[PT-13Pilot]

New Year’s Day ride.

 

[maverick9611]

if ive done the 692 kit and oil burning is gone. should i still do the banjo and oil filter oil mods also?

 

[Tom Schmitz]

if ive done the 692 kit and oil burning is gone. should i still do the banjo and oil filter oil mods also?

I'd say no. Those mods are designed to move oil from the crank/conrod/piston, where it can't be controlled by the poor OEM rings and the two few/too small oil return holes in the OEM piston, over to the transmission/cams. The idea is that there is more than enough oil thrown up onto the piston and cylinder to do the job, so stealing some and sending it over to the trans/cams leaves enough oil behind on the cylinder walls to do the job, but it is an amount of oil that the OEM rings/piston can handle.

If your 692's rings are controlling the oil well then there is no reason to get after any mods to help them control the oil that they are already controlling well.

Well, that was a mouthful.

 

[maverick9611]

thanx tom

 

[PT-13Pilot]

I know I’m going to leave the mods in place after the 685.

 

[pdwestman]

if ive done the 692 kit and oil burning is gone. should i still do the banjo and oil filter oil mods also?

maverick9611,
I'll suggest that you may perform all or part of the oil control mods. Specifically the 1st banjo bolt by the starter motor.
Better yet, the 1st banjo bolt & the cylinder head banjo bolt. Or even better yet, all 3 banjo bolts.

IMO, the more oil flow thru the others parts of the KLR engine the better. Kawasaki did it themselves, on the KLX250's / 300's & 650's. The only Kawasaki models to ever us the tiny holed banjo bolts were the KLR250, 600 & 650 plus the KSF250 atv which was based on the KLR250 engine.

Or 3 banjo bolts & a #40 / 2.49mm / .098inch crankshaft oil control orifice in the oil Filter cap, for simplicity.
I've tested clear down to #46 / 2.06mm / .081inch crankshaft oil control orifice. (My 3000 mile oil change [BSL #4] wear metals were still less ppm per 1k traveled than the Blackstone UA's with 2100 mile average oil changes.)


How tight is the case around the outer steel end cap of your oil filter cavity? Maybe reduce the height of that ledge from the oil inlet port at 5:00 upto the 2:00 area by about 1mm?

Or if you are up to it the 100% oil filtration is pretty simple to do if the clutch cover is ever off.

And at least lapping the cold oil Pressure Relief Valve is not hard to do. One can simply use the existing spring, like Kawasaki still does in the KLX series. up thru 2013 at least (16130-1001)
I see a new part number for the newer 2104+ KLX250's, part #16130-0002. I wonder if it has a lower set point or better sealing?

Thanks for the vote of confidence, PT-13Pilot. KLRChris also used the 4 basic oil control mods on his 60HP 685 engine.

 

[maverick9611]

what are the banjo part #'s again?

 

[maverick9611]

drats, i recently had clutch cover off recently doing upgraded clutch springs

 

[pdwestman]

The best write up is on souperdoo.com. https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff that i think about/paul-westman-s-mods-to-fight-oil-burning

 

[maverick9611]

The best write up is on souperdoo.com. https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff that i think about/paul-westman-s-mods-to-fight-oil-burning

yup readin it right now😎
i have banjo part #'s

 

[PT-13Pilot]

Paul, glad to try this! It did help. And I agree with you’re reasoning. The bearing supported crank end could probably run on 2 cycle mix passing through and be fine. Years of running 2 strokes on land and water has proved that to me. The top end that slides and spins? More oil please, for sure. And more to the tranny? Yup, sign me up there too.
Other than adding oil and keeping an eye on it, I wouldn’t hesitate to ride it to either coast and back. I kinda want to keep running it just to see. But since it’s winter and I have the kit, might as well do it. Also hate the thought of roasting the engine and or head on a 200 mile interstate run should it start to burn a lot more. Hoping for a 10k+ year this season.

 

[PT-13Pilot]

Paul and all......
The burner engine and oil mods will continue on. After a busy winter and a family death last month, the 685 tear down and redo got put on hold. I’m at 45,547 miles now. Last year I put over 9k on it with predictable oil burn and it hasn’t gotten any worse in that time. So same planned for this year, 2k oil changes and ride on. If it lasts another season, great! If not, I’ll deal with it when the time comes. Just did the valves, everything is clean and shiny up top. Guess we’ll see how far an 08 burner will reliably go. Seems most have locked up from lack of oil or got rebuilt by my kind of mileage. Mine still starts and runs perfectly. Hoping for a 10k+ season!

 

[Tom Schmitz]

My condolences for your family's loss.

Keep up the good work and remember that oil is cheap!

 

[PT-13Pilot]

Thanks Tom!
Lost my mom, and it’s been a hard adjustment for sure. While I’m trying to get my head back on straight, I’ve got all the other winter maintenance and mods done, may throw the visor down and take a trip on it to get right with the world again.
And all the stuff I fly and work on uses plenty of oil, so the little thumper drinkin a bit doesn’t bother me in the least. Ha!
I’ll keep an eye on the oil, and bet she runs a good while longer.

 

[pdwestman]

Sorry for your loss also, PT-13Pilot.

Ride Safe & Travel Far.

 

[campfire]

Sorry about your mom, always hurts for a long time. My dad has been gone for almost 12 years, still miss telling him about my travels.

My 2008 starting using oil around 22k-26k miles, and the long highway trips used the most. Just made a habit of carrying a quart with me, and topped it off every other fuel stop & checked it every stop.

And a good ride always helps clear the head.

 

[Uncle Dick]

13 pilot, sorry about the loss of your mother. I’ve read the thread front to back and am rooting for the 685 kit. I’m curious about one thing. Is the spark plug in your engine fouled from all the oil burning?

 

[PT-13Pilot]

I’ve put 10k on it since I bought it. I changed the plug not long ago with about 7500 on it just because I had the tank off. It’s dry, never fouled, and other than having some dry deposits on it, have never had a problem with it fouling plugs. Borescope of the piston shows some deposits, but nothing excessive or troublesome. I’ve never had any running issues with it burning oil.

 

[PT-13Pilot]

Well guys, my oil burn experiment is on hold. On May 31st I had a bad accident that almost ended me. Out riding with a friend on his DR 650 for an afternoon of backroading and trails. We were heading home on a 2 lanes highway, with me following him. I hit a pit bull. I have no memory of it. But the bike flipped and I believe landed on my left side. Only way I could have got damaged the way I did. Still in a wheel chair but getting better every day. Thanks to some good luck and the gear I was wearing, I survived. The bike actually doesn’t look too bad and will be fixed. Side cases and crash bars took the brunt. I’m 46 and the first bike accident I’ve ever had.
when able I’ll better access the bike, I’ll need a few cowling pieces, rear brake pedal bracket and some other things. If anyone is parting a gen 2, let me know.
Just glad to be here and can’t wait to ride again!
The experiment will continue......

 

[maverick9611]

sorry to hear. ill b thinking bout ya