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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I’ve read all the technical threads on here. I’m impressed with the knowledge and persistent drive to find the best solutions to some of the KLR 650s issues. So- since some of you ( Hello Tom !) already have oil filter caps and banjo bolts tapped for fittings, I’m just wondering if there is much difference in psi drop of the available brands of oil filters. If it’s even enough to psi difference to measure. (Not trying to start a war on oil filter brands). I have cut open a lot of oil filters in my day, usually from the first (2) oil changes on a new bike to see what was inside, and to check how much filter media was in various filters. I’m sure some of the filters available for the KLR are possibly better than others just with available media,amount of material, # of pleats, etc. ok, inquiring minds want to know.!
 

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rodent64,
On a 500 mile brand new KLR650 oil filter, most of what people see are the Pink & Blue Paint Pen flakes (But they don't realize its only paint). Yes, there will also be some aluminum flake and the occasional steel sliver that slid thru the coarse oil pre-screen & thru the pump.

I recommend inserting a rubber/vinyl shipping nipple from a wet cell battery into the 6:00 oil port to the crankshaft before tilting the bike to the RH side to drain the oil filter cavity. Don't want any crumbs or chips flowing into the bottom rod bearing oil passage. The crumbs/chips which do not embed into the filter media will be back in the LH corner of the oil filter cavity.
The Back Side of the oil filter (near the cold oil by-pass valve opening) would be the best side to stick a Motion Pro Oil Filter Magnet. MP#11-0083, re-usable for ever!

Many people install magnetic drain plugs, but I caution their usage. If the chosen plug has incompletely CUT Threads & is installed without a thick crush gasket the incompletely Cut Threads at the base of the plug can wedge the oil drain boss completely open, breaking the engine case.
The factory drain plug has formed threads & is flanged, and will usually seal even without a gasket, and without breaking the drain boss.

Attempting to measure the oil pressure drop between different brands of oil filters is nothing that I feel the need to attempt to perform. I use OEM or Hi-Flo oil filters.
But I do look forward to results if you do perform such testing. :)
 

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If Paul hasn't done it (measure restriction of oil filters), then no one has. I'd suggest it doesn't matter.....I use the OEM filters FWIW.

making sure you have the oil filled to the very top of the sightglass, not thowing away your bypass tube and making sure your drain plug washer is present and accounted for as well as not over torquing the plug are about the only things you need to be concerned with IMO.

Cheers,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Geeez, that’s too easy. Ok ...well then, which brand has more filter media/ pleats/ surface area if pulled apart and laid on a table ?
 

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Geeez, that’s too easy. Ok ...well then, which brand has more filter media/ pleats/ surface area if pulled apart and laid on a table ?
A modest proposal: YOU buy various brands of oil filters, dissect ((destructive testing) them yourself; and . . . you tell us! :)

Note carefully, oil filter LENGTH. FRAM KLR filters have appeared of different lengths, sometimes interfering with fitment. The lengths measured have varied with country of manufacture, e.g., Korea, Mexico, etc. But, . . . you get FREE O-rings!







Bonus tip: When you change your oil filter, first loosen oil filter cover bolts 1/2-1 turn. Start engine and immediately kill it. Oil pressure will force oil filter cover out from its cavity a short distance, providing a space to grab the part and pull it out when you remove the bolts entirely--no need to jab a flat-blade screwdriver into the intersection and pry out the cover. (This is NOT a rib, a joke encouraging you to spill oil all over the place--the O-ring confines the oil; just don't back out the bolts TOO far!)

All this filter discussion . . . Honda made JILLIONS of small-displacement engines with NO replaceable oil filters, depending upon reasonable oil change intervals to keep 'em running. And . . . my riding partner's approaching 100,00 miles (he lives in south Texas (Sugar Land)) on his '08; has muddled through, somehow, with garden-variety off-the-shelf oil filters, AFAIK. Don't think the BRAND of filter critical, or maybe the filter itself. I bought a used KLR; discovered the PO had jettisoned the bypass tube. Filter present, but filtering no oil in that configuration. No known consequences, after I restored the appropriate configuration.

Here's a bonus image, Cycleracks kit:



Hope to see an image of your racks. BTW, you did mention bash plate in your previous farkle inventory, right?
 

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Also, oil-wise: With tools and delight in tinkering, you might consider drilling your oil drain plug and safety-wiring it.

Further, the metal mesh/gauze/screen re-usable ("lifetime") oil filters might interest you.
 

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All this filter discussion . . . Honda made JILLIONS of small-displacement engines with NO replaceable oil filters, depending upon reasonable oil change intervals to keep 'em running.

Yep, I've owned six of them. Many people have thrown away the KLR's bypass tube, just like your PO did and I've yet to hear of any lasting damage. I change my oil at 2,000 - 3,000 miles and at those kind of intervals, I'm convinced my KLR would last a very long time without any filter whatsoever. ....Not suggesting you should run without one but I think of it as a "belt and suspenders" type deal on the KLR. The filter's biggest contribution to the KLR is probably stopping the odd errant doo/spring bits and silicon assy snakes from migrating further.

I wouldn't concern myself about what filter is best but if you're worried about it, I'd avoid Fram and I know the Kawi one is pretty decent.

2 cents,
Dave
 

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Damocles, how long have you been setting on this little tip?

