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Yes, they are all tapped 1/8" BSPP. I was disappointed at that as I like having the tip of the sensor in the oil flow. There are two of the 1/8" BSPP and one new M6 sensor here to compare. The 1/8" BSPP will have to live in a bit of a backwater position, but I'm sure it will make little to no difference.
 

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...I might just move my drill press into the shop as that should make drilling the case a less daunting proposition. I could run a tap into the existing hole, chuck that in the drill press to establish alignment, and then try to find a way to secure the case in that position...
When the port axis is normal to the drill press table the gasket surface will be at 80°, with the case inside the acute triangle. In other words, whatever supports the case will be leaning over backward.

An interesting problem in workpiece support for the home shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
When the port axis is normal to the drill press table the gasket surface will be at 80°, with the case inside the acute triangle. In other words, whatever supports the case will be leaning over backward.

An interesting problem in workpiece support for the home shop.
Of course. Having the port face be orthogonal to some other convenient surface just woldnt’ be right.:grin2:

Usually, with a good axial reference such as a bolt or tap in the threads which can be held in the drill press chuck, a way can be found to block and clamp a part into a rigid position. It has been a while since I did this, but usually it isn’t too bad with a drill press or similar. The biggest problem is that my drill press is buried in the back of a storage shed blocked by 18’ of junk.
 

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...I wonder if the case will need to be spot faced larger to accept the Trail Tech adapter?...
The answer to that is a de facto "No".

The current spot face has an effective diameter of .875". If that's not big enough you cannot enlarge it without cutting into the case; examine the second photo in post #17.

I would expect the Trail Tech adapter has a hex the same size as an OEM drain plug, which fits fine with an OEM crush washer (.87"⌀) on the clutch cover.

"Saul Goodman," Tom said homophonically.
 

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The biggest problem that I see with enlarging the test port size to accept an oversized TT adapter could be possible future service issue. One could not just order a standard oem part to replace the TT adapter if one chose to remove the temp probe & meter from this bike.
 

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True that, though it would be easy enough to run a 1/8npt tap into adapter and put a plug in it.

All in all, having drilled and tapped it oversize, I am of the opinion that drilling and tapping the test port cap to M6X1 and using the -001 sensor is a better option than adapting the cover to accept the M12 adapter and the -003 sensor.

The adapter will be here Monday and we'll see how the -003 sensor fits in the adpater and cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
True that, though it would be easy enough to run a 1/8npt tap into adapter and put a plug in it.

All in all, having drilled and tapped it oversize, I am of the opinion that drilling and tapping the test port cap to M6X1 and using the -001 sensor is a better option than adapting the cover to accept the M12 adapter and the -003 sensor.

The adapter will be here Monday and we'll see how the -003 sensor fits in the adpater and cover.
I plan to wait on ordering my Voyager and sensor until your final verdict. And I have my LT on the lift anyway and need to get cracking on that before I start working on the KLR.

Do you have the Voyager or the Pro model? Color displays are nice, but I can’t see it being worth the extra money and I don’t care about the buddy tracking feature. I just want a basic GPS that is readable in daylight and dark.
 

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The biggest problem that I see with enlarging the test port size to accept an oversized TT adapter could be possible future service issue. One could not just order a standard oem part to replace the TT adapter if one chose to remove the temp probe & meter from this bike.
I would think it not that hard to find a 1/8 x 28 BSPP plug to install into the adapter, but certainly not as clean as the factory plug. I generally also hate to mess up the OEM parts if at all possible.
 

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I plan to wait on ordering my Voyager and sensor until your final verdict. And I have my LT on the lift anyway and need to get cracking on that before I start working on the KLR.

Do you have the Voyager or the Pro model? Color displays are nice, but I can’t see it being worth the extra money and I don’t care about the buddy tracking feature. I just want a basic GPS that is readable in daylight and dark.
I have the Vapor. The Voyager looks good, but I am heavily vested in Garmin both from a hardware and maps/software standpoint. I've gotten down the learning curve to the point where I am asymptotic so there is not much motivating me to change.

"People always say that something that is hard has a steep learning curve, but they don't understand learning curves", Tom logged rhythmically.
 

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I have the Vapor. The Voyager looks good, but I am heavily vested in Garmin both from a hardware and maps/software standpoint. I've gotten down the learning curve to the point where I am asymptotic so there is not much motivating me to change.

"People always say that something that is hard has a steep learning curve, but they don't understand learning curves", Tom logged rhythmically.
I have three Garmins, but like the idea of having the GPS and sensors in one. And I hear that the Voyager is more readable in sunlight than the Garmins. I haven’t checked yet on the Voyager map costs. Maybe that will change my mind.
 

