start with the top end since it's easiest to get into without draining oil and replacing seals.
Sorry for the bad luck.:(
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
so, do you think i should simply pull out the 2 bolt tensioner block first and reset the ratchet (been reading the manual) and then crank it up and see if it still KLACKS ? I don't guess there's a way to tell if it's loose without pulling the valve cover. Cuz if it's a loose timing chain doesn't it have to be that tensioner ?
 

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Who does your work!

This is one of the simplest motors built.How many kS on the engine?If this is a high k motor other things other things should be replaced along with the rebuild slow up on the rebuild hope your next one works out!!
 

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The very first thing to do is drop the oil and check for parts. Pull the oil filter and check for metal too. It's not to hard to find the problem based on what scrap metal you find.

What was the original problem that started the first rebuild? A rookie mistake is to put the original torn up oil pump back in. After any kind of engine damage the oil pump needs to be split open and checked for scoring.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
good news. i found the timing was off and fixed it and the bike now goes zoom zoom ! The original problem was a seized engine.

The timing chain jumped on me somehow. Anyways, the compression release on the camshaft looks fine, the camshafts are now lined back up and besides the burning smell which turned out to be my left over blood on the exhaust pipe all is well.

The only thing that concerned me was the valve clearances were tight.
EX L .003 (255 shim) EX R .006 (255 shim)
IN L .004 (270 shim) IN R .004 (270 shim)

The kawasaki shop said don't worry about it but the .003 is not within the .006 to .010 tolerance for exhaust. So what to do about that if anything ?

Also, I didn't use a torque wrench but just tightened them about the same as they were when I loosened them. Do I really need both an inch pounds and foot pounds torque wrench?

Thanks for all the tips !!!!
 

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All four of the valves need to be adjusted. That's probably why it jumped time, combustion backfire due to overlapping strokes.

Yes, you need and inch and foot pound torque wrench.
 

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Definately get an inch pound torque wrench, what I would normally think would be just right would always be WAYYYY too much torque. They aren't that much and also make sure it will read on the bottom end at least 60 ft. lbs. as the doohickey adjustment bolt and the engine side cover bolts are only set to 69 inch pounds. Glad to hear it is zooming again. Good find. You can also google "shim calculator". This lil program is nice, you enter in the info of gap and current shim size and it will calculate the exact shim size you will need to replace at each valve to obtain the correct setting. It is a freebie.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
the guys at my kawasaki shop thinks any clearance (even .003) is OK. Am I supposed to measure the valve clearance with the engine TDC and lobes pointing front on ex and rear on intake? that's what I'm currently doing, not with the lobes pointing UP. this site shows them as I'm doing it (http://klr6500.tripod.com/valves.htm)


I was thinking the wrong clearance could be causing the timing jump. I phoned and asked if they had these shims in stock and he said yes, so I drive 30 minutes to the shop and when I ask him for the shims he says he has a bunch in a box in the back and can trade me out for free but none of them are labeled so he can't tell what to give me. apparently their idea of "in stock" and mine are different.

so where's the best place to buy the shims since my dealer seems flakey.

I need:
2.35
2.45
2.60
2.65

I have to trade:
2.70
2.70
2.55
2.55


shim calc: http://3457.com/KLR-shim-calc.htm

Since it seems that the rebuilder didn't do a good job (letting valve clearances be at their serviceable endpoint) should I just pull the entire engine and tear it all apart and do it myself, replace rings, replace doohicky, etc? I have no confidence in this engine currently.
 

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Tight clearances did not cause the jump! What happend was a problem with the tensioner installation, most likely the engine got turned over with out it or it was not unlocked when started. running the valves at the bottom (tight end is OK most people prefer this as the motor is less tickie when hot. You could get away with throwing a 2.45 in the one exhaust. Most engines run a bit better with loose valve clearances however. Sounds like the stress of blasting down the highway without looking inside your engine could be a problem... If you can do it yourself why not the first time?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My brother passed away in May and my other brother got the bike and had the seized engine and another "ebay" / junkyard engine. He had a mechanic make one working engine out of them and then he asked me if I wanted the bike and I said yes. So I thought the engine would be solid. I have only gone up and down my street 5 times with my dog running along side doing hard accelerations from 10 to 45 mph 1st / 2nd gear only but zooming nicely.

It ran fine until the 5th of my 10 minute outings and then jumped timing so it ran well up to then. I'm just not clear what caused the jump and that's what concerns me.
 

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We've seen this a gazillion times. Yes, there can be the issue of the tensioner not extending...only seen that once and it doesn't run at all, it jumps time before it fires. The extremely tight clearances were the problem.

Whatever the cause you need to shim it according to what you posted. Buy those shims from www.arrowheadmotorsports.com install, recheck the clearances and ride happy.
 
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