Anyone else on these pages ever use (that) trick?

One could leave the engine running after warming the oil in preparation of changing and loosen those 2 filter cap bolts at least 1 Full Turn (1mm/.040") just prior to turning the key off. With fully warmed engine oil one might have to rev it a bit to push the cap & o-ring that 1st millimeter, as the actual pressure near idle is Very Low.


With my 100% oil filtration modification this trick may not work. Because of the square area of applied oil pressure will only be from the center of the by-pass tube, instead of the full diameter of the cap.
 

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Damocles, how long have you been setting on this little tip?
Well, I came upon the concept some time ago, when I was experimenting with the concept of--the O-ring contains the oil, even with the oil filter cover bolts OUT. The concept may be valid with your, "100% oil filtration" modification, but stock . . . remove the bolts, start the engine, and . . . GET THE KIMWIPES!!!!!!!!

The Thermo-Bob man (Watt Man) found COLD oil yielded high PSI data (around 70 PSI, IIRC); fully enough to push the cap out, I'd think. Yet, everything seems a mix of compromises and consequences; hot oil at higher rpm (than idle) should push the filter cover out; and . . . as you infer, changing hot oil (and filters) is better than draining cold oil.

In my further experiments in this vein, I found: a SINGLE oil filter cap bolt adequately holds incident oil pressure; two bolts provide sensible redundancy. Just mentioning; if someone strips threads or breaks a bolt, not the end of the world (yet). A single bolt holds the pressure.

The procedure discussed above saves fingernails, and . . . makes the inconvenience of searching for a thin flat-blade screwdriver unnecessary! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Appreciate the info and tips from all you guys. And I just may do the filter media spec/ destructive study to find out which filter has what. Hey Damocles, As far as the different length oil filters/country of origin, is the shorter of the two the correct one ? Also as far as removing the oil filter cap ,what I did on my DRZ was rotate the oil filter cap after taking the (3) bolts out. Then the bolt hole ears stuck past the case allowing me to just grab and pull out. But I assume the oil filter cap on the KLR have a lug or index groove so you can’t turn it after the bolts are out ? That is Because the oil feed hole has to line up with the housing .Is that correct ?
 

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And I just may do the filter media spec/ destructive study to find out which filter has what. Hey Damocles, As far as the different length oil filters/country of origin, is the shorter of the two the correct one ? Also as far as removing the oil filter cap ,what I did on my DRZ was rotate the oil filter cap after taking the (3) bolts out. Then the bolt hole ears stuck past the case allowing me to just grab and pull out. But I assume the oil filter cap on the KLR have a lug or index groove so you can’t turn it after the bolts are out ? That is Because the oil feed hole has to line up with the housing .Is that correct ?
Within the variance measured, each filter fit. Internet reports mentioned the appearance of FRAM filters too long for cover closure, but these Indian and Korean point samples measured worked OK. Please measure and report length of any FRAM CH6070 filters you dissect and examine.

The KLR650 oil filter chamber cover likely can be rotated by the "DRZ" method you mention, assuming stock configuration; don't recall any keyway or stud confining rotation. Don't know about engines with Paul's full filtration modification.
 

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As far as the different length oil filters/country of origin, is the shorter of the two the correct one ? Also as far as removing the oil filter cap ,what I did on my DRZ was rotate the oil filter cap after taking the (3) bolts out. Then the bolt hole ears stuck past the case allowing me to just grab and pull out. But I assume the oil filter cap on the KLR have a lug or index groove so you can’t turn it after the bolts are out ? That is Because the oil feed hole has to line up with the housing .Is that correct ?
I doubt anyone knows what the correct KLR oil filter length is. The 0.16cm (0.063") variation indicated in the above post is probably not too precise and thus insignificant, in my mind anyway. As Dave pointed out, the KLR engine would endure for a loooong time with no filter at all. Many British bikes had no oil filters, save for a wire screen designed to keep the June bugs out of the oil pump. However, I do use an oil filter on my KLR, but usually Fram because that's what my local auto parts house stocks.

The oil filter cap on a KLR is easily removed; it can be twisted, but it's not necessary. There is a tab on the cap that can be used to gently pry it off if the extra force is required.

Best,

Jason
 

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The KLR650 oil filter chamber cover likely can be rotated by the "DRZ" method you mention, assuming stock configuration; don't recall any keyway or stud confining rotation. Don't know about engines with Paul's full filtration modification.
The 100% oil filtration mod has '0' negative effect on the installation or removal of the filter cap. The second o-ring which is simply trapped between the cavity ledge, filter face & the filter cap has about the same amount of compression as the grommets in the oil filters.

Glad to see 'Norton 850' stopped by for a visit. What do you all think of the new 'Blue & Orange' background over on .net?
Kind of bright on ones eyes, I fear. Hopefully it is only a short term experiment.
Here is a sample, https://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1504819#post1504819
 

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The .net screen had always been Orange borders, Black background with White letters on my computer. Partly why I sometimes call it the "dark.net" site.

This klrforum.com screen is Green borders, White background with Black letters on my computer. Fairly easy on my eyes.
 

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just checked it out; apparently some admin changed the default colors - mine didn't change for whatever reason. There is a button at the very bottom left of the page that lets you choose one of a half dozen schemes.

Dave
 
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