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I have been using Garmin since the mid-90's and have a GPS III, eMap, several Nuvis, and my zumo 660. I live and breathe Basecamp and have a lifetime subscription to maps for my zumo. The ability to plan multi-day trips on the computer and load them to the zumo is paramount. Couldn't live without it.

I know Garmin well and the many idiosyncrasies are, at this point, well understood and simply Germanic.

The Voyager seems like a great idea (and Stevie Wonder could see it's more readable than a zumo; anything is) but I just don't know what the trip planning capabilities are and whether or not you can upload .gpx files to it and download the same. I should look and learn.

The maps seem to be free, but I don't know if they are simply routable maps or if they contain data on rest stops, commercial establishments, fuel, eateries, etc. I don't know if the maps receive periodic updates as the Garmin maps do. Again, I should look and learn.

My zumo is a legacy product with no future firmware updates and, eventually, it will give me trouble with the newest Garmin mapsets. It is also going to fail someday. At that point, I will have to decide if I want to stick with Garmin or try something different.

As far as the color display goes I find it essential. At least on a GPS that I am glancing at on the fly. I rode for quite a few years with my eMap and it was difficult looking at a monochromatic display. Simply not enough contrast between map elements. When I switched to a Nuvi 750 it was a whole new world. Unfortunately, I shook that thing to death on the White Rim trail. I replaced it with the zumo 660.

Monochrome on the Vapor is not an issue because its data is static and in a known format, depending on what screen is selected.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I have been using Garmin since the mid-90's and have a GPS III, eMap, several Nuvis, and my zumo 660. I live and breathe Basecamp and have a lifetime subscription to maps for my zumo. The ability to plan multi-day trips on the computer and load them to the zumo is paramount. Couldn't live without it.

I know Garmin well and the many idiosyncrasies are, at this point, well understood and simply Germanic.

The Voyager seems like a great idea (and Stevie Wonder could see it's more readable than a zumo; anything is) but I just don't know what the trip planning capabilities are and whether or not you can upload .gpx files to it and download the same. I should look and learn.

The maps seem to be free, but I don't know if they are simply routable maps or if they contain data on rest stops, commercial establishments, fuel, eateries, etc. I don't know if the maps receive periodic updates as the Garmin maps do. Again, I should look and learn.

My zumo is a legacy product with no future firmware updates and, eventually, it will give me trouble with the newest Garmin mapsets. It is also going to fail someday. At that point, I will have to decide if I want to stick with Garmin or try something different.

As far as the color display goes I find it essential. At least on a GPS that I am glancing at on the fly. I rode for quite a few years with my eMap and it was difficult looking at a monochromatic display. Simply not enough contrast between map elements. When I switched to a Nuvi 750 it was a whole new world. Unfortunately, I shook that thing to death on the White Rim trail. I replaced it with the zumo 660.

Monochrome on the Vapor is not an issue because its data is static and in a known format, depending on what screen is selected.
It looks like the Voyager can use GPX, but it does not appear that the map can be updated. The Voyager Pro has downloadable maps, but appears to have no database for gas stations, food, etc. May have to do the Vapor and a Garmin.
 

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Your needs will drive the solution.

I need to spend some time understanding the Voyager.

The Vapor is a pretty fair unit, though the tach is problematic. I solved that; I think it needs to be directly connected to the coil through a resistance. Through fiddlin' about I determined what the resistance needed to be but I added a TT resistance wire to my order to see what they put in theirs.

I don't have a picture of what my cockpit looks like with the Garmin mounted, but it is fairly functional. You may have seen my dash; I'll see about getting a picture with the Garmin in place. Might be food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Your needs will drive the solution.

I need to spend some time understanding the Voyager.

The Vapor is a pretty fair unit, though the tach is problematic. I solved that; I think it needs to be directly connected to the coil through a resistance. Through fiddlin' about I determined what the resistance needed to be but I added a TT resistance wire to my order to see what they put in theirs.

I don't have a picture of what my cockpit looks like with the Garmin mounted, but it is fairly functional. You may have seen my dash; I'll see about getting a picture with the Garmin in place. Might be food for thought.
Got this back from Trail Tech:

“There is no map in the original Voyager. It will only display GPX files that you download into it.

The Voyager Pro base map will only show topography, streets, highways, and major forest service roads. It will not display any other information like fuel or restaurants.”

So, looks like another Garmin for me. I am not into heavy off-roading at my age and that seems to be the design target for the Voyager. Having the database for fuel, food, hotels, etc., is handy so I probably will stay with the devil I know. >:)
 

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Comparing the -001 and the -003 sensors.


The sensor's tip remains inside the adapter.


Installed in the case.


Not visible in the oil passageway.


Compare and contrast.


Given that you have to have the ability to set up a large piece on a drill press or be fairly adept at free-handing stuff I don't like this method. I think drilling and tapping the OEM test port cap is a better way to go. That part costs only $5 and, even though there is not a lot of meat left in the cap once the M6 is tapped, it's not that hard to hit it dead center. The cap only needs to be torqued enough to hold itself in and the whole shebang is never going to see more than 60psi so it isn't going to bust.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
...

Given that you have to have the ability to set up a large piece on a drill press or be fairly adept at free-handing stuff I don't like this method. I think drilling and tapping the OEM test port cap is a better way to go. That part costs only $5 and, even though there is not a lot of meat left in the cap once the M6 is tapped, it's not that hard to hit it dead center. The cap only needs to be torqued enough to hold itself in and the whole shebang is never going to see more than 60psi so it isn't going to bust.
Nice work! It looks like the skinny sensor is the way to go as it may even respond faster having the tip in the oil path a little bit. I need to go back in the thread as I can’t remember if you showed a pic of the finished plug once drilled. Did you spotface the OEM plug to make a sealing surface for the sensor? Is the sensor wire rigidly attached to the sensor? If that is the case, it appears you need to keep the wire disconnected from the display so that it can rotate as you tighten the sensor. Or does the sensor itself rotate within the brass body so that you can screw it in without twisting the sensor wire?
 

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When I tapped the OEM plug it was perfectly perpendicular to the top of the plug. The M6 is sealed with a soft washer. Other than chamfering the threaded hole I did nothing to the head of the plug. If I were using a metal crush washer there I would have spotfaced it just on principle. I don't think I have a picture of it anywhere.

The Vapor has short pigtails on it for each function. The leads on the sensors are plenty long enough to reach to the Vapor. I chopped the oil temp sensor's lead off to about 40 cm and made an extension cable to go between the two pigtails. I used the same connectors that Trail Tech uses, even though I don't like them (JWPFs - shudder). The 40 cm pigtail is long enough that I can tie it up on the frame's down tube (so that the JWPFs are secured and not swinging in the breeze) and it allows the sensor to be screwed into the OEM plug.

Leaving the sensor's lead at the original length was a problem for me because of the routing and the need to secure it along the route. If I hadn't chopped it off then I'd have to take half the bike apart everytime I needed to unscrew it, which is far too often given my propensity for messing around with clutches, kickstarters, primary ratios, and oil pressure tomfoolery. All of that seems to be behind me now (Devil, get thee behind me. And don't push.) but the configuration remains.
 

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I’m out on a ride around NorCal and have only my phone to search the forum, so I’m necromancing an old post.

Rode up I5 yesterday and noted some temps that were pretty consistent as I was riding due to the constant speed and flat terrain. There are no devices mounted to the engine to attempt to raise temps; everything is stock except for the T-Bob 2. Notes were taken at gas fill-ups

Ambient. Head. Oil. Rad out. Speed.
60. 195. 185. 165. 70
65. 195. 188. 165. 70
70. 196. 193. 170. 70

I am becoming more and more convinced that watt-man’s air dam is the best approach to raise oil temps. I’m going to build one and test it later in the winter with data logging.

Hoping for higher temps on the return trip to see the effect.
 

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In Quincy. Ambients have run 40-60, oil has never been over 173. Coolant numbers normal.

Slow And fast twisties, a lot of off-road, some highway.
 

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I’m out on a ride around NorCal and have only my phone to search the forum, so I’m necromancing an old post.

Rode up I5 yesterday and noted some temps that were pretty consistent as I was riding due to the constant speed and flat terrain. There are no devices mounted to the engine to attempt to raise temps; everything is stock except for the T-Bob 2. Notes were taken at gas fill-ups

Ambient. Head. Oil. Rad out. Speed.
60. 195. 185. 165. 70
65. 195. 188. 165. 70
70. 196. 193. 170. 70

I am becoming more and more convinced that watt-man’s air dam is the best approach to raise oil temps. I’m going to build one and test it later in the winter with data logging.

Hoping for higher temps on the return trip to see the effect.
Thank you for posting the temperature data. I'm surprised that there's such a wide disparity between water temperature and oil temperature.

In my mind, the oil temperature is the critical one. A thermobob for the oil to get temps in the 190-220F range would be beneficial.

Jason
 
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